Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 358
Think the post from Martin (just above yours) gives the answerSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
29th Jan 2021 11:23 pm
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18538
Possibly the wrong sensors in the right box?
Has happened with plenty of genuine LR parts before.06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
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30th Jan 2021 12:24 am
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18538
Double check that you have the right parts in the right place - the TSB says which sensor part number goes where.
From the TSB it would appear you shouldn’t be removing the place, you have the type of chassis bracket as in Figure 2.06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
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30th Jan 2021 12:35 am
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18538
In normal use the arm does not need to pass the screw heads, its range of motion is between the screw heads. I think you have either got the wrong sensor (so a short or long arm sensor in the wrong place) or the arm not pointing in the right direction to start with.06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
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30th Jan 2021 1:00 am
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18538
Or, of course, that the range of motion that actually occurs when the rod is connected to the suspension arm means the clash won’t happen.
If you can get a photo from a bit further back that would help see how everything is oriented.06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
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30th Jan 2021 1:09 am
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18538
Me again.
Can see now we are at the LH rear, and the sensor fitted appears to be the correct one - in first photo the part number starts “B” and it’s a long arm sensor. Assuming this is still fitted there, have you tried to fit the rod to the upper arm peg?
Hopefully, with that attached, then as I said earlier, the range of motion of the arm should be (looking at photo 1 again) DOWN away from the screw.
How have you got the hub supported, is it hugely over (or under) extended.06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
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30th Jan 2021 1:25 am
Kenny57
Member Since: 12 Apr 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 173
Harry365 wrote:
I have further countersunk the bracket to ensure the heads are totally flush and the difference is negligible. Simple put, the issue lies solely with the bracket; it simply should not be there. I've filed down the screw as much as I can.
Definitely something not quite right there Harry. This is a picture of the old sensor fitted to my car showing the gap to the arm, then a picture of the new sensor I have for if it goes wrong. You can see that although the bracket is going to make the gap from arm to screw smaller, it should still clear.
From memory the new sensor also uses machine screws with a slightly lower profile head than the old "self tapper" ones. I've got the new type fitted on the front no problems (would show but it's impossible to photograph being at 90 deg.
Anyway:
30th Jan 2021 8:03 am
Harry365
Member Since: 25 Aug 2018
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 373
Thanks very much for the replies guys.
I am absolutely certain they are the correct part numbers. Whilst I do not have the fig 2 bracket, at least not in the rear left, if I absolutely must, I can drill a new hole. Quite a big job as I would have to remove the strut to do so.
I think the best thing to do right now is move onto one of the other wheels and check that this issue isn't just an isolated incident.
I had expected the range of motion to pass the screw head but of course with the wheel off and ARB linkage removed, perhaps the arm is a lot lower than it would ever go in real world. However I am frequently off-road and not uncommon for the vehicle to articulate fully. The odd pass of the screwhead however would unlikely result in any damage, as long as it isn't happening 100s of times per mile. Just another thing to add to the list of things I think about when I driving along.
Kenny, thanks for the pics. The 5-6mm gap on the new sensor has to accommodate the thickness of the chassis mount and the screw head. The old sensor has a gap of 5-6mm plus the thickness of the mount, so 9mm? It would look to me like you would go on to face the same issue as I.
I will report back with results from the front 2 and rear right. If the issue is isolated to just this corner, the task of drilling a new hole wont seem so tedious.
30th Jan 2021 1:41 pm
Harry365
Member Since: 25 Aug 2018
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 373
Just to show, worse than fouling occuring on the extreme end of things, with the suspension in raised mode (~54cm arch to hub), the arm is resting over the screw head.
30th Jan 2021 1:59 pm
Harry365
Member Since: 25 Aug 2018
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 373
Well this is the rear right. Because the chassis mount is reversed, it would be possible to rotate the sensor 90 degrees however I would need to extend the cables to make this happen...
As you can see, already the gap is very small between the arm and the screw, and that's before the 3mm bracket.
Quite simply, for what ever reason, these sensors do not fit my vehicle.
I am still extremely confused that no one else has this issue. I can only at this point assume that either people don't notice or don't care.
I'm not even going to look at the front until I've got the means to lengthen the cables or find original parts.
30th Jan 2021 8:27 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
I would hazard a guess the height sensor itself is a rare failure point, hence no real info out there.
I reckon at least 10 of our previous cars had height sensors, either for the susp itself or the xenon headlamps, never had one fail.
I still have the kit of four sensors for the D3 that were for sale a few years ago just in case!
Edit can you not fit countersunk screws?
30th Jan 2021 9:27 pm
Kenny57
Member Since: 12 Apr 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 173
Harry365 wrote:
Kenny, thanks for the pics. The 5-6mm gap on the new sensor has to accommodate the thickness of the chassis mount and the screw head. The old sensor has a gap of 5-6mm plus the thickness of the mount, so 9mm? It would look to me like you would go on to face the same issue as I..
Admittedly its fine margins, but I make it that I have about 3mm gap and the plate on the new sensor is about 2.5mm so it still misses by about a fag paper.... might I comment that your brackets look quite rusty. Maybe a clean up might help a little.
30th Jan 2021 11:23 pm
Harry365
Member Since: 25 Aug 2018
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 373
I'm just gonna chop this off the sensor which will give me around the same clearance as the original part.
31st Jan 2021 1:26 am
Harry365
Member Since: 25 Aug 2018
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 373
Just to add, I cleaned up the rust on the mating faces as I thought the same; theres definitely no additional thickness due to rust. Finding some alternative screws would be a nice idea but unfortunately can't go anywhere. I think half an hour with the Dremel will have to be the fix. Would have been nice for a straight swap... of all the things to be an issue.
Thanks for the help, everyone.
31st Jan 2021 1:30 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8187
Open up the old sensor and see if it is safe inside to drill and tap or use a self tapping screw on the new sensor in the position you need it, you could even do it on the face in the photo if it is possible.
It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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off the sensor which will give me around the same clearance as the original part.
