Member Since: 29 Dec 2019
Location: Brighton
Posts: 14
Steering angle help!
Please can someone help with a couple problems..
I’ve recently changed the lower steering column due to the UJ seizing, changed it recalibrated the SAS no problems after that, I also replaced the O rings on the power steering rack due to them leaking (no leaks now) refilled the system and bled it. I’ve now recently started to have problems steering related, I’ve glued the plastic ring onto the steering column as it was spinning, recalibrated after, drove it then ended up with the suspension lowered, hdc, no special program warnings..
currently have 20-30mm play on the steering wheel with no power on, (not sure how to tighten that up?)
I’ve reset the sas so the wheels are straight and the steering wheel is straight.. but then when I drive down the road the steering wheel is sitting at around 50 degrees to the right and that’s driving in a straight line.
I’ve pulled the codes (only have an icarsoft 2)
VDCM- C1B00- steering angle sensor
U0428- invalid data from steering angle sensor
TCCM - U0126 lost comns with SAS
RLCM - U0416- invalid data from VDCM
ATCM - U0416 - invalid data from VDCM
IP - U0166 lost coms with aux heater control
P0000 not DTC description
ABS - U0428 invalid data from SAS
C1B00 steering angle sensor
I’ve taken the lower steering column back out and checked it no play in that at all reinstalled and recalibrated, I’ve checked the SAS no play on the plastic ring that’s glued to the shaft, checked the rack no leaks.
If anyone can give me an inclination on what’s going on that’ll be really appreciated
Thanks guys 🙏🏻
3rd May 2020 3:08 pm
Alphamale
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 496
It's not unusual after fitting an aftermarket lower steering shaft for the steering wheel to be off centre. Mine was the same last year. you'll have to get the alignment done to get it set right.
To set your SAS correctly you need to position the steering so the wheels are straight ahead and the steering wheel is in the position it would be when driving straight, then re set it again when the alignment's done.
As for the 20 - 30mm play, I had that problem after fitting a new lower steering shaft and spent the next year trying to find the cause (it was quite dangerous, made overtaking dodgy, driving at speed difficult and I lost confidence in the car). As the lower shaft was new I never suspected it and proceeded to change every other component in the steering system including a new rack just there in March. In the end (after spending £100s on unnecessary parts) I finally checked the "new" shaft (which incidentally was not an original LR one, but still under warranty) and found that the outer and inner shafts had 5º of slack when twisted back and forth (this problem was not visible on the car, as the shaft is buried in the bowls of the engine bay). In my case 5º equated to 50mm slack at the steering wheel. (I checked the new replacement, from the same source as the returned one, and found it had slack in it 'out of the box' so opted to pay £60 more on genuine and there was no play in it at all)
With a new genuine shaft now fitted, the previously adjusted steering wheel alignment needs redone and there's no steering free-play, it's like a new car, well the steering system is anyway. I just have to get used to it after driving for a year and adapting to the old setup.
3rd May 2020 6:33 pm
Disco-jon
Member Since: 29 Dec 2019
Location: Brighton
Posts: 14
Alpha, thanks for the advice and help!
So sounds like I’ve been calibrating the sensor wrong I’ll have a play with that tomorrow and see if I sort it with your advice!
Yeah I’ve fitted an aftermarket non OEM part, when I took it out i didn’t think there was much of a wobble if not any.. now undecided do I just change it for an OEM and have done with it!
When you changed for the genuine steering column did all the slack in there steering wheel go? And was it with power on or off?
I think I’ve needed the alignment doing anyways but I need to fit my new track rod ends so that’ll be good timing on both parts! The play in mine I’m not to worried about but if I can get it tighter then that’ll give me a bit more security when laning.
Cheers
3rd May 2020 9:54 pm
Alphamale
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 496
Disco-jon, when I looked at the replacement one I found a small bit of slack, maybe no more than 2º or so. (by my reckoning that's possibly 20mm at the wheel)
I should also mention that when I took out the faulty one the grease packing between the sections of the shaft had exuded past the grey rubber seal, that was itself out of shape. I think the heat from the exhaust had caused this, despite all the heat shielding. When I got the genuine one I found that the packing grease was thicker and white (but absolutely no movement) whereas the returned one was dark with the consistency of thick honey.
The slack in the steering wheel was present wether or not the engine was on. To be sure of where the problem is, start at the track rod ends and make sure they are OK (you're about to do that), while you're there check the inner track rod ball joints (the ones in the gaiters). if there's any indication of wear change them. Now check the steering shaft components from the steering wheel down and don't forget the joint just above the foot peddles (just to be sure everything is secure). if every thing is OK then that only leaves the rack and the new shaft.
If you get the shaft out again (I know it's a PITA), put the UJ in a vice and a set of vice-grips on the top clamp at 90º to it. Now see if you can move the grips to-and-fro, remember if you get 3º or 4º movement in the length of the grips that will be 20 - 40mm at the steering wheel and no possibility of steering in a straight line.
3rd May 2020 11:02 pm
Disco-jon
Member Since: 29 Dec 2019
Location: Brighton
Posts: 14
Thanks for the information alpha 👍🏻 I’ll start with the track rod ends then work my way up! First Land Rover I’ve ever owned so everything is new to me!
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