johnthomas
Member Since: 21 Nov 2022
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 17
  
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| tailgate switch not working |
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Hi all,
I have exactly the same problem on my D4, tailgate rubber press switch not working, but works fine if you press the button on the remote fob.
I did the actuator change with a ford part thinking this would fix it, but nothing, same fault. Put it on a diagnostic code reader, and zero faults listed (assuming there would be a fault stored that needed to be cleared in order to make the ECU send the signal to the switch again).
So now i'm really puzzled - apart from the obvious 'send it to the dealership', what else can I do to fix this or has anyone experienced the same and got it working?
TIA
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 8th Aug 2023 9:33 am |
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Johnny V
Member Since: 15 Mar 2019
Location: Daventry
Posts: 56
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Hi,
I discovered a wire had broken between the internal connector block and the outside switch - wanted to take the number plate light/ tailgate switch unit off but the hex screws are totally seized - removed the internal trim and by putting a finger on the broken wire through the hole where the handle/switch was, and then gently pulling on the other six in turn found the broken one - pulled it through and then spliced in a new one and pushed it back, connected up to handle/switch and all is good - hell of a fiddle but got there in the end - basically the old wire had rusted through due to water ingress and then continual flexing.
Yours may not be the same problem but worth checking (you could also use a multimeter to check wires - there are 6, two for tailgate handle and four for the two number plate lights - I found that 3 hands would have been useful) ?
Good luck
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| 13th Aug 2023 12:27 pm |
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johnthomas
Member Since: 21 Nov 2022
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 17
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Thanks for the reply Johnny...I have exactly the same issue with those 4 hex screws holding the tailgate light/handle in place, they just turn around without coming out, so i'm guessing there is a captive nut they screw into that is held in place in a plastic housing, so the whole lot is spinning.
Only answer is to drill the heads off and hope it pulls apart to get the remaining thread and nut out and replace with new 
I will trace the wires and do a continuity check...by any chance do you remember the location of the internal connector block you referred to?
MTIA.
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| 21st Aug 2023 1:43 pm |
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Johnny V
Member Since: 15 Mar 2019
Location: Daventry
Posts: 56
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Hi,
Yes - the connector block is directly behind the unit but on the inside behind the trim.
I have added a youtube link to a video that shows how/where - I found I had to cut the the outer sleeve on the wiring to access the individual wires, doing a continuity check was my original plan but found I needed three hands (one for each meter wire and one to hold meter + you are trying to look inside the catch hole) - hence the 'feel' test.
The video shows how you should be able to do it if the Hex screws would undo (i did get one out / 2 siezed / 1 like yours went round and round)
Good luck
Jon
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| 21st Aug 2023 5:50 pm |
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johnthomas
Member Since: 21 Nov 2022
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 17
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| Tailgate won't open from switch - FIXED! |
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So, I managed to fix the issue thanks to the replies and suggestions on what to look for.
In my case (many thanks to Johnny V) there was a broken wire to the switch that was well and truly hidden behind the tailgate light/switch handle assembly.
I ordered a new switch on the interweb (that had the additional 2 connectors for the lamps) that arrived promptly, removed the plastic trim inside the upper tailgate, disconnected the grey connector that the switch and lamps connect to, plugged in the new one et voila, it worked!
Before all that though, and this is how I knew I had a wiring issue, I disconnected the grey connector and used a wire to jump the connectors that go to the switch which did actuate the switch...so I knew it was working from the connector block to the actuator, meaning the problem could only lie in the wiring for the switch.
Now the fun and games started when it came to replacing the switch...only 1 of the torx bolts came out, the others just span around not coming out of the captive nut in the assembly. I had to drill out the 3 remaining bolts and hope that I could remove the thread that was left once off.
Well, that didn't happen...drilling out the thread didn't work as once the drill bit into the bolt, the captive nut part just spun. No dice! In the end I had to take off the outer part of the assembly (the bit with the logo on) and drill behind the nut to expose the rear and punch it out of the plastic. Thankfully, this did not result in any damage and I got all four captive nuts out. Now I had to replace them with something else, so I went to my local hardware store and found M5 threaded inserts. These have a very course external thread, designed to hold fast in wood I imagine, but to get them in was actually quite simple, I just heated them up with a blow torch (only took a few seconds) and while hot, screwed them in. They melted their way into place and when cool, held firm, simples. New stainless screws and washers later and the whole thing was back together and working perfectly...
All that drama for a tiny broken wire!
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| 18th Sep 2023 5:20 pm |
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