Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4485
Oil Pump Check - how much to dismantle?
I've got a full timing belt kit to do soon, but this morning I want to check the oil pump, to see if the early or later type, so If I need one I can get it before I do the belt job.
The Disco is 2007, but had a new engine from Land Rover in Oct 2010. Could it be the later pump?
Any way, how much stuff do I need to take off, to view the oil pump? I've got the fan off, and the aux belt, but would prefer not to drain the water, as I need the car later.
this mornings effort so far-
Click image to enlarge
Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
23rd Sep 2017 11:01 am
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
contary to what some say your need to remove the front cover to check it properly
all 3 pulleys off , top aux belt tensioner ,and coolant hoses, then remove all the front cover fixing bolts and pull out the way and check
ps you shouldnt lose to much coolant if your careful
Last edited by geoff. on 23rd Sep 2017 11:08 am. Edited 1 time in total
23rd Sep 2017 11:07 am
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4485
Cheers Geoff. So I can't see without letting the water out? Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
23rd Sep 2017 11:08 am
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
just be care full and you won't lose to much
23rd Sep 2017 11:08 am
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4485
Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
23rd Sep 2017 11:09 am
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4485
This is what I found. Later type pump I think? Geoff.?
Didn't have to take off the smaller water hose.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
23rd Sep 2017 12:14 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
23rd Sep 2017 12:18 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4485
I'm tempted to do the belt now I'm so far in, but I dont have a locking pin kit. Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
Member Since: 23 Dec 2013
Location: under the car
Posts: 402
as much as I rememeber those drills need to be a little less than 6 mmAchim
own garage certified LR tech
Disco 2 TD5 MY 2001 - gone but still driven by another owner
Defender 110 TD5 driving me bananas with all faults
Disco 3 TDV 6 HSE MY 2005 gone @280.000 km
Disco 4 SDV 6 HSE MY 2012
23rd Sep 2017 4:08 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20795
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4485
I thought the locking pin kit would be more extensive than two pins! Good, I'll turn a couple up at work this week, get a new aux belt guide pulley (bit of bearing noise found) and do that belt kit soon.
Thanks Geoff for the chat earlier, very useful.
All back together now, running sweetly. Now I'm less worried about the oil pump!Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
23rd Sep 2017 5:12 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10602
Locking kits aren't expensive on eBay should u wish to remove starter and lock crank
23rd Sep 2017 7:29 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4485
Just ordered one, not even worth me turning the pins myself!Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
23rd Sep 2017 7:50 pm
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
I found it easier to drain all the coolant out of the engine, capture it in a bucket and place to the side, and when you refill the engine you know how much has to go back in. If you don't already know, there is a procedure for clearing all air locks in the coolant system, if you don't get the correct volume of coolant back in you can risk overheating the top of the block.
like Disco Mikey says, all you need is two correct sized drill bits to lock the top cams, and the bottom crank can be marked with paint marks (even though when I did it, I made a simple piece of flat bar to lock the crank into position) . Everyone stresses out about a belt change, but I found it very straight forward, and was not as hard as replacing EGR valves.
Make sure you have a good calibrated low torque wrench, no shortage of people who have had problems on this forum when things have broken at a later date, which most likely are linked to over tensioning of bolts.
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