2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
4th Sep 2017 9:19 pm
simonwood4000
Member Since: 14 May 2016
Location: surrey
Posts: 46
OK!!! ha ha
So what do i need to do!?
4th Sep 2017 9:21 pm
JMack
Member Since: 02 Aug 2014
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 1517
You need something from this page and someone who know what they are doing to fit it/them and then 4 wheel alignment done.
Your failure says one bush, but often it's easier/better/cheaper to change the whole arm complete with 3 new bushes. Reasons being that 1) there are 3 bushes on each arm and if 1 is worn the other 2 may not be far from being worn as well, and there is an arm on each side so if one side has a problem the other side may not be far from becoming a problem as well. 2) the bushes often seize in the arm and can take a lot of time and effort to remove them then fit a new one in its place. Repeat times 6 and you will be far cheaper fitting complete new arms.
Other decision is which arms or bushes to buy. That may depend on your budget or how long you plan to keep the vehicle for etc. I'd probably go for the arms with Lemforder bushes and 3 year warranty.
6th Sep 2017 9:59 pm
Chawks
Member Since: 10 Aug 2016
Location: Dorset
Posts: 89
Time to sell it on ....I'll give you £1200 for it, well it doesn't have an MOT
A little more detail in your profile, currently "Surrey", might enable us to direct you to an appropriate "indy" who will resolve your issues economically.
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
6th Sep 2017 10:34 pm
highlands
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5098
Just did my rear upper arms.
And front lower arms.
And stabiliser arms and ARB drop links (F&R)
And track rod inners and ends
(and rear brake lines up to the centre exhaust box)
If I had bought some extra Bosch metal reciprocating saw blades in advance and just changed the front arms rather than polybushing them it wouldn't have taken all that long.
What I was most pleased about was I did all the suspension alignment by eye afterwards and IIRC the hunter alignment only showed one measurement out of tolerance and even that not by much.
That, and I forgot to press DSC after filling up on the way and didn't get any suspension or steering 'bongs'Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
7th Sep 2017 12:18 am
highlands
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5098
Even if the brake lines from the rear toward the front of the car are OK I'd still put in new flexis and the metal joiner as the total cost of them is IIRC less than 50 notes and the brake line has to be split to get the arms changed anyway.Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
7th Sep 2017 12:20 am
SouthernWombat
Member Since: 30 Aug 2014
Location: Devon
Posts: 224
I have a similar advisory on my D3, including rusty rear brake pipe and rubber going on propshaft.
Look about, as Island4x4 and JGS4x4 are cheaper than ADV even with the discount. Also consider replacing with RRS as they are the same but with stronger bushes - so I am informed!
7th Sep 2017 2:10 pm
DrRobH
Member Since: 10 Oct 2015
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 927
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