Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
Removing Fixed Tow Bar bolts from chassis
Hi,
Just bought the superb looking Tow Trust TL1.
Looks like an easy job to fit... however... I have bolts where the arms bolt to the chassis and the are rusted tight. Was going to find someone with a ramp and grinder to remove them. However I’m wondering if there is some metal spacer inside that will mean I drop the spacer into the chassis and will have a rattle for ever!
Any advice please. I guess they’ve been there for 12 years!
Thank you2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
2022 Tesla Model Y LR... almost Carpathian Grey
Previously : 2005 TDV6 SE Auto, Cairns Blue (288K) - ours for 16 years
28th Jun 2017 9:52 pm
Luapno
Member Since: 27 Sep 2013
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 874
there is a metal tube that is between the chassis, you should (if you are very careful) be able to grind the nut off and then move the bolt down (with the tube still on) into the slot to remove it.
When fitting my tow bar I dropped the tube down the chassis rail but managed to fish it back out with a loop of welding wire (took some time and a lot of swearing ! )When you are dead, you do not know you are dead. All of the pain is felt by others. The same thing happens when you are stupid.
28th Jun 2017 10:43 pm
Alphamale
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 497
If I remember correctly, when you look at the bolts securing the bracket to the chassis, it looks as though they pass right through, but don't be fooled.
There are 2 separate bolts/nuts connecting to a central spacer and you only need to work on the bolts on the same side as the towing bracket (try to keep the nut on the other side secured tightly) if the nut comes off you'll have to retighten it when you realise the bolt will not pull out, because it's still held by the internal spacer and just rotates and remains in place.
I'd try soaking with WD40 and a little heat from a blow torch before resorting to a grinder you might find the bolt is not so rusted to the spacer.
Last edited by Alphamale on 28th Jun 2017 10:48 pm. Edited 1 time in total
28th Jun 2017 10:45 pm
Luapno
Member Since: 27 Sep 2013
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 874
Sorry should have said my experience relates to a D4 not D3 (not sure if there are differences)When you are dead, you do not know you are dead. All of the pain is felt by others. The same thing happens when you are stupid.
28th Jun 2017 10:47 pm
John C
Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
Alphamale wrote:
If I remember correctly, when you look at the bolts securing the bracket to the chassis, it looks as though they pass right through, but don't be fooled.
There are 2 separate bolts/nuts connecting to a central spacer and you only need to work on the bolts on the same side as the towing bracket (try to keep the nut on the other side secured tightly) if the nut comes off you'll have to retighten it when you realise the bolt will not pull out, because it's still held by the internal spacer and just rotates and remains in place.
I'd try soaking with WD40 and a little heat from a blow torch before resorting to a grinder you might find the bolt is not so rusted to the spacer.
Thanks very much both of you - much appreciated.
The spacer note is dead helpful - thank you. Any thoughts as to how I remove the existing bolts and the spacer as I have a new nut and bolt for the new tow pack. From what you've said it sounds impossible? Unless I've misunderstood?
Thanks again,
John2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
2022 Tesla Model Y LR... almost Carpathian Grey
Previously : 2005 TDV6 SE Auto, Cairns Blue (288K) - ours for 16 years
28th Jun 2017 10:53 pm
Luapno
Member Since: 27 Sep 2013
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 874
not impossible, just make sure you don't let the bolt drop so that the spacer slides off within the chassis rail. The hole that the bolt goes through is bigger on one side to enable you to put the spacer through. You will see when you get under the car. Its a little difficult to describe but should be clear when you lookWhen you are dead, you do not know you are dead. All of the pain is felt by others. The same thing happens when you are stupid.
28th Jun 2017 10:56 pm
John C
Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
Fantastic - thanks - do you know which side has the bigger hole? I can't tell - I guess that means I grind off the other side.
Thank you again!2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
2022 Tesla Model Y LR... almost Carpathian Grey
Previously : 2005 TDV6 SE Auto, Cairns Blue (288K) - ours for 16 years
28th Jun 2017 11:03 pm
Luapno
Member Since: 27 Sep 2013
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 874
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 497
Really not sure, but if it was me I'd see if the new bolt was the same size and thread pitch as the old one (that is if you do get the bolt out) and cut it down to the required length.
If you do have to resort to cutting you're going to end up just cutting off the head but still the body of the bolt will remain, you'll get the bracket off OK, but everything else will be held in place and you'll have to drill it out or try bolt removers such as these http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-extractor-5-piece-set/18643.
If I wasn't doing a 200ml trip tomorrow I'd have a quick look at mine to check I've remembered correctly but I'm sure I have and there's bound to be someone else on who can confirm it.
28th Jun 2017 11:10 pm
John C
Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
Thanks very much 2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
2022 Tesla Model Y LR... almost Carpathian Grey
Previously : 2005 TDV6 SE Auto, Cairns Blue (288K) - ours for 16 years
1 side will just look like a nut, this is in fact the bolt that goes into the sleeve & should be on the inside edge of the chassis.
The other side will have a threaded extension (part of the spacer) protruding from the nut you can see, this is the side that drops into a cut out slot in the chassis to ensure the spacer sits level.
Personally i'd carry on using the spacers fitted if you can free off the inner bolt, if you loosen both then a set of mole grips on the threaded extension bit works a treat & stops the whole thing dropping inside the chassis section.
On my MY06 the sleeves were fixed to the chassis & couldn't be removed
Hope that helpsPaul.
06 Java Black HSE - gone
12 Baltic Blue HSE - gone
15 Fuji HSE Lux
Club Biscuits, mmmm nice!
Traxide/Luna hybrid & Yellow top
Some Prospeed bits
+ some other stuff
Club N.E.R.D.s.
29th Jun 2017 8:42 am
John C
Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
Really helpful - thank you very much!
John2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
2022 Tesla Model Y LR... almost Carpathian Grey
Previously : 2005 TDV6 SE Auto, Cairns Blue (288K) - ours for 16 years
29th Jun 2017 8:55 am
Gazellio
Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 4130
I have unbolted loads of these on D3's and its just a case of penetrating oil patience and straightforard unbolting. D4 must be different...
Both take the same fittings & are identical. Some earlier D3's had them pre fitted & attached to the chassis.
Think that was before LR realised they could charge you for them.Paul.
06 Java Black HSE - gone
12 Baltic Blue HSE - gone
15 Fuji HSE Lux
Club Biscuits, mmmm nice!
Traxide/Luna hybrid & Yellow top
Some Prospeed bits
+ some other stuff
Club N.E.R.D.s.
This gives you an idea of what you're dealing with. Mole grips on the outer, breaker bar on inner & lots of penatrating fluid beforehand
Click image to enlarge
Paul.
06 Java Black HSE - gone
12 Baltic Blue HSE - gone
15 Fuji HSE Lux
Club Biscuits, mmmm nice!
Traxide/Luna hybrid & Yellow top
Some Prospeed bits
+ some other stuff
Club N.E.R.D.s.
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