doz
Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Southampton
Posts: 436
  
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Okay today I've been playing with the bouncy bits. For a while now I've had the "Suspension normal height only" and the terrain control going off line. Fault code was always "slow to fill". So I purchased a Landy air complete rebuild kit. Built up the spare comp including changing the filter top and new drying crystals. Fitted it today and yes I did put the swine of a top mounting bracket bolt back  when I started the car the comp fired into life and did it's thing, checked for leaks and all seemed happy.
Put the cover back on and took it for a 30 mile drive. After about 15 mins got the dreaded BONG! And yep I had the same fault. I switched the car off and back on and the light cleared for about 10 minutes before coming back. This time I had to drive a few miles before I could switch off and on again. This time the light went out and stayed off for the following 18 miles and until I got home. Checked fault code and it was the old "slow to fill" chestnut but this time intermittent. I messed around with the ride heights forcing the comp to run. I watched the comp and motor temps and it did get hot but soon cooled. Didn't run to often and all seemed happy. I'm hoping it was just the system settling down and I won't see the dreaded light again.
Now I've stripped the old comp down and I found a few issues. First the drier lid was cracked. Now I don't think this will cause the slow fill issue on it's own but it does lead to what was my issue. With the crack in the lid the comp draws air via the crack and not the silencer in the n/s boot cubby hole. Of course this allows the Moisure into the drier especially if the car has been for a paddle. The inside of my drier was minging. The crystal were very yellow and had clumped together but it was the metal disc and pad at the comp end of the drier which were in an horrendous state. Most of the holes were in the disc were rusted over and the rust had grown into the filter. In the drier you can see rust and water marks. The actual compressor looked okay no signs of corrosion but I am concerned my resovuior maybe contain some water. Has anybody seen water carry over into the system?
I'll see how it goes the car raises and lowers quickly and without issue so hopefully I haven't given myself more grief by leaving it like this for several months.
Oh and sorry for the novel 
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 29th Mar 2015 10:17 pm |
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miller.rhys
Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 20
 
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Hi Doz
I had a similar issue with my compressor and found a crack between the two outlet hoses of the drier. I found when I sprayed soapy water on the lid I got loooots of bubbles. I applied a small amount of high temp silicon on the inside of the lid and ran the compressor for about 15 seconds to push the silicon into the crack then left it for the night.
On starting the next day no more slow to fill fault.
The drier is pressurised so as the compressor tried to raise the pressure the crack gets wider and leaks even faster.
I also replaced the desicant and now with a new cap no trouble for over 12 months.
Good luck
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| 30th Mar 2015 9:19 am |
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DiscoNels
Member Since: 14 May 2013
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Posts: 334
 
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You could use this rebuild kit from ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Disco...339930ea27
I actually bought a NEW air dryer just before they became unobtanium, but I did buy the piston ring kit from these guys. My rebuilt air compressor is working great for 9 months or so now. 1998 Discovery LSE - Gold, 249,000+ miles, completely stock
2007 Range Rover SC - White, 63,000 mi
2006 Discovery 3 HSE - Locking E-Diff, Rover Specialties rock sliders, 275/65/18 Cooper STT PRO, LLAMS suspension controller, LR Expedition Roof Rack. Asfir Rear Diff, Tactical 4x4 (Gas Tank Skid, Rear Bumper, and Front Bumper w/12K winch), Traxide Split Charge System, Overland Solar + Lensun Solar panels
BBS Nanocom Evolution and Gap Diagnostics IID BT Tool
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| 31st Mar 2015 4:02 am |
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