Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
For waxoyling, just find a local independent old-school body shop and ask them to do it. 2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
2022 Tesla Model Y LR... almost Carpathian Grey
Previously : 2005 TDV6 SE Auto, Cairns Blue (288K) - ours for 16 years
21st Mar 2011 8:35 am
AndrewW
Member Since: 06 Aug 2007
Location: Saddleworth
Posts: 2302
We just had a techie visit from the guy from the Northern end of the company NJSS recommends.
Reason being 2 new 110s fettled for Mountain Rescue (= £95k!!!); outgoing vehicles show a high level of electrolytic corrosion.
He came to our HQ and discussed his materials, techniques, application equipment, vehicle knowledge, product knowledge, UV coverage inspection, process warranties, product warranties, etc.
(The internal WaxOyl is thinner and injected at 150psi, the external waxoyl is marine grade hydrophobic and sets like a bitumen - these aren't the same as the WaxOyl you buy at Halfords...)
He passed all parts of the test; price is slightly over 500 (+ VAT but we don't pay VAT as a MR Team) for a 110 or a D3.
Proof of the pudding, and all that, but I am having mine done at Knutsford
A
edit Oooh! and you get a holographic windscreen sticker, too! 2006 D3 finally swapped for a 2016 D4 Graphite in Graphite grey. No mods
21st Mar 2011 9:58 am
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73125
I assume they clean off the surface rust before applying the "goo"?? Also there are a lot of wires & connectors under the D3, how would they fare? I'm thinking about sanding the surface rust off the chassis & hammeriting as it is really just the chassis that can't be easily & fairly cheaply replaced TTBOMK.
21st Mar 2011 10:07 am
John C
Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
AndrewW wrote:
...high level of electrolytic corrosion...
Does Waxoyling prevent/delay this? I though electrolytic corrosion occurred (or maybe I'm thinking of galvanic??) when the two different metals touch (aluminium door skin over steel frame). Surely the only way to prevent that is better insulation between the two metals (paint?) when it leaves the factory? Does the Waxoyl at that PSI actually get between the door skin and frame?
Or am I totally missing the point? 2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
2022 Tesla Model Y LR... almost Carpathian Grey
Previously : 2005 TDV6 SE Auto, Cairns Blue (288K) - ours for 16 years
21st Mar 2011 10:07 am
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73125
I assume the electrolytic problem was with the Deafners, not D3s??
21st Mar 2011 10:27 am
eclectus
Member Since: 09 Mar 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 60
Supaguard thats the name.....
I'm getting this as part of my deal, does anybody have any experience of it??
e
21st Mar 2011 11:21 am
AndrewW
Member Since: 06 Aug 2007
Location: Saddleworth
Posts: 2302
Electrolytic / galvanic = same thing... and yes I do mean the Defenders but there ARE places where metals meet on the D3.
It needs two metals and impure water (as in salt) - if it is dry, nothing happens. The trouble with salt water is that it speeds up the rot, then dries out on a good day, but re-attracts the water on a humid day and starts again. Dried mud is not quite as efficient, but it gets there...
High pressure steam cleaning should remove most of the salt and mud residues, the WaxOyl stuff then penetrates and expels moisture (hydrophobic) [have you ever squirted WD40 into a wet padlock? water pours out, chased out of the crevices by the hydrophobic WD40]. It then seals; the electrolytic/galvanic process is deprived of its essential electrolyte solution and cannot proceed. That's the theory...
PS (edit) separating the metals with plastic/rubber washers works, as long as the bolt/rivet doesn't defeat the insulation - i.e.
an electrically insulating grommet-and-washer fitting so that there is no electrical contact even via the bolt/rivet between the two different metals. Difficult to achieve, and not even attempted in Deafener "bodywork" 2006 D3 finally swapped for a 2016 D4 Graphite in Graphite grey. No mods
21st Mar 2011 4:24 pm
AAA.Happy.Disco1.Fan
Member Since: 04 Nov 2010
Location: West Yorks
Posts: 2895
pagoda wrote:
I read the terrible gasman thread. Awful experience. Wonder how that turned out.
Would you tell me how to locate the 'Gasman' thread, please?
AAA
21st Mar 2011 7:25 pm
AndrewW
Member Since: 06 Aug 2007
Location: Saddleworth
Posts: 2302
eclectus wrote:
Supaguard thats the name.....
I'm getting this as part of my deal, does anybody have any experience of it??
e
Er.... I hate to appear rude but.... what I have read of Supaguard on the www is all about the bodywork shine and polish that Joe (lowIQ) Public can see (and admire???) but NOTHING to do with protecting the bits that matter and rust away underneath...
I am one of those geeky folk who would rather have the fundamental parts working, than have the superficial parts shining; minority view, I accept, but I AM prepared to defend it. (What else is an AK47 for?? )2006 D3 finally swapped for a 2016 D4 Graphite in Graphite grey. No mods
21st Mar 2011 8:20 pm
AndrewW
Member Since: 06 Aug 2007
Location: Saddleworth
Posts: 2302
AAA.Happy.Disco3.Fan wrote:
pagoda wrote:
I read the terrible gasman thread. Awful experience. Wonder how that turned out.
Would you tell me how to locate the 'Gasman' thread, please?
Member Since: 03 Apr 2005
Location: North Wales
Posts: 218
I did mine myself when it was brand new and clean underneath, using Dinitrol. Fabulous product, and if you use aerosols, with the supplied long probe attached to the nozzle, rather than a high pressure system, you can carefuly apply it to the areas that need it, without messily spraying it all over everything else at the same time. About £100 worth of material and an afternoon very well spent in my opinion, and a feeling of satisfaction as well.
I so wish that Land Rover would rustproof properly as part of the manufacturing process, as the job could be much more thorough if done before all the bits & bobs are bolted on, and the cost/benefit ratio would be hugely efficient. This is particularly so of a vehicle intended to be suitable for off-road use, and particularly wading, which allows water and all kinds of other muck into the hollow box sections, etc.
I find it unacceptable that the cars leave the factory as they do.
Rant over, sorry.
Ray
21st Mar 2011 9:36 pm
AAA.Happy.Disco1.Fan
Member Since: 04 Nov 2010
Location: West Yorks
Posts: 2895
AndrewW wrote:
AAA.Happy.Disco3.Fan wrote:
pagoda wrote:
I read the terrible gasman thread. Awful experience. Wonder how that turned out.
Would you tell me how to locate the 'Gasman' thread, please?
AAA
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73125
Stingray wrote:
. I find it unacceptable that the cars leave the factory as they do.
They probably think 90%plus of Discos & Freebies and 99% of FFRRs never leave the tarmac so no point. Maybe we need an "I'm one of the few idiots that takes his Land Rover where the Marketing Department suggests it can go" box on the order form!
21st Mar 2011 9:45 pm
J@mes
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: Bomber County
Posts: 4547
Kingmav66 wrote:
Jon P the editor of LRO got his D3 done at Nene, looked like a very tidy job. It's in this months magazine (write-up & pics)
Guy I work with takes his shogun there every few years for a steam clean and re application - he's always happy with it, and hes a fussy git too!2014 D4 XS
2005 D3 SE - Gone
21st Mar 2011 9:52 pm
Russell
Member Since: 23 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
eclectus wrote:
Supaguard thats the name.....
I'm getting this as part of my deal, does anybody have any experience of it??
e
Yes do not waste your money, just give it a good wax and polish when you get it just as good if not better MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
MY15 D4 HSE Kaikoura Stone
MY12 D4 HSE Nara Bronze Sold and gone
MY11 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey Sold and gone
D3 S spec Silver Sold and gone
Tow bar, full length roof bars, side steps, tow bar storage unit, surround camers.
D4 camera club
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