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luciogodoy
Member Since: 14 Apr 2008
Location: Windsor - UK
Posts: 356
  
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| Front Lower Arms Knocking |
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Hi All;
At the same time my car was for an A/C system check, I was told that the front lower bushes/lower arm were knocking (playing) and that I needed to replace it.
I have changed this part before in other cars, but never attempted this on the D3.
Is it easy to identify the problem and fix on the D3 (any special tools)?
Do I change the whole arm or just the bushes?
And (I guess) I need to do both sides right?
While I am in there would you recommend checking anything else that could have gone ‘sour’ because of this issue, pls?
Many thanks
Lucio I'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
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 6th Aug 2012 9:48 am |
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Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1790
  
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General consensus is replace the full arm, some go for RRS arms as they are more heavy duty?  If you are replacing like for like then you could do just the one, however they have both covered the same mileage? and you should really get a 4x4 alignment done afterwards so if you can, do both at once then just the one alignment. There are bits and pieces on here about the job, if you are doing it be prepared to cut at least one bolt (rear) on each arm as they inevitably seize in the bush. 
Best way of cutting the bolt is a reciprocating saw with a decent metal blade, try to mark up the position of the 'cam' bolts to aid in the set up on rebuild but you would still need a proper alignment done 
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| 6th Aug 2012 9:57 am |
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luciogodoy
Member Since: 14 Apr 2008
Location: Windsor - UK
Posts: 356
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HI Biffysun
Thank you for your reply.
I'll replace both and then go for a full 4x4 alignment.
From a price perspective, have done a search on Google and prices goes from £177+VAT to £180+VAT per arm.
I believe the cheapest parts aren't original LR.
Do I need to order spare bolts as the current ones will definitely get damaged.
Thanks
Lucio I'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
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| 6th Aug 2012 12:18 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6308
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luciogodoy
Go through site sponsor TLO from Yeovil Land Rover you get 20% off for being a member of the site, and yes get new bolts and also I would get new ARB bushes as well because your in the area and easy to do at same time.
Flack
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| 6th Aug 2012 12:59 pm |
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luciogodoy
Member Since: 14 Apr 2008
Location: Windsor - UK
Posts: 356
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Unnecessary quote removed
Hey Flack;
That’s a great idea, who doesn't appreciate a 20% discount!
In relation to the ARB bushes, are they easy to change?
Thanks
Lucio I'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
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| 6th Aug 2012 1:23 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6308
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Unnecessary quote removed
Lucio
They are not your average home diy job they can be a right pig to change thats why its easier to change the complete arm you get new ball joint as well as bushes, the rear lower bolt is the worst and the bottom balljoint can be stuck sometimes but all doable with the right technique ( a BIG hammer ). Just remember to mark up the position of the bolts before you remove them. And get a four wheel alignment done after by a place that knows how to setup a D3.
ARB bushes are easy to change just get plenty of freeing oil on the bolts before you start to remove them.
flack
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| 6th Aug 2012 1:47 pm |
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