Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2740
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Rear Camber and Tyre wear. |
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I’ve been a bit concerned to find that my lovely Grabber AT’s have worn really badly on the inside edge on the rear, so have been doing some investigating.
Knowing I’d probably have to put it in for alignment I thought it best to check some things first.
The rear upper arm bushes appear to be in very good nick when ‘persuaded’ with a crow bar, despite the 111K miles the car has done. I did however soak the bolts in WD40, and plan to get some Plus Gas to put on them every time I have the wheels off in the future.
I thought I’d better see if the adjustment bolts were free to turn in order to save time at the alignment process.
Unfortunately they are both completely siezed, and won’t turn once the nut has been removed, so I can’t put it in for alignment until I’ve freed them off.
The head of the drivers side one wouldn’t move with a 2ft breaker bar, so I didn’t go any further in case I sheared the head off and left me stuck without a car for work tomorrow.
Is this bush and Bolt available separately? And does anyone have any images of how it all fits together?
I’ll probably end up cutting the bolt somehow, but would like to see how it all goes together before I start.
I’m lucky enough to have a garage floor that is VERY flat and level, testament to the builders that laid it, and has proved very useful in the past, so I thought I’d do some rudimentary Camber measurements.
I know these are never going to be very accurate, but my findings reflect very well the tyre wear I’m seeing.
The Passenger side I measured at @-0° 55’
The Drivers side I measured at @-1°14’
Bearing in mind I believe the Camber should be between -0°10’ and -0°20’ at normal ride height, and my Drivers side tyre has worn more on the inside edge than the Passenger side they are probably reasonably accurate. At least I know I’ll be able to set them quite close before putting it in for alignment.
So just need to sort out the seized adjustment bolts/bushes.
Any suggestions gratefully received.
Nasher Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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30th Oct 2011 2:01 pm |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20781
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If only you had asked yesterday. I had the body off a Disco doing a heap of work to it, including upper arms and bushes
Anyway, quite common for the camber adjusting bolt to seize in the upper bush. Sometimes they can be persuaded out with a hammer, other times the bolts need cut
There is a tool for removing and refitting the new bush. Personally, I hammer them out, and had a suitable drift machined up and hammer it back in again My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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30th Oct 2011 2:20 pm |
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Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2740
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Thanks DM, I did try a bit of persuasion with a lump hammer but it wouldn't shift.
I've found the part number for the bush RHF500100, can somebody confirm this is right?
Does anyone have the part Number for the bolt?
EDIT would it be Eccentric Bolt RYG000384G with nut RYH500191?
Looks like TLO will be getting a bigger order than just the V8 caliper carriers I was going to call him about tomorrow.
Nasher. Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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30th Oct 2011 4:19 pm |
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Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2740
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Disco_Mikey wrote:Those part numbers are correct
Ta Muchly
Nasher. Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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30th Oct 2011 8:03 pm |
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Hanechdene
Member Since: 23 Jun 2009
Location: High Wycombe
Posts: 570
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Hi
I have recently changed the RHS rear upper wishbone.
the adjustment bolt that goes through the knuckle was also seized. I drilled the head off and then wound the nut not spacing it as necessary which drew the remains of the bolt out without damaging the bush. I started with a small bit then ended up using a 12 mm bit. there is a dimple in the middle of the bolt head to centre you up.
good luck!
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30th Oct 2011 8:05 pm |
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