Member Since: 15 Apr 2008
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 196
Do you bother to Torque???
I had a torque wrench as a present ... keen to use it (it's my first) I undid each wheel nut (and lock nut) individually, before tightening them to 140Nm.
I remembered that the garage that fitted my last tyres used a compressed air line wrench to tighten the bolts and there was not a torque wrench in site ... consequently the nuts were quite difficult to remove.
My question is though .... now they are set correctly, although tight, they seem much easier to undo now - almost too easy, compared to before ... is that right??
I've checked that I've used the wrench correctly but surely its better to follow the old "tighten with your hands, undo with a foot" adidge or is it better to torque???
What do you think? Paramedic, Father, Dog lover and Husband ... in no particular order!
4th Oct 2011 11:10 pm
character
Member Since: 01 Jan 2008
Location: wiltshire
Posts: 5781
only thing to remember with the wrench, set it back to zero after use rather than leave it on the preffered tightness
I keep a breaker bar and torque for punctures on the car trailer, have to check the wheel nuts periodically for H&S
Last edited by character on 4th Oct 2011 11:15 pm. Edited 1 time in total
errr no use the torque wrench provided it isnt a china special and has been calibrated to a reasonable tolerance over tightening could knacker the nuts and the threads. imho Don’t worry it is supposed to sound like that...honest
4th Oct 2011 11:15 pm
PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
Always better to torque the nuts up properly if you can....if not, then tightening up with your foot works well enough.
My local 4x4 workshop always use an air-driven impact wrench and then finish them off by hand using a decent torque wrench (and they always double-check the torque setting before starting even though they think I'm not looking 8) ).
Most places generally just whack them up as quickly as possible with the impact wrench and be done with it.
I'm not too sure that you should be able to easily undo the nuts by hand (using a "little" wrench) without using a long wrench/breaker bar or standing on it. 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE AutoBuckingham Blue 2007 Golf GT DSG
4th Oct 2011 11:17 pm
wychwood
Member Since: 17 Sep 2011
Location: Chicago
Posts: 32
Typically I don't tighten to spec unless there is a part that really requires it (i.e. - a seal of some type). Having to keep wrenches specced and ready for use is a pain in the rear, so I try to avoid them.
If you've got one you're itchin' to use, have at it!
5th Oct 2011 12:22 am
StaticMotion
Member Since: 16 Jan 2010
Location: Hoose
Posts: 714
I use a torque wrench, in the past on bolts (not on the car) I have stripped threads overtightening or sheared them so as I'd hate to do this on the Disco torque wrench it is.
There are occasions when I have had to tighten bolts that are slightly rated above my current wrench but I just tighten them the last little bit with a standard bar. Experience tells you how hard to turn.
I replaced the cylinder head gasket on my 300tdi without a torque wrench and using 'feel' and it never faultered once, right bolt sequence and a bit of sense Funny enough I wouldn't think of doing that on the D3 parts are just a tad more expensive if it isn't right.
Same here you get to feel how tight to do most things but wheel hubs and bearings, and cylinder head bolts on all modern cars all need a torque wrench. Engine rebuild is a must for setting the right torque.
We have three or four setting gauges at work for setting our torque loaders before use instead of just using the external scale on the torque wrench these are calibrated every month, its amazing how far the same torque loaders can be out from the scale setting on them when set with the torque setting gauges.
Flack
5th Oct 2011 3:22 am
Popelka
Member Since: 31 May 2008
Location: Praha (Prague)
Posts: 2430
PaulP wrote:
workshop always use an air-driven impact wrench and then finish them off by hand using a decent torque wrench
I've just had my tires replaced and the supplier whacked them up with the airgun, then also checked with torque wrench.
my first thought watching this was "great now I'll never get them off, as they would be well over requirements and the use of torque wrench was for show as if they checked it was at correct settings" Experience is a difficult teacher, because she gives the test first and then the lesson afterwards!!!!
5th Oct 2011 7:56 am
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
Breaker bar - 2 grunts and a puff for me I'm afraid
5th Oct 2011 9:38 am
Rabbit Leader
Member Since: 15 Apr 2008
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 196
Thanks all Paramedic, Father, Dog lover and Husband ... in no particular order!
5th Oct 2011 9:51 am
abernanteagle
Member Since: 10 Aug 2011
Location: South Wales
Posts: 255
Never used a torque wrench for wheel nuts/bolts. Spin them up by hand then tighten when back on the ground about another 1/4 to 1/2 turn till very tight by hand. Only had one wheel (almost) come off so far but that was because I forgot to tighten when back on the ground Dec 04 TDV6 HSE in Tonga green with Alpaca interior.
5th Oct 2011 10:01 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
I can't understand why you WOULDN'T torque alloy wheels up. OK for Steels, but for Alloy, IMHO should always be torqued....Bodsys Brake Bible
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5th Oct 2011 11:12 am
zarnd
Member Since: 23 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 794
As long as it is regularly calibrated then it is a good idea. I take mine on track days, and got one after a friend went on the Nurburgring for a lap with three passengers and came back and had three wheel bolts missing from his wheels!
A worthwhile investment in my opninion, but remember to get it calibrated. I get mine done every 6 months.
Member Since: 08 Oct 2010
Location: Alberton
Posts: 246
I agree with you BODSY. Alu wheels NEED torque settings to be correct with the one exception ---- Disco 1 Rear Left. This needs standard torque up and then 1/4 turn to prevent wheel loss. Happened to me in Bots and managed to stop with one nut left ( on the wheel ! ). Subsequently heard others who had experienced same on D1.
Does D3 have similar problem ? Life always good with a Landy
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5th Oct 2011 2:01 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Always use my torque wrench and always back-off and re-torque when someone else has been at my nuts.
If you don't torque the torque then you may end up walking the walk!Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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Funny enough I wouldn't think of doing that on the D3 
parts are just a tad more expensive if it isn't right.
