A few of us have either had them changed - try a search for "front wishbone". As you'll see, it's normally easier to cut the old bolts off rather than try to free them.Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
3rd Sep 2011 3:21 pm
Dobbin
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 203
Hi There
I did both my front ones a couple of weeks ago.
First and foremost a Strong Trolley Jack and Strong Axle Stands. If you are doing it on your driveway as I did you need to ensure the vehicle is very well supported. You will be underneath a lot heaving on bolts and doing heavy lifting work, you must have absolute confidence in your ability to support the car safely. Your life could depend on it.
Parts, two new lower control arms (wishbones) c/w bushes and balljoints, Cam adjustment bolts washers and nuts, Suspension Lower Strut mount bolts and nuts and don't forget two new hub nuts.
Tools, other than a good toolkit and socket set the following were essential;
21mm Bi Hex Socket (1/2drive) for removing caliper bolts.
1/2 drive 600mm long Breaker bar for undoing very tight bolts.
Torgue Wrench up to 275Nm for re-assembly (Note -this is very tight)
24mm Deep Socket (1/2drive) for tightening Cam bolts(must be deep a normal wont reach)
24mm Combination Spanner.
Copper Hide Mallet for knocking out drive shafts
lots of strong tie wraps for supporting Brake Caliper and Drive shafts while you work on the lower suspension.
In addition.
You will need a means of "splitting" the lower Balljoint from the hub carrier - mine would not come apart. I had to purchase a large fork type Balljoint splitter and smack it with a sledgehammer to remove it from the hub carrier assembly.
Also the famed Cam bolts - as is often reported these bolts are seized, all four of mine were.
I cut them using a reciprocating saw. I used a Dewalt DC385 18Volt saw with DT2361 metal blades (four blades used so buy a few).
As for time it took me 6hrs for the first side (Balljoints and trying to undo Cambolts were the big problem. I would recommend just cutting them) and 4hrs on side two.
Hard work but very satisfying when you drive knock free afterwards!
Dobbin
Also - I photograghed the Cambolt position before I started to ensure I could set everything afterwards as before.
4th Sep 2011 9:58 am
dangermousehouse
Member Since: 20 Oct 2010
Location: Tewantin
Posts: 27
Hi Dobbin,
Thanks for taking the time to post that up. Much appreciated.
You mentioned that all 4 camber bolts needed cutting. Excuse my ignorance, but is there 2 on each side?
Also would you mind posting up the part numbers and quantities, please.
Bit nervous about doing this, but gonna give it a shot.
4th Sep 2011 10:29 am
Dobbin
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 203
Yes, There are four Cam bolts, two each side, these hold the front and rear bushes of the wishbone to the vehicle chassis.
This is Info from my Sales receipt for the parts I purchased from Yeovil land Rover (Nick aka TLO)
LFX116056 - 17K3 Nut - Flanged - Qty 6 @£1.63ea
LLR028245 - F2 (P) Arm - Front - Qty 1 @£125ea (wishbone assembly including front/rear bushes and balljoint)
LLR028249 - F2 (P) Arm - Front - Qty 1 @£125ea (wishbone assembly including front/rear bushes and balljoint)
LRDI000034 - 17K3 Bolt - Qty 4 @£3.32ea (Cam bolt)
LRYF000203 - 19F2 Washer - Qty 4 @£2.08ea (Cam washers)
LRYG000440 - 18K5 Bolt - Qty 2 @£8.17ea (Suspension Strut Lower Mounting Bolt)
In addition there were two new hub nuts - I don't have part numbers for these.
Dobbin
4th Sep 2011 11:25 am
dangermousehouse
Member Since: 20 Oct 2010
Location: Tewantin
Posts: 27
Dobbin,
You're a gent!
If you happen to be down my way, I owe you a couple of beers.
Cheers
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4th Sep 2011 11:44 am
Dobbin
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 203
If Tewantin (Queensland?) is your location it may be off my normal booze route!!
Dobbin
4th Sep 2011 11:59 am
dangermousehouse
Member Since: 20 Oct 2010
Location: Tewantin
Posts: 27
Yeah, just a little.
I'll drink it for you. It's the thought that counts.
4th Sep 2011 12:19 pm
er1c
Member Since: 24 Jan 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 183
Dobbin,
You mentioned that you need a 24mm combination spanner. I'm curious as to why the 24mm deep socket wouldn't suffice?
I'm preparing to do the job myself in the coming weeks, so I want to confirm that aside from my 24mm deep socket, that I need a 24mm combination spanner, too.
Thanks. Long Ranger aux fuel tank, Traxide w/ yellow top battery, Sasquatch rods, G4 tail guards, GVIF 6.2, CarPC (Dual-Core Atom D525, 64GB SSD, 4GB DDR3 & M3-ATX 125W PSU, Win7 Pro 64 w/ Centrafuse 3.5), Yaesu FT-8900R ham radio w/ Comet CA-2x4SR, reverse CCD camera, RLD laptop seat mount, RLD roof antenna mount, Viair 400P compressor, 3K xenons, 2.5K halogen fogs, Series 3 mudflaps, 1.25" Wheel Spacers (Motorsport Tech), Baja Roof Rack
17th May 2012 1:36 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
er1c, You don't 100% need the combination spanner, but it just helps you to set the cam easier.
At least in my case. Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
17th May 2012 2:56 pm
Dobbin
Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 203
Hi
I used the 24mm Spanner on the Cam Bolt Head, I used the 24mm Deep Socket on the Cam Bolt Nut.
When you tighten up the Nut after re-assembly you need to be able to hold the Bolt Head in position without it rotating as the Cam bolt position sets your Wheel Alignment.
If you use coppergrease on the Cam bolt when you reassemble (to make any future disassembly easier) the bolt can then easily rotate as you tignten the Nut, Having a means of holding the position (24mm Spanner) makes things easier.
Hope this helps
Dobbin
17th May 2012 8:27 pm
er1c
Member Since: 24 Jan 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 183
Excellent information! I just ordered myself a Hazet 600N 24mm combination spanner. I appreciate the insight / tip, guys. Long Ranger aux fuel tank, Traxide w/ yellow top battery, Sasquatch rods, G4 tail guards, GVIF 6.2, CarPC (Dual-Core Atom D525, 64GB SSD, 4GB DDR3 & M3-ATX 125W PSU, Win7 Pro 64 w/ Centrafuse 3.5), Yaesu FT-8900R ham radio w/ Comet CA-2x4SR, reverse CCD camera, RLD laptop seat mount, RLD roof antenna mount, Viair 400P compressor, 3K xenons, 2.5K halogen fogs, Series 3 mudflaps, 1.25" Wheel Spacers (Motorsport Tech), Baja Roof Rack
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