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discotaz
Member Since: 05 Jul 2011
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3
  
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| suspension fault -apparently faulty solenoid |
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suspension fault -apparently faulty solenoid LR want £2500 + labour to replace.
Hi all
I am new to this and would appreciate any help.
I have had 2 Disco 3's now the later one for 3 years. My disco has shown a "suspension fault" shown which my mechanic (don't go to main dealers anymore) has told me is a faulty solenoid. the suspension works fine.
to fix this LR will not supply the solenoid on its own and insist it is part of a bigger item. this costs £2500 plus labour?
is there a cheap fix. how can a solenoid cost so much?
please help!
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 5th Jul 2011 12:55 pm |
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PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
 
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Do you mean that one of the valve blocks is faulty? Both the front and rear blocks contain three valves and they are only available as a complete assembly.
I'm not sure of the cost, but I'm pretty sure that it isn't much more than 100 or 200 quid at the very most. You could change it in one hour maximum so this doesn't add up to the cost you were quoted 
Can you give any more details? Who diagnosed the "solenoid" as being faulty? Do you have the fault codes?
One of the guys on the Spanish forum removed the front solenoid block, stripped it down, cleaned it (in his kitchen sink), regreased it all and reassembled it - it worked perfectly afterwards and took him around an hour or so in total with zero cost.
Another thing I'm thinking is that they were referring to the exhaust valve in the compressor, but even so it would only cost 1/3rd of your quoted price to get a new one fitted...
Oh...and welcome to the forum  2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Buckingham Blue
2007 Golf GT DSG
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| 5th Jul 2011 1:11 pm |
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discotaz
Member Since: 05 Jul 2011
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3
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Paul
thank you for your propmpt response
fault code is 001C1A35
reservoir valve 01
X43 Diag report
I hope this helps, look forward to your further assistance
Cheers
Steve
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| 5th Jul 2011 2:51 pm |
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John C
Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
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Does the compressor ever run when you turn off the engine? 2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
2022 Tesla Model Y LR... almost Carpathian Grey
Previously : 2005 TDV6 SE Auto, Cairns Blue (288K) - ours for 16 years
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| 5th Jul 2011 3:01 pm |
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discotaz
Member Since: 05 Jul 2011
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3
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Hi Paul
have asked does the compressor over run after the engine is turned off
or does it ever run
cheers
Steve
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| 5th Jul 2011 3:28 pm |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20778
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Im pretty sure you would be able to repalce the ENTIRE suspension system for £2500.... 
The reservoir valve is (Im pretty sure) just if front of the compressor, or part of the compressor itself.
Its more than likely a broken wire behind the N/S/F wheelarch. Many suspension + EPB issues have been caused by issues in this area My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 6th Jul 2011 7:03 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
 
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Below is a link from my Gallery air compressor file as to how to repair / replace a couple of the air compressor valves. Also if you access the gallery, there are quite a few other files related to the air compressor as well as the air suspension system in general. There are drawings of the air suspension layout including the front and rear block valves referred to in the above posts.
There is also a parts kit for the air inlet valve, LR part number LR020590, that LR created for the early compressors as the inlet air valve was weak. it only costs a few pounds.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...5B1%5D.pdf
Below is something I found in I think the Australia forum and copy it directly.
My D3 had problems recently - Bong!......"normal ride height only".
Blowing the 60A supply fuse to the compressor. Dealers and LR all said I need to replace compressor ....5-7k.
So, I experimented on the old one.
Turns out about 1 gram of wheel bearing grease fixed it!
The boring bit - The exhaust valve (which sits on the compressor) acts as a safety relief valve and UNLOADER valve.
This valve is swak - I've read various probs like getting stuck open, compressor runs but never achieves desired pressure, times out and Bong!....etc. you want to lower to access height...Bong!! etc.
Every time you hear the compressor start it must first give a fart (to unload)......mine was not doing that.
So it’s like trying to start in top gear with your foot off the clutch - not gonna happen. Remove the compressor; you need a 10spanner, allen key and Philips screw driver. On the compressor head sits the Exhaust valve solenoid and a square plate thing held down by 4 torx screws. Be careful when removing the plate as the 2 fat springs behind it will jump moertoe as they are seriously sterk. Take them out and the piston behind them - which has a teflon seal ring.....which gets stuck. Grease this seal just a little little klein bietjie, like they say a thin film of grease. Ja ja I know teflon is self lubricating etc. but believe me this thing sits under hellava pressure (+16bar?) and kinda freezes up, so you only helping a little.
worked for me and hope it helps some other guys out there.
cheers. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 6th Jul 2011 4:12 pm |
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