fishinmad
Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: St Ives
Posts: 877
  
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Hi Xrover1
Mine was certainly not 'gritty' it was quite stiff to move (I guess this is because they are new) by hand but smooth.
If the joint is 'gritty' that doesn't sound good to me you might want to change the part.
Since fitting I have no problems with light/heavy steering (Just everything ellse on the  car).  Club Narpy Torch
“No return to boom and bust†Gordon Brown when chancellor
He has been proved right, now there is only bust!
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 15th Dec 2013 1:15 pm |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20726
 
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fishinmad wrote:
If the joint is 'gritty' that doesn't sound good to me you might want to change the part.
Disco_Mikey wrote:Have had that before. It is due to the joint being to "open"
If you screw a bollt in to squeeze to 2 parts together, it will be nice and smooth to move 
My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 15th Dec 2013 1:22 pm |
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Xrover1
Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Posts: 26
  
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Disco_Mikey wrote:Have had that before. It is due to the joint being to "open"
If you screw a bollt in to squeeze to 2 parts together, it will be nice and smooth to move
Really? Squeeze the U Joint yokes even tighter on the bearings? Wont's that crush the needle bearings and make them worse? 2006 LR3 HSE Java Black
Los Angeles, ca
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| 15th Dec 2013 6:29 pm |
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Xrover1
Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Posts: 26
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fishinmad wrote:Hi Xrover1
Mine was certainly not 'gritty' it was quite stiff to move (I guess this is because they are new) by hand but smooth.
If the joint is 'gritty' that doesn't sound good to me you might want to change the part.
Since fitting I have no problems with light/heavy steering (Just everything ellse on the car).
 2006 LR3 HSE Java Black
Los Angeles, ca
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| 15th Dec 2013 6:31 pm |
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Xrover1
Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Posts: 26
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maplecottage wrote:Hi Xrover1,
I'm about to do mine also - hopefully today. I've noticed the same with my new unit, it feels slightly 'bitty' when turned by hand but I suppose if it was too easy to move by hand, this would then translate into a really sloppy feel at the wheel.
If yours is the same then I guess that's how they are meant to be.
Steve
Hmm, my experience with U Joints on drivelines tells me that a bit stiff or resistance to hand movement is ok but a gritty feeling just like bad needle bearings is a bad sign. I am going to try one of the ideas below and see if clamping the yokes down a bit helps. Otherwise I will send it back.
The replacement procedure on these shafts is a bit of a PIA so it's not worth it to me to throw it on and take a chance. Since my initial problem was notchy stfif steering. Kinda what I would expect from the feeling of the new U Joint.
I dunno !! 2006 LR3 HSE Java Black
Los Angeles, ca
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| 15th Dec 2013 6:40 pm |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20726
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Xrover1 wrote:Disco_Mikey wrote:Have had that before. It is due to the joint being to "open"
If you screw a bollt in to squeeze to 2 parts together, it will be nice and smooth to move
Really? Squeeze the U Joint yokes even tighter on the bearings? Wont's that crush the needle bearings and make them worse?
You dont squeeze the yokes, you squeeze the end of the shaft, that the securing bolt squeezes together My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 15th Dec 2013 7:39 pm |
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Xrover1
Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Posts: 26
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That's what you were talking about.. My issue was with the U Joint proper! 2006 LR3 HSE Java Black
Los Angeles, ca
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| 15th Dec 2013 9:23 pm |
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Xrover1
Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Posts: 26
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Just installed the new Shaft. Notchy feeling in the steering is gone now. Old shaft U Joint was really gritty and stiff.
By the way, my car is a LHD and i used the same procedures as shown above. I did do it a slightly different way though.
1. I did not remove the drivers side front tire.
2. I jacked up the front end to get the tires off the ground and put jack stands under the frame.
3. I did remove the plastic shield (cover) near the steering rack gaiter. I did remove the inner
portion of the Aux battery tray.
4. I did follow the order of removing the bolts.
5. With the key in the ignition and turned One click to keep the steering wheel from locking, I went under the vehicle and pushed the drivers side wheel to turn the steering until the 10mm hex bolt was pointing down. I was able to use a couple of extensions on my ratchet wrench and easily go straight up between the control arm and cv shaft. I loosend the bolt until it was ready to come out.
6. I returned the steering wheel to the straight ahead 12 o'clock position.
7. I went back under the front again and reached my hand up through the area where that plastic shield (cover) was removed. I undid the hex bolt easily with my hand.
8. i removed the upper shaft bolt as posted above.
9. I followed the rest of the instructions from above but installed the front hex bolt the same way I removed it.
That's it!! 2006 LR3 HSE Java Black
Los Angeles, ca
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| 15th Dec 2013 10:33 pm |
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Apache
Member Since: 17 Oct 2011
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 691
 
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Just done mine today. I took the underneath protection off for access and although I took the wheel off as this guide and the Haynes manual suggest it wasn't required.
The car feels so different, I'm sure this must have been on its way out for ages. The steering is now so precise. One plane of movement impossible on old UJ.
Took me just over and hour and a half, but that includes an oil change whilst I had her undercrackers off and the tools out.
Easy
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| 4th Mar 2014 12:44 am |
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maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
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Apache wrote:...........The car feels so different...............
In what way, has it done anything for tramlining / bump steer ??
Steve
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| 4th Mar 2014 9:15 am |
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Apache
Member Since: 17 Oct 2011
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 691
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I think I hadn't realised how poor the steering had become. The steering is now so light and precise.
At its worse it wouldn't even try to self correct after a corner! I could have set it for a roundabout and taken my hands off!
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| 4th Mar 2014 3:37 pm |
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TdV6Pete
Member Since: 10 Aug 2012
Location: Rutland
Posts: 415
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Yet one more thing to add to the todo list... 2inch Lift, 33inch Cooper STTs, Wheel Spacers, Hidden Champion 9000lbs Winch with recovery points, Full Underbody Protection including Rear Bumper Guard, Rock Sliders, Snorkel, 4x4 screen enabled and Sat Nav on the move (thanks to Bodsy), Discreet LED roof lights, LED work light, BAS Re-map and EGR's blanked, V8 Brake upgrade with Grooved, Drilled and Slotted Brakes, Halo Fog Lamps, Roof Rack, 240V Inverter, CB radio and finally a Swing away wheel carrier with Hi-Lift mount...
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| 17th Apr 2014 2:44 pm |
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steve smith
Member Since: 11 Mar 2008
Location: up north towards the hills.
Posts: 2427
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Will be trying this out on mine, steering has just started going very stiff Steve
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| 20th Apr 2014 3:33 am |
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steve smith
Member Since: 11 Mar 2008
Location: up north towards the hills.
Posts: 2427
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Going to do mine this week😄, one thing when people say remove the aux battery tray what is this ? I have an optima fitted so is it what the battery sits on?
Cheers all Steve
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| 23rd Apr 2014 1:26 am |
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