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discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
  
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Cheers all 
The wires I'm planning to use (same diameter for +va and -ve) are as follows:
YT to boot: 13.5mm2 (came in the kit)
Front 50A Anderson: 25mm2 (only cause I had it, I know the plug will potentially melt way before the cable  )
Front 175A Anderson: 25mm2 (when I get around to making it, now for jump starting only  to replace the 50A)
In the boot fuse panel, the splits are as follows (one screw block will split the 13.5mm2 into two 13.5mm2 lengths, one to the fuse panel and the other continue back):
13.5mm2 -> 3.3mm2 for each of the 4x20A fused aux power sockets
13.5mm2 -> 3.3mm2 for each of the 2x20A fused relays (when I fit them)
13.5mm2 -> 3.3mm2 for the 5A fused spot light switch (this will be with a separate inline fuseholder)
13.5mm2 -> 13.5mm2 for the rear 50A Anderson (as per kit instructions)
Which leaves me concerned with what to use for the inverter, as I'm thinking that theoretically, I should replace the 13.5mm2 supplied with some 25mm2 given the potential amp draw and length (the inverter will live behind one of the boot panels).
For he spot lights themselves I am thinking on using 10mm2 wire to the relays which should be ok given I estimate the length is not likely to exceed 4-5m.
Any thoughts?
Alan G wrote:Niko, the FFRR has something similar to that on the bulkhead of the engine bay, it's for a positive lead as well, but the cap is black, albeit with a + marked on the top of it?
Not sure if this is a question Alan, but I wouldn't know as I've never put my head in the engine bay of an FFRR yet I just came across this as an idea for Jim's earth stud dilemma...
Editing the diagram now and will upload in a mo... ==> Guide - Inexpensive AV Modification
==> Guide - Extend the multimedia of your Discovery III (September 2011, v1.2 uploaded)
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 23rd Aug 2010 1:53 pm |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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Hi again Biz and just a few suggestions, as long as the cable runs are short, no more than a metre, to reduce the voltage drop, the 3.3mm2 cable is fine.
For the inverter, 6B&S ( 13.5mm2 ) is way big enough. Voltage drop to an inverter is not a major problem because an inverter’s very intention is to raise the voltage and this can usually be done from a lower DC voltage then that normally needed for anything else.
If your not happy with the battery switch used to control the inverter, you could replace it with another headlight relay, giving you remote control of the inverter, because although the inverter would pull over 25 amps if run at maximum power out, this is never a good operating practice when using an inverter.
Inverters do not like being run at or near their maximum continuous current and doing so can cause a number of problems including dramatically shortening the inverter’s life span and as an inverter gets close to it’s maximum, the AC wave form can change, resulting in damage to what ever appliance is connected to it.
An inverter’s current size should be selected to be at least 50% bigger than the maximum power you are ever likely to need.
Not sure what you plan to use your inverter for but your inverter should never be run where it pulled 20 amps but even at this level, and with the SC80, your maximum operating time at high currents like that, would be not much more than about two hours, before your batteries needed charging. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 23rd Aug 2010 7:04 pm |
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discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
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Tim, thank very much for the advice 
Yep, the 3.3mm2 cabling will not be any longer than 40-60cm I think. Reassuring to know the planned 13.5mm2 cable will do as, like you say, I only expect the inverter to only need around 100-160W continuously, meaning probably less than 15A for prolonged periods (well, 2-3 hours anyway).
I'm still waiting for a few bits to arrive in the post and taking some measurements for the fitting, but will post progress as it happens.
Thanks to all for the help and advice so far ==> Guide - Inexpensive AV Modification
==> Guide - Extend the multimedia of your Discovery III (September 2011, v1.2 uploaded)
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| 23rd Aug 2010 9:02 pm |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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Hi Biz, you can always use 250VAC switches in 12VDC circuits but AC switches are not designed to tolerate arcing so you have to derate the current by about half when using them in a DC circuit.
So you can use them for DC loads up to about 8 to 10 amps.
By the way, nice looking switches. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 24th Aug 2010 2:17 pm |
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discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
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Just a quick update on a couple of items which may be of interest to Jim and others:
Found a 12way fuse block with two banks (max 100A per bank) here (scroll down the page). Better price than the BlueSea marine 12way fuse block I found and frankly the exact same if not better product.
Also, same site, found some good junction boxes here (again, scroll down), which can be used both for live and earth distribution.
Just thought I'd share, VWP seem to have everything and they deliver to Greece too  ==> Guide - Inexpensive AV Modification
==> Guide - Extend the multimedia of your Discovery III (September 2011, v1.2 uploaded)
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| 24th Aug 2010 6:15 pm |
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JimboD3
Member Since: 23 Mar 2009
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 348
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VWP.............I take their catalogue into the 'little boys' room  Jim
Standard TDV6 HSE
Non-standard Td5 110 Hardtop
Club Traxide
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| 24th Aug 2010 10:10 pm |
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