Just undo the bolt and remove the pipe from connection with the spring clip, there is another bolt holding on to the bracket that holds the looms. Once you get these out you can push the pipe far enough to the firewall to remove the cover.
Just make sure you unclip the looms from the metal bracket before try to remove the bracket, it makes the job a lot easier.
Flack
21st Jan 2021 7:08 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8221
Great thanks, it had me worried, what about the bracket with the three holes marked in red can that come off?It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
Last edited by M3DPO on 23rd Jan 2021 5:14 am. Edited 1 time in total
No Bud its stays in place that, if you stick your hand down the back of that, about 2 inches down is the bolt that holds that pipe to the rear cover.
Flack
21st Jan 2021 7:20 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8221
Thanks It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
21st Jan 2021 9:08 pm
Kviasen
Member Since: 24 Dec 2020
Location: Norway
Posts: 107
I never ever heard about a snapped belt on the fuel pump so i guess the force on the belt and pulley are much lighter so the change interval could be maybe every second cambelt change.
I asked my LR dealer for cambelt and they dident have the rear belt in the change package.
Maybe its a more safe than sorry thing since it will only stop your engine and dosent destroy it.
But of course its scary to stop at a motorway in 120 km/h.
22nd Jan 2021 8:39 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8221
If it should snap at high revs, it can not only take the cover out it can also take the wiring out with it and believe me there are a lot of wires in there, in fact the wires are the biggest obstacle in changing the rear belt, but I must say the rear belt on a D4 is a b d to do more so if a facelift, I am in the process of doing mine and after 6 hours of struggling I am ready to throw the towel in. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
22nd Jan 2021 9:13 pm
Kviasen
Member Since: 24 Dec 2020
Location: Norway
Posts: 107
Remember that on the D4 the belt has to be timed to the fuel pump.
Working blindfolded in there with no space or eysigjt makes this difficult.
I changed it with body of for a engine overhaul witch made it so much easier.
22nd Jan 2021 11:19 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8221
I agree it is very difficult and this is the first time I’ve done one but others have done it so it must be possible, I’m struggling to even get the cover off let alone get it out as there are so many extra pipes in there on a 2014my, how many clips hold the cover on, are they all the same type? - at this stage I can only find one.
I must say I’m tempted to leave it as the main timing belt and auxiliary belt appeared to be in excellent condition, it even passed through my mind that it had already been changed by the previous owner but there is no record of it being done.
4.30am uk time and I can’t sleep thinking about it, I must get out more but COVID-19 won’t let me It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
23rd Jan 2021 5:06 am
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
I did mine on my D4 it is a real pain getting the cover off, just push the steel pipe as far back and down as far as it will go.
Removing the cover is the worst part, changing the belt was easy but you will need a torch and a small mirror to check that you have it timed correctly.
I think i also removed a bolt on the side of the engine that also supports the steel pipe allowing it to move a bit more.
They are a lot tighter for room on a D4, as aja4x4 says push the pipe as far back as you can, there is no need to remove the lower bolt on the metal pipe thats down near the egr valve.
Get the main looms out of the way, there is one clip that is hidden nearly just under the metal cable support for the main loom.
You have to get the cover in the right position to come out, you sort of open it, twist it clockwise,move it and to the left, then twist anti clockwise, then start to pull the big end up and out anticlockwise, out, its tight.
Then the fun starts when you put it back, and also the metal cable support can be a pig to get back in lined up sometimes.
Flack
23rd Jan 2021 9:29 am
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
I have removed and rebuilt a number of D4 engines and even with the body off its not easy to get the cover on and off but at least you can remove the pipe
23rd Jan 2021 11:11 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8221
Thanks for all the replies and encouragement chaps without it I for one would have given up
I have found a very useful clip on YouTube from JLR China, not in English but very understandable, I don’t know how to post a link to it but I can upload a photo of the start page to help anyone find it.
I’ve just finished the daily ablutions, fed, watered and cleaned out all the animals, tried to book my COVID-19 vaccination and got rejected, now I’ll be laid on top of the Disco engine until I’ve got that cover out
Do search on YouTube for “Discovery 4 rear timing belt”
It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
23rd Jan 2021 11:54 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8221
Do the timing pins need to be inserted to time the rear pump belt? - If I line the timing marks on the pulley’s with the timing marks on the new belt I will have to turn the pump pulley forward half a turn, this doesn’t seem right to me.
Rear belt writing can be read from the rear, short spacing on the belt being used(approx 240mm between marks.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
23rd Jan 2021 6:04 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
I did mine at the sametime as the front belt so i already had the pins in.
My pump pulley moved when i took the old belt off and i had to turn it to line up the marks.
Its best if you do insert the pins on the cams, just be aware even with the pins in you can be 180 out..so pins in and then check to make sure your rear marks are lined up.
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d to do more so if a facelift, I am in the process of doing mine and after 6 hours of struggling I am ready to throw the towel in. 
