Member Since: 18 May 2015
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 584
once you've locked the flywheel, don't forget to put the pins back in before you remove the belt.2007 Disco3 2.7 tdv6 SE
gvif with reversing camera
V8 brakes with new EPB module and shoes
Later D4 grille
Alive tuning remap
Mazda MX5
Ferguson ted20 tractor
Hyundai Getz 1.4 (wife's )
8th Jan 2016 9:49 am
Jarvis
Member Since: 16 Dec 2009
Location: West Berkshire
Posts: 280
Many thanks to all the those contributiong to this thread!
3 hours in, rear belt on and ready for re-assembly. Now need that stuff from Harry Potter to fix the bones in my arms now Neighbours very entertained watching me body surf on the engine! Spot of lunch and front belts next.
Getting it back together proved a bit more of a challenge. The design of the cover has change with new clips:
Click image to enlarge
and the coolant pipe across the rear of the engine is not longer flexible on our 58 plate so I didn't remove it, not sure you can see in this picture:
Click image to enlarge
and following crucial input from cmyers_uk on loosely bolting the tensioner on first then fitting belt finally got re-assembled after 2 hours.
Next onto the front belts, DM instructions followed with only one minor problem - getting the camshaft belt cover off, make sure you locate ALL the bolts holding it on and undo them! Used Tipex to mark the crankshaft position once I had got the timing pins in (these needed "cleaning up" to fit the holes too). Old belt off and wow, looks like just in time:
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Fitted new belt and set the tensioner followed by several rotations of the crankshaft nut to convince myself nothing untoward had happened to the timing. Put it all back together, new aux drive belt and tensioner (actually didn't need this but seen the horror stories on the forum of failed ones), topped up the coolant and then with deep breath, started it.
It worked.
All in all, about day and half taking my time and double checking stuff (and brews).
Definitely get the right fan spanner and special tool from Steve (AF) for holding the pulley - best £20 spent!
Now on to oil & filters change before new front disc/pads and rear pads.
9th Jan 2016 1:46 pm
Digger67
Member Since: 27 Jun 2011
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 22
Whoop Whoop!! Finally plucked up enough courage to have a go at this long overdue project!
After reading through the entire thread and Disco_Mikeys initial explanation over and over again, I set to it. 6 1/2 hours later, its all back together and running! Massive sigh of relief!
Thanks to Disco_Mikey and everyone out there who have added their experiences. Top marks to the forum again!! 2005 D3 TDV6 S - EGR's blanked, RRS front lower wishbones, detangoed
2013 Swift Conqueror
Previous Landies:
2001 Disco 2 TD5 GS
1997 Disco V8 3.9
1990 Disco V8 3.5 with LPG conversion
1970 Series 2A SWB
1974 Series 3 LWB
10th Feb 2016 5:23 pm
bulletman
Member Since: 28 Mar 2012
Location: Darwin
Posts: 82
Gday All,
Will be attacking this in the next week as my VIN falls in the hand grenade range. I am wondering with the new oil pump if you need to line anything up as you fit it. It looks from the pic in Flacks gallery that the pump has a flat side on it so does the crank have a flat side as well , and do you just rotate the pump till it lines up before installing it.
Thanks and Cheers Bulletman
19th Feb 2016 6:02 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
If changing oil pump you need the timing pin kits off of ebay about 20 quid, you have to remove starter to fit the tool.
Have a read up on the oil pump seal as some people have had issues with them failing as they are meant to be fitted dry.
19th Feb 2016 6:16 am
bulletman
Member Since: 28 Mar 2012
Location: Darwin
Posts: 82
Yep, I have read up on whats involved, I am trying to work out what engages the oil pump , I looked at the pics in Flacks PDF and it looks like there is a flat spot on the pump where it engages over the crank but I haven't been able to see if that's the case or not, and the manual is very vague in its decription.
Most oil pumps I have fitted are either gear drive or fit over a keyway but that don't seem to be the case here, so am wondering what causes the pump to rotate with the crank.
Cheers Bulletman
19th Feb 2016 6:40 am
Irwin
Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Internet
Posts: 270
There are flat spots on the pump. The new pump comes with a plastic locator ring on it which holds it in the correct position. As you push the pump on to the engine, the plastic ring gets pushed off the pump. So it aligns itself basically.
19th Feb 2016 7:51 am
bulletman
Member Since: 28 Mar 2012
Location: Darwin
Posts: 82
I did think as much but wanted to check incase you need to rotate it to a certain point. Thanks kindly for the reply.
Cheers Bulletman
19th Feb 2016 7:57 am
maires
Member Since: 30 Oct 2013
Location: Sintra
Posts: 3
Hi,
I'm from Portugal and own a 2.7TDV6 Range Rover Sport (RRSport.co.uk member).
I'm preparing to tackling this job myself, and would like to thank for all the relevant information that is shared in this forum and especially to Disco_Mikey for this wonderful How to. Most helpful.
I would like to clarify just two things:
-Is it needed to put thread lock in the bolts that hold the pulleys and tensioners or is the correct torque enough?
-If we slack the cam pulley bolts isn't the risk that in the end the marks don't align properly?
Thanks in advance.
11th Mar 2016 3:06 pm
Jarvis
Member Since: 16 Dec 2009
Location: West Berkshire
Posts: 280
Don't slacken the cam bolts until you've got the pins in
11th Mar 2016 4:48 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20837
Unless the timing is out. But to do that, you need to lock the flywheelMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 28 Mar 2012
Location: Darwin
Posts: 82
I recently done this job , and my biggest concern is that the bolt that holds the timing belt tensioner at 24nm doesn't seem to be very tight at all, and with such a small bolt I don't think you could torque it up much more before it would most likely snap.
I had to remove the cover again because I stupidly removed the top water pump bolt and didn't realise, so my water pump snapped off , but I have notice a small movement in the adjustment of that tensioner, the mark is no longer in the centre of the window it is now at the top of the window so that concerns me a lot.
Is there a reason why this bolt is only at 24nm tension ? can I go abit tighter ?
Thanks and Cheers
11th Mar 2016 9:46 pm
Valhalla
Member Since: 23 Oct 2011
Location: Isle of Skye
Posts: 124
I think you have already answered your question; the bolt is only 24Nm because of the diameter and threading. Don't worry about it, if you used a new bolt, and your torque-wrench is calibrated correctly, it's quite enough to hold the tensioner in position. The majority of the work in holding the tensioner is around the bolt, and several hundred thousand engines can't all be wrong!
The tensioner pointer will move in service, and it depends on where the engine is rotated to on crank-timing once the belt has settled-down. If you are sure you set the tension up and re-checked this when you first fitted your belt, then leave it well alone - you are more likely to make things worse, not better by trying to "finesse" the thing, and strictly speaking you should be putting a new tensioner bolt back in if you slacken it off and re-tighten it once the engine has run for a while.
If you are worried about belt tension, press with your thumb on the spans between the cam pulleys to see if you can deflect the belt more than a few millimetres. The chances are, the tension will be fine.
11th Mar 2016 11:22 pm
maires
Member Since: 30 Oct 2013
Location: Sintra
Posts: 3
Could some one answer to this question please:
-Is it needed to put thread lock in the bolts that hold the pulleys and tensioners or is the correct torque enough?
Thanks.
12th Mar 2016 12:47 am
WillyEckerslike
Member Since: 22 Aug 2013
Location: Out in the world
Posts: 967
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Neighbours very entertained watching me body surf on the engine! Spot of lunch and front belts next.
and everyone out there who have added their experiences. Top marks to the forum again!! 
