If you think you have moved the crank then you need to insert the locking tool in to the flywheel so that its in the correct position otherwise you are about to make a costly mistake..
Flack
4th Aug 2014 3:46 pm
looneyfitter
Member Since: 15 May 2012
Location: liverpool
Posts: 120
All done and dusted.. I thought the tensioner could only be used once (one shot). As said in the how 2. Anyway I took it off and put it back on and all was fine .
Sorry to jump in on this thread, I attempted to change my rear belt today and came across a few differences in the design of my rear belt cover.
I followed all of he instructions for removing the wire harness's and cross coolant pipe.
I found mine to have three spring clips that hold it to the top of the casing.similar to how some cars air filter boxs are held.
No matter how much I tried I was unable to remove the cover!
I could get it loose and away from the casing but i could not manoeuvre it out of the hole.
Mine is a 2009 is there anyone who has come across this also?
Yes from 2007 onwards there is a lot less room to remove the cover than on the earlier models, you just have to keep at it.
DM instructions where written a while ago and do not cover the models from 2007 and on regarding the rear belt casing, as you have found out with the clips, you need to remove theses from the cover before trying to remove the cover.
Also have you removed the two 10mm nuts that hold the injector/glow plugs harness to the rear of the engine, this then enables you to push the harness out of the way to give you a little more room to get the cover out.
I have had some that have took 30 mins to get and others just fall out, and the same for refitting they either go straight back on or you struggle a bit.
Hi well that has made me feel a little better!
How is the cover actually held on at the bottom?
I can get it away from the top but it seems to get caught up on something at the bottom and will not pull outwards.
I had removed two nuts from the harness however that gave me very little more room.
I have had to put it all back together for another day now.
I suppose I will have to persist when I next get chance.
21st Aug 2014 1:59 pm
Leo Disco
Member Since: 22 Dec 2013
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 210
How does everyone torque the rear tensioner to 25nm ? My torque wrench is too long to get in behind the engine so I guessed
26th Aug 2014 9:19 pm
dreynolds10
Member Since: 11 Jun 2013
Location: Berks
Posts: 166
Oil around rear HP timing cover
Hi guys
Thanks to this detailed thread I am attempting to replace the belts on my 2006 D3 HSE. I have managed to remove the cover for the rear HP pump (had to undo the 10mm nut and wiggle the large loom out of the way) and found that the inside of the cover is wet with what looks like very thin black oil.
I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue? If it is an issue at all or if it's normal wear and tear?
It appears wet around the putter edges of the inside of the casing and is clearly very black oil of some kind.
Any advice would be gratefully appreciated. Don't want to replace the belt yet in case I have a more serious problem to fix.
ThanksDisco3 project
27th Sep 2014 12:01 pm
dreynolds10
Member Since: 11 Jun 2013
Location: Berks
Posts: 166
Tried to get a picture of the old belt in place - you can see the oil around the belt. Is this anything to be concerned with?
Seen this before, its either that someone has made a mess when they have changed the oil filter and the oil has run down the back of the engine and on to the HPFP gear, or the right hand rear camshaft oil seal is leaking.
Flack
27th Sep 2014 1:15 pm
dreynolds10
Member Since: 11 Jun 2013
Location: Berks
Posts: 166
Thanks Flack. It all looks clean and dry around the oil filter so I am thinking rear camshaft oil seal.
Cam seal looks like a pig of a job and looks like I need special tools to hold sprocket in situ and another to draw out the seal. Have you ever done one without having to take the body off?Disco3 project
27th Sep 2014 1:53 pm
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
Sorry to hear of your problem but....top marks for the piccie
Steve
27th Sep 2014 2:18 pm
Glenn of Belgium
Member Since: 29 Jul 2013
Location: Zeebrugge
Posts: 108
Flywheel / crankshaft locking tool
I have got the two camshaft locking pins made on a lath.
Does anyone have the dimensions of the the crankshaft locking tool that goes in the place of the starter to lock the crankshaft in place?
If it's possible in millimeters.
This would be great!
THX,
Glenn
21st Oct 2014 7:37 am
kevman01
Member Since: 09 Oct 2013
Location: Pretoria
Posts: 5
Hi there. Can one tell me what will happen if the exhausted pulleys have moved a bit in the slot after the timing belt have been changed. Thz2007 Discovery TDV6 S
2013 VW Caddy 1.6
If they have moved then you will destroy your engine when its started, did you not have any locking pins in when the belts where changed?.
You should always turn the engine over by hand 2 full revolutions after changing the belts to make sure its free to turn before attempting to start it.
Flack
12th Dec 2014 11:26 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
dreynolds10 wrote:
D3 technical photo of the year?
Not sure how you got such a good picture but well done.
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and looks like I need special tools to hold sprocket in situ and another to draw out the seal. Have you ever done one without having to take the body off?
