Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
Have you looked under the bonnet to see what's wrong? Start with the battery, check the terminals are secure, look for signs of damaged or burnt insulation. If you have access to a digital multimeter try and measure the battery voltage. The alternator could have failed and damaged the battery.GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
9th May 2014 8:40 pm
laplander
Member Since: 11 Feb 2010
Location: Lapland
Posts: 47
The dealer said no electrical work!!
The correct procedure is to remove battery lead and starter motor (both electrical)!"I don't suffer from insanity. I enjoy every minute of it."
9th May 2014 8:57 pm
chrissifu
Member Since: 09 May 2014
Location: rugby warwickshire
Posts: 3
I've been told by a mechanic friend that possibly a wire from the alternator has not been reconnected properly or knocked of during the service and was touching some other metal part which has then earthed the battery causing flat battery and no power to the vehicle, not to mention the burning and smoke (just left of where the oil filler cap is).
Does anybody know if the alternator is disconnected during 105K timing belt service on 2007 RR Sport TDV6?
Has anybody heard of the oil change disaster on the new RR Sport model??? Where it gets an air lock and breaks the engine.
13th May 2014 1:19 pm
Allan_T
Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
Disconnecting the alternator makes removing the starter motor easier as there's limited space behind the starter motor with the alternator still in place. Starter motor has to be removed to fit the crankshaft locking tool.GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
13th May 2014 2:54 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
Removing the alternator makes no difference whatsoever to starter motor removal My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 09 May 2014
Location: rugby warwickshire
Posts: 3
Land Rover are now saying that both the battery and alternator are broken and need replacing. The first guy tried to tell me that a damaged battery cell had caused the damage to the alternator! I've been told by another mechanic that that's simply not true and cant ever happen.
After turning off the (smoking) engine, during the long conversation with Guy Salmon, all power from the battery drained away completely. Doesn't that mean the alternator wiring was shorting and drained all battery power?
I really need to ascertain if they touch the alternator when doing the timing belts?
I thought they had to at least disconnect all the wiring from the alternator??? Therefore it seems logical that the alternator wiring caused this problem? Therefore its their fault.
13th May 2014 10:21 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
You shouldnt have to touch the alternator, only remove the aux drive belt, unless you have had the oil pump done
I suggest you search the site for alternator failure. Very common, and i suspect it is justbsheer coincidence it has decided to fail just after doing the belts My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: Copenhagen
Posts: 20
Just did my timingbelt following Disco_Mikey's instruction. All fine but I ran into some trouble as I fastend the 3x 13mm bolts on each cam pulley. The bolts are only 25 Nm but anyway that was sufficient to bend the timing tool slightly an jamming it - especially the one on the left side (waterpump side). To get the timing tools released I had to release tension by moving the crankshaft just a little bit. It probably doesn't affect timing that much but you tend to get a little nervous when you can't retract the timing tools after setting the tensioner. A Tool for holding the cam pulleys was recommended by my Haynes Manual and I think it might help. Just my experience from changing the timing belt. The car drives as is should an I just drove 1000km this weekend - so far so good
Thanks for the post - it encouraged me to do the job myself and save some money...
2nd Jun 2014 9:46 am
looneyfitter
Member Since: 15 May 2012
Location: liverpool
Posts: 120
Hi hope it's ok posting here, can anyone tell me what size the cam locking pins are? Going to do mine tomorrow as it's way over at 120,000 miles.
I usually use drill bits.
Many thanks
3rd Aug 2014 4:20 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
3rd Aug 2014 8:20 pm
looneyfitter
Member Since: 15 May 2012
Location: liverpool
Posts: 120
i havent mate but ill give it a read now. Thanks mate
3rd Aug 2014 9:06 pm
looneyfitter
Member Since: 15 May 2012
Location: liverpool
Posts: 120
Thanks Allan, just had a read... its a bit scarey that eh whats the outcome when it goes? oil everywhere?
Mines a RRS but ill be sure to chgeck that out tomoz. Thanks again pal
3rd Aug 2014 9:14 pm
Allan_T
Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
The timing belt tensioner is fitted to the front of the oil pump casing, if the case cracks the tensioner will allow the timing belt to slip, resulting in a replacement engine.GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
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whats the outcome when it goes? oil everywhere?
