Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
switch to synthetic
For long i hesitated with converting to engine synthetic oil .I heard that jag 4.4 v8 derived engine was designed to run on conventional oils,therefore no need for swapping to others.I would like to hear opinions about it.i have 75.000 miles on the clock and think that might be to late to switch to fully synthetic oil without any added benefits.Is it too late or does not make sense for me to switch? I have always used Castrol oil and would like to use one of their fairy new EDGE.Thoughts?
14th Jan 2010 9:36 pm
Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
I was under the impression there was a different reason why you couldn't switch to fully synthetic late into an engines life. The fully synthetic oil (I have been told) can break up old oil deposits left by the regular oil and can potentially lead to blockages of oil ports.
Iain
14th Jan 2010 9:48 pm
thorgal
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
I am told otherwise,that synthetic oil brakes down old deposits of acid ,left by conventional ,therefore helping the engine in some good way..Mixed feelings now...
Where's oilman he'll be able to tell you....best to be sure you don't want to mess up on this one. Regards, Trev.
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In the wilds of North Lincs or the middle of the North Sea.
15th Jan 2010 1:22 am
thorgal
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
I wish I could get a definitive answer....
15th Jan 2010 3:44 am
heine
Member Since: 07 Feb 2007
Location: Midrand
Posts: 4054
From past experience - Don't switch to synthetic oils on high mileage motors - you will develop major oil leaks for the reasons mentioned above
you read my mind I just hit 75k yesterday and my warranty is up and I was thinking about going to synthetic.
I use mobile 1 in my mini which has a vauxhall engine in it that had about 60k miles on it when I switched it over and havent had any issues with leaks. I think leaks are more of a problem with older lower quality seals.
Hopefully an oil expert will read this and have some insight.Sceen name use to be "wantsanlr3"
Club Traxide
Club RLD winch mount
Club MTRs
-MY05 SE
-A frankenstein Mini '66 sportspack with a vauxhall lump
-'64 AH Sprite
15th Jan 2010 2:58 pm
Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
Hello LR3GuyJoe, have things started to warm up round you yet. Just come back from florida on the 11th and it was freezing, mind you it kept the water parks empty!
Iain - I'm in New Orleans right now but I talked to my dad earlier and he said it has a bit but its still cool out ~70f/20c. Hope you had a good time!Sceen name use to be "wantsanlr3"
Club Traxide
Club RLD winch mount
Club MTRs
-MY05 SE
-A frankenstein Mini '66 sportspack with a vauxhall lump
-'64 AH Sprite
15th Jan 2010 10:03 pm
thorgal
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
I am planning to go to New Orleans on Mardi Gras this year...again..it is fun
15th Jan 2010 10:08 pm
thorgal
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
Experts...please?
15th Jan 2010 10:10 pm
stapldm
Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
Location: Swine Town
Posts: 2330
Hardly an expert, but I've been taught the following.
The issue with older engines (and gearboxes and differentials and steering racks) is that where the oil seeps (not leaks, I mean the the expected wetting action) between a seal and a shaft it dries and leaves behind the particulate it was carrying. Over (a lot of) time, that deposition of particulate starts to build up as a kind of varnish, and as it does it starts to wear the seal. As the seal wears, more oil seeps, more drying more deposition. The wear of the seal matches the increase in diameter of the shaft and no leaks occur. Because Dino oil is not particularly effective at dissolving these deposits, new oil can be added without problems and once it picks up its particulate the process continues. Sometimes, depending on the materials and location, the deposit can be on the seal and the wear can be on the shaft.
Enter synthetic oil with it's much more effective dissolving and cleaning action. Add it to the engine above, and it will dissolve the deposit, leaving a gap between the seal and the shaft. Result; leak.
I mentioned other mechanisms other than engines which can have this issue, but remember that auto gearboxes and steering racks as a general rule use something such as Dextron 3. This is an excellent cleaner/dissolver of the varnish left by settling particulate. Some manufacturers recommend never changing the oil in steering racks and auto boxes. This is so the soup of particulates thickens the oil and and helps in preventing the leaks from the worn seals.
In my (incredibly limited!) experience, I found that replacing oil in these units has been very beneficial in restoring them to as-new performance, and I luckily avoided any leaks.
Note also that should you ever need to replace one of the seals once the above wear has occurred, chances are that before you can get it to seal, either you'll have to reposition the seal so it avoids the worn groove in the shaft, or you'll have to replace the shaft.
It is also a fact that in oil cooled turbos, the sudden heat surge at the turbo spindles when the oil pump stops at engine off, can cook the dino oil and cause it to deposit onto the spindle. This is why water jacketed turbos tended to last longer than just oil cooled ones as they continued to cool the turbo by convection even though the pump wasn't running. It's also why some manufacturers recommended idling the engine for 30 seconds before switching off, to allow the turbo to cool down. Again, use of full synthetic is almost certain to increase turbo lifespan, and conversely the addition of an oil additive that cannot cope with turbo temperatures will almost certainly reduce that lifespan.
Loads of waffle there, but basically use of synthetic from day one almost completely prevents the issue, and switching to synth from dino at a relatively low to medium mileage will almost certainly give you the benefits with very low risks of leaks.Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone?
15th Jan 2010 10:50 pm
MARKW
Member Since: 29 Aug 2008
Location: SW
Posts: 2390
Oilman will undoubtedly give some expert advice. Also worth dropping a line to Ashcrofts for advice on changing oil in an autobox. He will offer free advice to anyone wether you're buying from him or not.HONI SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE
They shall not grow old as those of us left grow old. Age shall not weary them, nor the years condem. At the going down of the sun, and in the morning WE WILL REMEMBER THEM
15th Jan 2010 11:48 pm
chalky
Member Since: 22 Aug 2008
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 3145
Bizarely enough i have been looking at some Oil to day from Oilman !
Afetr scouring there site i have plumped for MOBIL 1 5W-30
Fully Synthetic.
16th Jan 2010 12:07 am
thorgal
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
Soooo,it looks like it is a NoNo for me then...75.000 miles might be to risky,although i don't see any oil leaks or over burning now...
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