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Smiffie
Member Since: 03 Dec 2024
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 7
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A bit of background.
I am now nearing the end of my sell by date, so the days of dirty finger nails and laying under cars are almost over, considering I started fixing cars aged 20-ish I have gained a fair bit of knowledge and in the last five years or so this knowledge has been with the JLR group, I dont know how many I have owned or fixed, right now I have 4 D3's that I am going to scrap in the next couple of weeks, I just sold a D4 last week, I have a 2016 D4 Landmark, a Evoque convertible and too many jags. I run my own workshop fixing my own cars only, and it is scattered with TDV6 parts all over the place, so I have an idea on how to fix them, the workshop is fully equipped with two ramps, snap-on ODB2 readers along with a few others, so I do have a clue what I am doing, but I cannot fix this fault P0105-82.
P0105 codes and the fixes are all over the internet, but not the specific P0105-82 code. that is specific to the MAP circuit (wiring)
Everywhere, and on here, people will say MAP sensor - Air flow meters - Leaking hose - bad wiring - Timing out - Air temp sensor - sticky butterfly - Soot - Cracked inlet manifold - wrong time of the year - not enough alcohol and anything else they can think of, So to help you if you have this problem I will go through it all.
MAP sensor - new one fitted (No difference) Changed it from another D4 (No difference) aint that.
Air flow temp sensor - Fitted three, (No difference)
Leaking hoses and cracked manifold - Did a smoke test, had a slight leak from the two EGR metal pipes, cured those and no more leaks (No difference)
Air flow meters - changed the whole air filter box from another car, plus two from stock (No difference)
Bad wiring since the code reads "circuit fault" I traced the wires from the MAP and air temp sensor to the ECU plug, good continuity, (No difference)
Cam timing a tooth out - I pulled the starter, fitted the timing locking pin, changed the Cam belt. (No difference)
Alcohol deficiency - confirmed sufficiency, (No difference)
Sticky butterfly - Took the inlet plenum off, cleaned it out, no sticky flap - (No difference) Changed it for another one (No difference)
Checked the time of year - all good - checked the alcohol differential balance, topped that up - (No difference)
To me there are only four other options.
1) Faulty ECU
2) Software update required
3) Possible secondary turbo actuator
4) Something I have not thought of.
Finally, the symptom for clarity.
The error code will not erase, it is permanent, I can clear the code, do a scan and it will be there.
The car is super quick and quite, my wife drove it to Liverpool last week and she only had to clear it a couple of times.
When it does cough it will show the engine light (MIL) on the dash but still drive perfectly, then at any time after that it will show restricted performance, and all it will take to cure that is the turn the engine off and on again.
There seems to be a correlation between the MIL and restricted performance to how many times the engine is started and turned off. After 20 years of working with Toyota's I know they have a three start error warning, meaning that if a Toyota recognises a fault it will store that code in case it was a glitch, if the code is present the next time it is started it will log it as a fault, if the fault is still there the next time it is started it will put the MIL on. It does appear that the D4 has a similar system ???
So, any help - suggestions would really help even if it only leads me to something else to look at.
Thank you
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 3rd Dec 2024 10:42 pm |
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Jimbob42
Member Since: 23 Mar 2022
Location: Leicester
Posts: 211
 
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Presumably you have checked the wiring. 5v, gnd and signal? Most cases I’ve seen with similar issues have been a poor gnd leading to a poor. Supply voltage and thus a cranky signal. I’d get a scope on it and see what’s going on. Continuity isn’t good enough, need to prove under load.
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| 3rd Dec 2024 10:55 pm |
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Smiffie
Member Since: 03 Dec 2024
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 7
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Thank you, Yes, a good ground and 5 volt input with a reduced voltage on higher revs.
It is either something so obvious that I have missed, or something so obscure that I dont know about it.
I cannot believe that there are no mentions of this 105-82 code anywhere on the net and that is what makes me think it could be bogus.
The workshop manual only mentions wires - MAP or air temp sensor.
I spoke to the main dealer and he said that code -82 is not a familiar code that they do a software update for. but someone has to be first.
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| 3rd Dec 2024 11:20 pm |
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Jimbob42
Member Since: 23 Mar 2022
Location: Leicester
Posts: 211
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What are the actual map values? As it faults in ignition on it must be out of range. Have you checked the values at the ecu as well? If it wasn’t in there originally then a software update isn’t the fix. I suspect a wiring/connector issue. Are the pins tight in the connector, do a drag test on the female terminals.
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| 4th Dec 2024 6:52 am |
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Smiffie
Member Since: 03 Dec 2024
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 7
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Sorry for the delay and thank you for the reply.
Exact MAP values I dont know other than they were evident so I dismissed that.
Also, as I said this fault will not clear, so I would assume it is a wiring / sensor fault - wire shorting out or touching another wire or "something" but I have a broken wire detector and I followed the feed from the plug ends to the ECU plug, I also did a continuity test for the three wires on the MAP to the main ECU plug and the wires for the air temp sensor, all were good, I then tested these wires with every other pin in the plug to see if either wires were touching, I have no continuity to any other pins, so the wires are not touching.
I am unable to check the values on the main ECU because I am a nut and bolt man not a sparks, so I wouldn't know how to even begin to do that, other than to send the ECU away for testing.
A drag test ? I went to a show in Amsterdam once, but that isn't what you mean is it ?
Knowing that the MAP and air temp sensor are on the same-ish circuit, meaning if either was bad they would give the 105-82 fault, Are there any other sensors that might do the same ? I am now wondering if the secondary turbo actuator could be faulty - stuck - bad plug / wire ?
Other than having the ECU checked I am absolutely stumped.
Anything you can think of and I will check it.
Cheers
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| 5th Dec 2024 10:35 am |
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Jimbob42
Member Since: 23 Mar 2022
Location: Leicester
Posts: 211
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Ok. As a test I would run a new wire from the signal pin back to the ecu. Remove the wire each end to confirm. I’d still like to know what value is shown for the map with ignition on.
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| 5th Dec 2024 12:58 pm |
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Smiffie
Member Since: 03 Dec 2024
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 7
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I am very confident that there are no issues with the wires to and from both the MAP and air temp sensors, both with breakage and contamination from other wires / feeds, however I will always accept there is a possibility I could be wrong, I have been wrong before, but that was in 1985  As a last result I will strip the front out again and do the test again, but right now I am looking for something more obvious.
I will do a diag on the MAP tomorrow and get the values, and again check all the other values and report.
There is a thread on here called simply P0105-85 I read that and it was suggested that the fuel rail pressure sensor plug could be loose or have a bad connection. - something else for me to look at tomorrow.
Driving it today and it was fine, the MIL hasn't shown its ugly head for a couple of days, mainly because my wife has been using it, So today on the way back I gave it some beans and immediately the MIL came on, a touch more on the loud peddle and " there she was " restricted performance and this happened as I got to 3000rpm, again to me that indicates secondary turbo / actuator / wiring / plug. Remember the code will not clear via the OBD port / at all, so it would appear to be an electrical fault ???
Such a shame because it drives wonderfully apart from this fault.
Again, thanks for your help .
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| 5th Dec 2024 7:14 pm |
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Smiffie
Member Since: 03 Dec 2024
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 7
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Sorry Jimbo for the delay in replying, I bought a D5 and I have been working on that as the D4 is running fine other than the MIL being on, when the Restricted performance does kick in it is an easy turn the ignition off and on to be able to drive again, so right now it isn't a real issue.
The D5 does need a few bits and I am doing these now, then the fence blew down in the storm, then, and then, so the D4 can wait.
As soon as get free from what is now imperative I will get back on the D4.
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| 11th Dec 2024 6:43 pm |
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