Member Since: 14 May 2016
Location: surrey
Posts: 55
Sheered off wheel bolt
Oww no. Replacing my brake today and the bolts have been done up so tight and or corroded.
Had to use a breaker with extender…now I have sheered off one of the bolts
I have attached the photo.
What is the best way and method to attack this ?
I have put penetrating oil on tonight, maybe a bolt extractor but I will
Need to angle grind the end of the extractor off as the hub bolt will block it.
Thought s
?
Doing the brake is so easy on these…but Jesus the corrosion makes everything hard
Disco 4 2012.
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17th Nov 2024 4:52 pm
simonwood4000
Member Since: 14 May 2016
Location: surrey
Posts: 55
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
17th Nov 2024 4:55 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2812
I'd be drilling it very carefully with with bigger and bigger drill bits until the head falls off.
You should have enough left to get out the hub once the wheel is off.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
Last edited by Nasher on 19th Nov 2024 12:13 am. Edited 1 time in total
17th Nov 2024 5:11 pm
simonwood4000
Member Since: 14 May 2016
Location: surrey
Posts: 55
I think that’s the best way. I debated about buying an extractor kit that has short stubs but trust me, who ever did these up need a chat too!
I will carefully drill out and then replace the hub bolt.
Job done…maybe. Proberly take me hours !
17th Nov 2024 6:08 pm
ronald.soak
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: London
Posts: 533
Bolt or nut?. The normal arrangement is for wheel nuts, (female) to fix on male studs. The studs are splined and pressed into the hub. The studs can be replaced but are not available as new items.
If you drill out the stud you are very likely to damage the splines and need a replacement hub.
Careful drilling of the remains of the nut or the centre of the stud may work. Either way you will need a replacement stud.
A hole saw might allow you to remove the wheel and then apply heat to the remains of the nut. The risk of damage to the wheel would be high. Perhaps a sacrificial sleeve inserted in the wheel would provide some protection. Examine one of the removed wheel nuts to see dimensions.
The corrosion may be between wheel nut and wheel rather than wheel nut and stud, dissimilar metals, larger contact area.
19th Nov 2024 12:06 am
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2812
Why would you drill right through?
Using a drill just very slightly larger than the outer dimeter of the threads you only need to drill down far enough that the remains of the old nut come off.
Then you are left with a length of bolt sticking out the hub which is the same length as the thickness of the wheel.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
19th Nov 2024 12:13 am
ronald.soak
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: London
Posts: 533
Sorry came to this after posting on another thread regarding a broken stud.
Looking at the photos again I assume that the rusty ring is the captive washer normally part of the wheel nut which bears on the wheel. If so this needs to come off before the wheel can be removed. That it is not currently free suggests that it is corroded to the wheel and/or the remains of the wheel nut.
If you can drill out the that part of the wheel nut which passes through the washer you may be able to remove the wheel. You may then have the problem of removing the washer from the wheel.
Apologies to the OP and Nasher for any misunderstanding on my part although I still have a problem with the term bolt and think that only a little of the stud would be left because the remains would be equal to the difference between the wheel thickness and the depth of penetration of the wheel nut.
If as suggested the depth drilled was only that of the wheel nut thread then the splines should be saved.
However you do it the key thing is not to drill too deep.
I agree that the use of a bolt extractor is only likely to result in a broken extractor and the closure of other options.
19th Nov 2024 12:53 am
MrTed
Member Since: 06 Jan 2023
Location: Rickmansworth
Posts: 189
Well, when my local tyre company over-tightened my Jag nuts (insert pun here) & when I then went to get my tyre changed at Kwik Fit they accidently sheared-off the nut due to the over-tightening. They recommended a place round the corner so off I went & they manually rotated the nut-off via a centre-punch & hammer. It took around an hour and bleeding knuckles but it came-off...
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
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19th Nov 2024 12:58 pm
itsaguything
Member Since: 20 Dec 2023
Location: Manotick, On
Posts: 252
torque specs are provided for a reason and using the right sized socket on a proper ratchet is essential. There is very very little chance that was done due to an attempt to undo an over tightened nut.
It looks more like negligence or the efforts of a wrench monkey. The mark on your wheel is telling.
Glad you got is sorted. ut I table that the economies of unskilled labour had you paying on the backend.2015 LR4 HSE Lux Aintree Green
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19th Nov 2024 3:45 pm
Sylvester19
Member Since: 17 Jul 2020
Location: Central Scotland
Posts: 125
There are businesses that advertise wheel nut removal. On a similar theme to the punch & hammer, drill a hole in the nut and use an air hammer with the pointed bit.
19th Nov 2024 10:56 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8223
I don’t get it! The stud appears to be hollow in the photos and the wheel is being retained by the washer on the stud, get the washer off and the wheel will come off, I would suggest giving the wheel a good clout from under the car or from the other side of the car with a length of timber.
The other question is are they genuine wheel studs?- they don’t look like it to me.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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