Glen336
Member Since: 25 Sep 2023
Location: WISBECH
Posts: 5
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Hi guys, I bought a D3 via this forum almost a year ago, we love it, and since have bought another thats had the oil pump/tennsioner issue.
We've took the body off, taken the heads of and fitted new valves and are now in the process of putting it all back together.
My question is reguarding the installation of the camshafts. They dont seam to be sitting down nicely in the housings on the near side. It does pull down when you tighten the bolts, but the it seams to nip the locking pin that goes through the cam pulley. If I slightly release the bolts on the camshaft cap second from the front, the locking pin then becomes free. We bolted the cam pulley to the cam to try and get the timing somewhere near. I understand depending on where the lobe of the cam is that maybe there would be some pressure as it contacts the valve, but it just doesnt seam quite right.
My next thought is to remove the rockers and see if the cam sits in better without them, or bolt it all back up, put the belt on and turn the engine a couple of times to see if the cams bed into the valves and see if the locking pin is free. Failing that maybe pick another set of camshafts up? Its a job for see but we dont think the cam is bent, but I cant say it definatly isn't.
We're working on it again friday and I was hoping that someone may have some ideas, We'd be very grateful. We are resonably competant, and just doing this project as a bit of fun trying to learn a bit more. We have a Haynes manual and are about to get hold of a workshop manual.
Thanks
Glen
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 11th Sep 2024 10:56 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
  
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when doing a normal cambelt change, and putting in the locking pins at the front, one side is usually stiff as it's under pressure from the cam loab, so if that is your concern don't worry too much.
I think it's the drivers side that does that.
Cam loabs have been known to move on the cam though, so a sanity check is worth while.
Try and use the cams that came with the head where possible
If you aren't happy with the way the cams turning, then yes investigate by removing rockers
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| 12th Sep 2024 8:34 am |
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Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 360
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Believe you are meant to install the cams when the crank is in a certain position - No 1 cylinder should be 30 degrees past top dead center. There is a special tool that goes in the block on the pass side that the crank rotates onto and gives you the 30 degrees.
The fit cams with the chains on the cams with the coloured links on the chain matching the dots on the cams, fit into head.
Install cam bearing caps, there is a torque sequence:
1 NM on all
Pre torque to 5 NM
Final torque 8-11 Nm.
The remove timeing chain tensioner pins. Series one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
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| 12th Sep 2024 8:41 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
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I think that just ensures the pistons are out the way, so won’t hit valves while u setup
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| 12th Sep 2024 9:15 pm |
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loanrangie
Member Since: 18 Jun 2017
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 699
 
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I bet one or more of the cams are bent, when my tensioner went it bent the LH exhaust cam just enough to bind in one of the cam caps. Rockers and other cams were all ok so fitted a used cam and some new bolts and 55k klms later its still running great.
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| 13th Sep 2024 3:35 am |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6308
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I agree with loanrangie, check for bent cams.
Flack 
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| 13th Sep 2024 8:22 am |
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