Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10773
Toque converters aren’t made any more and in short supply
The sleeve around the connector leaks, but you need to remove the plastic sump pan.
And to do that, the engine needs jacking off the mount a bit
6th Jul 2024 6:28 pm
Cheeko
Member Since: 04 Jul 2024
Location: Leeds
Posts: 235
Watched it done it looks a nightmare but I’m willing 😂😂 surly I can get the converter reconditioned I just want to do as much as I can myself without paying someone or failing that I’m sure I will find a cheap one with engine blown that I can strip for parts
6th Jul 2024 6:35 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10773
Most of the used ones are worn
Even ZF provide an additive. Shudder guard
6th Jul 2024 6:44 pm
Cheeko
Member Since: 04 Jul 2024
Location: Leeds
Posts: 235
Pete k so if it was yours what would you do because obviously I don’t want time and effort into stripping and rebuilding if there is a solution people rave about mega flushes then others warn against people rave about dr tranny then others warn against. Yes I did say in a year or 2 I prob would sell but I still want her to last 200000 miles or more been honest I’m kinda liking driving her it’s just niggling faults that’s doing my head in I like a smooth comfortable drive and unfortunately she is far from it at the minute but I also like a sense of achievement aswell got it with the compressor then finally got it with the turbo next I’d like to get it with the hand break and the torque converter 😂😂
6th Jul 2024 7:10 pm
Cheeko
Member Since: 04 Jul 2024
Location: Leeds
Posts: 235
Been honest I understand clutch’s uprating them and fixing them but I don’t understand torque converters yes I’ve seen one but don’t get how they work one bit 😂😂
6th Jul 2024 7:16 pm
Cheeko
Member Since: 04 Jul 2024
Location: Leeds
Posts: 235
I’m sure myne is a metal pan not plastic think that has been updated at some point
6th Jul 2024 7:17 pm
Cheeko
Member Since: 04 Jul 2024
Location: Leeds
Posts: 235
I have however noticed the juddering feels worse when the gearbox oil is hotter
6th Jul 2024 8:10 pm
Cheeko
Member Since: 04 Jul 2024
Location: Leeds
Posts: 235
Is it worth taking oil cooler off and flushing or am I just trying to resolve a bad issue too easy I’m going to drop oil regardless but was just thinking maybe hopefully 😂😂
6th Jul 2024 8:13 pm
Moo D3 Decade
Member Since: 13 Aug 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 14512
Exhasuting read but fun. Good luck. D4 HSE EU6 (Known as Jeeves)
New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!) Sold
Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)
Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)
No longer the Old Buses original owner
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control
6th Jul 2024 8:16 pm
Cheeko
Member Since: 04 Jul 2024
Location: Leeds
Posts: 235
I’ll be honest dint understand most of that but thanks for the input
6th Jul 2024 8:34 pm
Cheeko
Member Since: 04 Jul 2024
Location: Leeds
Posts: 235
I get what your saying now it was all the bit below your comment that threw me 😂😂 oh forgot to say I spoke to a lad from Halifax called Adamson independent he was really nice that put me onto gap I don’t think I would be half as far as I am without talking to him (I think and believe it’s credit where credit is due and if I had a problem I couldn’t solve and couldn’t solve through your good advice he would be my next call)
6th Jul 2024 8:46 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10773
Dr tranny doesn’t cause damage. The manufacture has a similar product.
Torque converters are about £350 and fit between the engine and gearbox. Therefore labour required to remove gearbox
Flushes don’t damage seals. Expensive if you get someone to do it. Or can DIY, but wasteful in oil costs.
To diy search FILO on here.
There is that worry that changing the oil could make gearbox performance worse. There is only 1 recent case on disco and many successes.
Personally I’m not a massive fan of flushes as it is wasteful of expensive oil. Worth while on newish cars.
I guess I like to get as much oil out as possible and then add new.
Oil will remain in the torque converter unless you run the engine for 30 seconds with cooler pipe disconnected (or oil already drained and it can be neatly expelled into the sump, in which case it’s start the engine, wait for oil light to go out and then shut off . So 6 seconds. )
If you don’t want to do that I recommend you drain the oil (check your metal sump actually has a drain ! )
Put the drain plug back in.
Disconnect the top oil cooler pipe, to let air in.
Then leave the car overnight. Ideally leave for 1 week.
Then drain remaining oil. This is a safe way to get as much oil out. Probably 5 litres.
Before starting, be sure you are able to crack open the gearbox level plug on the side. Don’t remove it unless engine running.
Of course you also need to get the oil back in. A big Syringe into the level plug
Or pressure filled into the CORRECT cooler hose.
7th Jul 2024 5:37 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14195
Cheeko wrote:
Gstuart don’t mind at all mate and no need to apologise. I’m totally new to landrover im more of a sports car kinda guy but having a new born I wanted her safe a friend bought it for 1500 and I gave him 2500 for it I knew it would be a work in progress but when I’ve done I hope to have a good car that’s back to its former glory..
When I got it drove down road it sunk after a bit of digging realised the air compressor needed an over haul did that put little balls in it had to recalibrate the steering touch wood been fine ever since. Hand break they broke it when they moved the car originally so that’s always needed doing next job. Now on to the gearbox it went into handover at 78000 owner said it had a problem(the problem I’ve got) feels like it’s driving on gravel. Looking though the history it had an advisory for leaking oil from gearbox I believe it was the plastic at the top but I’m guessing was thinking that if this hasn’t been fixed and it drained it could not be the torque converter but could be low on oil so when I do the handbreak I’m going to drop and fill to the level see if it leaks or if it solves the issue I don’t want to add dr tranny heard this damages gear box if I need a new torque converter then so be it I’m not going to do the oil change properly because I don’t like the idea of a gearbox flush apparently blows seals at my mileage don’t want to empty torque converter by using gears with no oil so instead with dilute the oil and drop again and replace. (If I’m wrong please someone tell me) I’ll also do transfer box oil and diff oil at same time. The engine oil and fuel filter has apparently been done but I will redo these anyway at some point. Lower bushes need doing but that was an advisory no play just worn I’ll do these but only if it fails otherwise this will be done when car is more reliable mot is due in 43 days so time will tell had an advisory too for rear break lines so I’ll do them at same time change the fluid I’m also going to overhaul all 4 callipers and paint under seal the whole chassis but I’ll take body off for that bit at a time but I will get it mint then I’ll sell one winter and hopefully get my money back plus some. Any advice input feel free to say it’s all welcome cheers
Likewise mate as was also a newbie some 7-8 years ago to discoveries , not to Land Rover as had them for some 40 x years
The D3 is my favourite so far , learnt they take a little bit more looking after including a wider range of tools but well worth it considering there so comfortable and drive extremely well
Have learnt a lot from the extremely kind members on this forum along with putting up with me 🤣
Please dont ever hesitate to ask a question as there’s never a daft one asked
Great step u got ur own gap iid as they pay for themselves very quickly , also having a multimeter and battery charger are very useful, many of us use CTEK and handy as u can charge ur main battery via the towing 12s socket
Plse let us know how u get on
7th Jul 2024 5:59 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14195
Cheeko wrote:
Guy who my mate bought it off payed 10k for it then parked it up around 5 years ago think he had it on the road a year 18 month max
Oh wow , have u checked the dates on the tyres plse as they may also req replacement
7th Jul 2024 6:02 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10773
Engine
As your new to ownership you should know these 2.7 engines can destroy themselves for as least 3 reasons.
Crank snap
Bearing rotate
Cambelt tension mount failure.
Only the last one can be prevented. Inspect the oil pump to ensure it is the later type. Tensioner is mounted to it.
A 2009 should be ok.
What I am saying is don’t waste too much money on mods.
Do change the engine oil a lot.
Get some Dr tranny in it to prevent shudder, which could stress crank
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