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Underbody Rust
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kris83
 


Member Since: 24 Nov 2023
Location: edinburgh
Posts: 12

United Kingdom 
Underbody Rust

Click image to enlarge

Hi folks.

I've been doing some work on my sills after removing the tree sliders on my D4.

The outer sills were pretty rotten so I've welded in new metal.

The car also needs discs, pads and I think the compressor rebuilt. Before i spend more on it, I could do with a view on whether the chassis has too much rust or not?

Essentially, if it's a wire brush and lanoguard, I'll get it done at the end of summer but if it's worse than that, I'll likely get rid.

What do you guys reckon? (Photos attached).
Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge
  
Post #23703273rd Jun 2024 11:18 am
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disco chris
 


Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: London
Posts: 263

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Buckingham BlueDiscovery 3

As far as I'm aware the chassis on the D3/4 are pretty chunky and what you see there is probably surface.... apart from the sills and maybe another weak spot around the rear driveshafts, not likely to have proper issues with many other bits?

Although I may well be corrected by someone more knowledgeable! Very Happy
  
Post #23703353rd Jun 2024 1:43 pm
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PROFSR G
 


Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4938

Ukraine 2009 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial XS Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

In addition to what disco chris has already said re the chassis and rear drive shaft housings. A closer look is needed at the rear crossmembers, gussets, inner sills, and general underbody. There looks to be at least some heavy body corrosion given the condition of the area in the N/S/R wheel arch where the brake pipe is held.

It might be serviceable but the body steel is nowhere near as heavy as the chassis in these areas. To assess properly you you need get under it with a sharp screwdriver and see if you can pierce through the rust. Spare wheel removal will make it easier to access the rear/boot floor/EPB mount/crossmember etc.

Check also the condition rear disc backplates as they're no small job to replace.

Unless all the rust is removed properly it will be a waste of time and money, but either way it's gonna be a very dirty job for somebody. Big Cry
 yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ

 
 
Post #23703383rd Jun 2024 2:23 pm
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kris83
 


Member Since: 24 Nov 2023
Location: edinburgh
Posts: 12

United Kingdom 

Thanks guys. The inner sills are OK, I've had a good look when I've had bits of the outers cut off.

I'll have a poke around with a screwdriver and hope for the best!
  
Post #23703433rd Jun 2024 3:14 pm
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Cresco750
 


Member Since: 20 Sep 2016
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 41

New Zealand 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Santorini BlackDiscovery 4

Is that the result of driving on salted roads? (Asking from a non-salted part of the world).
 2016 LR4 SDV6 HSE
SOLD: 2005 2.7 TDV6 HSE Auto 
 
Post #23703623rd Jun 2024 10:41 pm
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kris83
 


Member Since: 24 Nov 2023
Location: edinburgh
Posts: 12

United Kingdom 

I think so. Looking at the car's history, it's spent quite a while in the north east of England and Scotland. (Or down a salt mine, or possibly in the sea)
  
Post #23703633rd Jun 2024 10:45 pm
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itsaguything
 


Member Since: 20 Dec 2023
Location: Manotick, On
Posts: 196

Canada 2015 LR4 3.0 SCV6 HSE Lux Auto Aintree GreenLR4

I’ve spent some time researching how to deal with the rust issue.
In the end I’ve decided to proceed with a 3 step process:
1. clean/wire brush off the loose rust
2. apply a rust converter
3. optionally paint, if preferred.
4. apply lanolin or equivalent (I opted for Corrosion Free, as it passes the military standards)

fwiw
 2015 LR4 HSE Lux Aintree Green
2013 LR2 HSE Radiance Red
2007 XKR Jaguar Racing Green
2005 XJR Jaguar Racing Green
2002 S-Type R British Racing Green 
 
Post #23703704th Jun 2024 3:08 am
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