Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5107
Trailered Movements wrote:
Highlands - the little chargers will do the job, however, the faster/greater the charge, the better it is for the battery as this has the effect of cleaning the plates.
It's like cleaning barnacles off the hull of a boat with a soft brush (you'll be there all day), however a wire brush will do the job better, and in half the time.
Agreed for bulk/absorption stage (for which I have a 30A charger), but if the OP is just after something suitable for maintaining the battery in a charged state it won't be able, or wise in any event, to try to pump many amps...so a MXS5.0 should be fine.
Hope so, as that's what I tend to use! Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
5th Dec 2023 11:22 am
Trailered Movements
Member Since: 16 Jan 2020
Location: East/West Sussex Coast Borders
Posts: 1200
My next door neighbour used a 5amp one on his 911, it kept enough life in the battery to start it (just), as they do need quite a bit of oomph to fire up.
As he doesn't use the car much, he ended up needing a new battery last year, and after he had been away for a couple of months, it failed to start.
I used my Ctek to 'recon' it, and it was as good as new.
He then bought a 10amp version, and now has no troubles starting, however long he leaves it.
Not saying the little ones don't trickle charge, just pointing out the greater the charger output, the better it is for the battery, especially the large capacity ones fitted to Discos etc.
Dave2011 Discovery 4 Commercial SDV6 (Gone)
2010 RRS TDV8 (Gone)
1980 OBLIC 4.0ltr Range Rover (went a long time ago)
5th Dec 2023 1:40 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8243
Will a 25amp Ctec recondition AGM batteries?- I have asked this question elsewhere to get a quick reply as I have been offered one second hand. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
How do all connect them
On Our Jag sportbrake 3ltr I used to connect to the positive and the black on to the nearest bolt it kept it maintained with a 5.0 Chekhov
I’m thinking of using the tow electric option on our D4
I don’t have any issues just like to keep the battery at optimum if I can
It had a new battery last year before my ownership
9th Dec 2023 11:50 am
Carl and Petra
Member Since: 13 Feb 2015
Location: Hautes Pyrenees
Posts: 219
Daftlad.
I took the simple way and put the neg on the battery clamp and the pos to the spare on the pos battery terminal.
The lead then through the rubber on the dust cover.
We choose to charge the battery with the bonnet up so we never forget it is there.
Simple enough to unplug and close the bonnet.
We considered the towing electric option but just knew what would happen!
Sound the old fashioned way then , I charge my Caddy fishing van straight on the pos n neg terminals
There some theories that you should put the negative to the body to avoid BMS issues
Not sure myself I did as you on the D3 for years but that only had the single battery
9th Dec 2023 1:04 pm
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1679
I've read , that charging with a direct connection to negative rather than body earth does not take the charge through the battery management connections ( I hope that's right), so always better to connect to an earth point.Gary
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Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
9th Dec 2023 4:46 pm
riverblanche
Member Since: 31 Aug 2010
Location: retford'ish
Posts: 2230
daftlad wrote:
you should put the negative to the body to avoid BMS issues
That's what he said
ride on lawnmower and motorbikes were straight to battery (no BMS )
D3 (x2), RRS (x2), FL2, Cayenne and mondeo all via the tow socket,
transit under bonnet to an earth bolt and the + to the jump lead post as the battery is buried
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)
under bonnet to an earth bolt and the + to the jump lead post as the battery is buried 
. Didn't catch that post before I put in my 5c worth !
