Member Since: 05 Sep 2011
Location: New Milton
Posts: 5
SDV6 Timing belt and Fuel Pump Belt Replacement
Hi everyone, at the risk of repeating a previous post, I have a customer with a 2010 D4 which is soon due for a set of belts (mileagewise at least). I have fitted many, many D3 belts with no issues apart from a few grazed knuckles, but I was told with some horror that on a D4 the pump has to be timed, unlike the D3. I did a little investigation on a workshop manual CD I have, and sure enough the procedure shows a locking plate and timing marks that appear as though they may be on the belt itself. I wondered if anyone here has come across this, and if so what sort of a was it to do?? I really don't want to have to lift the body off unless I really have to!! Many thanks in advance of any replies......Si...My conscience is clear...........i also have a bad memory.....
21st Jan 2015 10:04 pm
Russell
Member Since: 23 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
Do not think many have been done yet so no short cuts have been found or published. The general muttering appears to be body off I am affraid but thats just the word so wait and see what the more expirienced people have to say MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
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MY11 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey Sold and gone
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22nd Jan 2015 2:13 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
I spoke with my local dealer, who said they have only done the belts when replacing engines. They have no idea how they will do it with the body in place...
The pump is indeed timed to engine, there are 2 marks in the belt, which correspond with amark on the HPFP and cam pulleys. No idea how critical pump timing is, as it is still a common rail system
Gut feeling is it will be body off. Book time is 6 and a bit hours for both belts...My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 05 Sep 2011
Location: New Milton
Posts: 5
Thank you both very much, I'll chat with the owner to see what he wants to do. He may well just let it run with a new cam belt and the old pump belt. every time I've taken off an old pump belt there has been very little wear. It'd be interesting to do the pump belt though, maybe lift the body. see how it's done and then try to work out a shortcut or two! What could possibly go wrong?? My conscience is clear...........i also have a bad memory.....
22nd Jan 2015 7:26 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
If it were my car, I'd replace the belt as normal, and see what happens.
If it worked, great. If not, then lift the body and fix it. But I don't have a D4 My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
Disco_Mikey wrote:
The pump is indeed timed to engine, there are 2 marks in the belt, which correspond with amark on the HPFP and cam pulleys. No idea how critical pump timing is, as it is still a common rail system
I gather it's a Bosch 0445010614 HPFP on the D4 but there's little information regarding the importance of timing the pump correctly.GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
22nd Jan 2015 11:07 am
woodstock1
Member Since: 05 Sep 2011
Location: New Milton
Posts: 5
Today I spoke with a friend who has done several Bosch diesel training courses lately. It seems that the later generation high pressure pumps have fewer pumping chambers, and the pump pressure 'pulses' have to be co-ordinated with injector firing pulses. this is to maintain the correct fuel rail pressure under all loads and conditions. Hence the need for timing marks on the belt/pulleys.
This is all well and good, IF it is possible to access or even see the pulleys!What will happen if the pump is not timed?, I'm afraid I can't get a definite answer. So, for now, the car will continue on it's original belt, until the owner has plucked up the courage/cash to go ahead. I think on this one when the time comes I'll lift the body, then try and work out some dodges for the next one...... Cheers again everyone......My conscience is clear...........i also have a bad memory.....
22nd Jan 2015 8:11 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
And yet, the belt/pulley is smaller still than the EU4 models, so you would think it would generate even more pressure
Member Since: 15 Dec 2013
Location: essex
Posts: 133
It's timed to help engine smoothness due to the pluses of the high pressure pump when it's on its pressure stroks
22nd Jan 2015 8:47 pm
Allan_T
Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
The Bosch provides around 2,000 bar of pressure compared with ~1,600 from the Siemens VDO.GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
22nd Jan 2015 9:05 pm
SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1146
Pump belt can be done with the body on. I did one this week. You do need the special tool to lock the hp pump sprocket though. The rest of the tools are the same as a d3.
Book time is 5.1 hours for both belts.
Front belt is more difficult. Lots of vac pipes in the way and only a small part of the fan shroud comes off.
Easy enough to check and adjust the timing on front cams and hp pump. but you need to lock with the pin above the starter.
Those of you who don't use the pin are now not only getting the cam timing wrong, but also a double chance of pump timing wrong... Best to do it properly.
Regards Steve
23rd Jan 2015 6:07 am
woodstock1
Member Since: 05 Sep 2011
Location: New Milton
Posts: 5
Thanks for your posts everyone. Steve, what are the chances of fitting a replacement pump belt without the tool? Unfortunately I don't work at a dealer, and can find no reference to the timing tool from all the usual sources. I guess with good access(i.e body off) it would be possible to hold the pulleys and keep the timing correct, but with such limited access, I fear it must be nigh on impossible. It's good to know that with the tool it's possible to do with the car still assembled anyway! Thanks...Si..My conscience is clear...........i also have a bad memory.....
23rd Jan 2015 1:20 pm
SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1146
You need the tool as two pins push into the hp sprocket & one is offset pushing into the head, setting the pump up exactly,so without the tool you won't know if it's timed correctly.
regards
Steve
23rd Jan 2015 2:52 pm
Woolmeister
Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3464
Hunters LR in Southampton have the special tools.
They claimed to have replaced rear camshaft oil seals on 3.0 SDV6s using the special tools without taking the body off.
Steve2021 BMW iX3 Premier Edition in Carbon Black ⚡️🔌
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23rd Jan 2015 2:56 pm
Streffie
Member Since: 30 Mar 2014
Location: Midlands
Posts: 171
SteveNorman wrote:
Pump belt can be done with the body on. I did one this week. You do need the special tool to lock the hp pump sprocket though. The rest of the tools are the same as a d3.
Book time is 5.1 hours for both belts.
Front belt is more difficult. Lots of vac pipes in the way and only a small part of the fan shroud comes off.
Easy enough to check and adjust the timing on front cams and hp pump. but you need to lock with the pin above the starter.
Those of you who don't use the pin are now not only getting the cam timing wrong, but also a double chance of pump timing wrong... Best to do it properly.
Regards Steve
Here here, good words well said, no doubt a good mechanic, and not a bonus huniting fitter ðŸ‘
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was it to do?? I really don't want to have to lift the body off unless I really have to!! Many thanks in advance of any replies......Si...
Thanks...Si..
