Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2813
  
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Nigel
I suppose you could argue that anything can be fixed given time and money after it goes wrong, breaks, or wears out.
Body and Chassis can be welded.
Engines and other major mechanical components can be replaced or repaired.
Anything can be replaced with new or known to be good used replacement parts.
BUT, that time thing is what bothers me.
Yes anything can be fixed, but the inconvenience of a breakdown possibly far from home or at a bad time, and then the loss of the vehicle whilst it’s being fixed really makes your strategy worthwhile.
Some random thoughts:
Looking after the Chassis and body like you’ve done is a great start, but I believe like you I’m in two minds about doing anything major to a low mileage engine like yours other than servicing it more regularly than recommended with good quality fluids etc.
A big Diesel should be good for 200K+ miles when looked after.
I understand ours can be a little fragile, but there does appear to be a tenuous link with major servicing and catastrophic failure in some cases.
Perhaps there is a way to measure the Oil pressure at each service time and compare it to previous.
And take the approach that if it’s not changing, don’t touch it.
I also know of course that you’ve had the gearbox flushed quite recently, and I’d be planning on that every 2-3yrs regardless of mileage.
I’d add the Transfer box and Diff fluids to that at the same time.
It could be worth swapping out the suspension arms before the bushes wear out, or at the very least remove and copperslip all the bolts so it’s a really quick job to do when they do need doing.
Some may suggest replacing the bushes with Polybush or similar. But I’m not sure they actually last any longer really.
The D4 Air suspension Compressor appears to give less issues than the early D3 ones, but a complete replacement or service of any filters etc would make sense.
The Air Tank could possibly be worth checking over and being repainted to stop corrosion.
Perhaps a replacement set of Glow plugs is worth the investment?
Then there is all the usual sunroof drain preventative maintenance to prevent water ingress, possibly with the inclusion of the body joint seal failure under the roof trim pieces like I had on my D3.
Electrically perhaps it’s worth stripping out some vulnerable ECUs etc and adding some silicone grease around the connectors.
Is the Body Control Module on a D4 in the same place as the D3? ie where it can get wet and cause sudden CANBUS failure.
I’m sure you do this already, but the Leather seats really do appreciate a feed occasionally to keep them supple and avoid cracks and tears.
One more big thing I know you are good at is just to have some mechanical sympathy, warm it up in the morning, and simply be careful with it but not to extent of reducing what you do with it. Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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 4th Sep 2023 11:04 am |
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disco chris
Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: London
Posts: 281
  
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I've been thinking about this too NJSS, though I have a 2005 D3 fast approaching 250k miles... I would still like to keep for as long as possible as it has been owned by us from new and has definitely reached family heirloom status... and is just a fantastic vehicle that I don't want to replace.
The biggest issue for me is that the chassis has never had any additional anti-corrosion treatment so some parts are starting to look a bit worse for wear especially around the rear of the car (and the air suspension reservoir, which is original). However, even after 18 years, the chassis is still very solid, rust is superficial. Sills are unknown... nothing on the last MOT, but I am scared to look.  If they go I will pay to replace them.
I found the LR Time videos very satisfying when they got everything off the chassis and gave it a complete strip back followed by anti-corrosion treatment - if I had the ability to do that at home I would love to.
Ultimately my attitude is, if you are ignoring the 'economic' argument for keeping a vehicle (i.e. gearbox breaks and replacement is £3k, car only worth £2k, so move it on) for the sake of sentimentality or emotional attachment or purely for the challenge which is the route I am taking, then anything that goes wrong can be fixed if your pockets are deep enough. And beyond keeping recommended servicing up-to-date (including the anti-corrosion treatments you have done) then I think it will just be a case of replacing things as they wear out or break. Everything you have listed seems pretty exhaustive to me, sounds like you are in a great position to enjoy D4 motoring for many more years. Particularly with an ad-blue D4 - my D3 may be banned from use before she gives up on me, which would be a sad day indeed.
Enjoy the incredible vehicle. 
Chris
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| 4th Sep 2023 11:57 am |
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sacimiddx
Member Since: 09 Mar 2007
Location: hants
Posts: 2144
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Stop driving it like you stole it Nigel
 Illegitimi Non Carborundum
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| 4th Sep 2023 12:19 pm |
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NJSS
Member Since: 06 May 2009
Location: Catherington, Hampshire.
Posts: 10795
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Thanks Paul - I missed your comment until this morning!
Simon - When I had the gearbox flushed in November 2021 @ 48K miles I also had the transfer box and differentials refilled.
At that time I made a note to repeat the process at 90k miles or November 2025 on Ian's recommendation. The D4's only done 60k miles now so it will be 11/25 !
Regards to you both
Nigel
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| 19th May 2024 7:58 am |
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Grist
Member Since: 06 Oct 2024
Location: East Meon
Posts: 5
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Thanks for the recommendation NJSS. Just bought a 2010 D4. Very close to you in East Meon. Will send it to Chris as soon as I get all the other stuff fixed ! 2010 D4 XS
2019 RR SV
2017 Porsche Macan
2008 Ferarri 612
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| 15th Oct 2024 6:16 pm |
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NJSS
Member Since: 06 May 2009
Location: Catherington, Hampshire.
Posts: 10795
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Welcome Grist
I have PMed you
Regards
Nigel
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| 16th Oct 2024 7:48 am |
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