What's the actual question ? is it a dry joint fix ??
26th Nov 2022 11:20 pm
Sneakymickeyy
Member Since: 20 Dec 2021
Location: Høland
Posts: 11
I have canbus fault everything points to this part. It's been fixed before it seems so was hoping to bake it but don't think the screen can handle it
26th Nov 2022 11:27 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1807
This has the canbus resistors on it. I would use a magnifying glass and look at most soldered joints now that you have it out. It would be a "cold" joint, usually cracked all the way around a hole etc or on one of the chips. Hope you are good at fine soldering.
27th Nov 2022 9:31 am
Moleshome
Member Since: 15 Oct 2020
Location: Wokingham
Posts: 412
If you're trying to reflow the solder you'll probably need to be somewhere just over 180C for about 20 minutes.
27th Nov 2022 10:24 am
Sneakymickeyy
Member Since: 20 Dec 2021
Location: Høland
Posts: 11
Okay thx but will the screen and dail house manage that temp?
27th Nov 2022 10:58 am
jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 769
Forget the oven, unless you want to remove everything plastic from the PCB board, that green connector at the top left will melt way before the solder becomes a liquid. You could protect parts with heat resistant tape and use a heat gun. The problem with heat guns is your likely to warp the PCB if you dont heat it all and let it all cool down slowly.
As already suggested it is better to find the dry joint /s and repair them all with new solder.
Or send it away for a proper repair to those that do them all the time.
27th Nov 2022 11:59 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14004
Sneakymickeyy wrote:
I have canbus fault everything points to this part. It's been fixed before it seems so was hoping to bake it but don't think the screen can handle it
Hi
Once again apologises in forgetting to tell u to disconnect the battery before doing a canbus OHMs test
Please let us know what u find after testing the following pins on ur OBD2 port using a multimeter
Test probe to pin 6 other probe to pin 14 , read ohms
Test probe to pin 3 other probe to pin 11, read ohms
Hope it helps
27th Nov 2022 1:08 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10629
LCD's screens don't like it much above 100°C
Not sure if that is LCD
27th Nov 2022 2:07 pm
epninety
Member Since: 12 Oct 2012
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 329
I happened to have an IPC sat on the shelf here, so if it helps, these are the four resistors that form the terminators for the two CAN interfaces. It's not certain, but they would be likely culprits.
Click image to enlarge
The two resistors in the centre, marked 62R0, next to the IPC connector.
Click image to enlarge
R36, R37 marked on the silkscreen, again both marked 62R0, near the middle of the board.
If you've got a small soldering iron, you can just reflow these four with low risk of causing any more damage. Lead -free solder always looks a bit like a poor solder joint anyway, so I would just reflow them with a little leaded solder so it flows nicely. If you aren't used to surface mount components, heat the solder in the joint, not the component, and only one end at a time so it doesn't float away. Find some electronic junk to practice on - ebay is a good source of it I find
28th Nov 2022 2:30 am
Yankee_Rover
Member Since: 02 Jun 2021
Location: Seattle
Posts: 183
Sneakymickey posted in another thread that he tracked his problem to a bad parking brake module.2008 LR3 HSE, 4.4L V8
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