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amondeggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: Telford
Posts: 155
  
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| HELP PLEASE : CANNOT REMOVE SUMP FILTER ON TRANSMISSION !! |
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My car has been plagued with vibrations under hard acceleration and when towing. From what I have read this may be due to degrading transmission fluid. Today my mechanic has worked on my car to carry out a double flush of the transmission fluid and change the sump filter.
He has hit problems when trying to remove the old sump filter from the car. He and I realise that this can be difficult. He cannot get enough clearance between the filter and a cross member on the chassis. He has undone the mountings and jacked the transmission up until it is touching the body of the car and still there does not appear to be enough clearance !!.
My car in still in parts at his garage and he is calling other mechanics to try to find out what the answer is. If anybody has had this same problem and know what the fix is please I would be most grateful..
Many thanks in advance..
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 10th Dec 2009 5:46 pm |
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amondeggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: Telford
Posts: 155
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Thanks Wiggs, I have seen these on the forum before and forwarded them to my mechanic before he started the job. They do not really show how the filter is removed (unless ive missed something?). Thanks for your help
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| 10th Dec 2009 6:00 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
 
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From the loooong gearbox judder post...
garryc wrote:10forcash wrote:BMW gearbox?  don't think so.... ZF maybe 
Did they manage to change the sump pan in the end? last I heard was the crossmember was preventing them getting off due to a vertical pipe at the front of the pan
Just did a sump pan change and double flush on mine  The gtr info says to remove the 2 RH engine mount bolts and raise the mount 50mm to enable removal of the pan. Doesn't work If you jack up a bit more it raises the whole vehicle  You need to remove the bolt from the transmission mount at the rear of the gearbox on the rear cross member. Then it gives enough clearance  as there is a vertical tube in the sump pan on the RH side about 8cm long. After the double flush the rough and hesitant changes disappeared  After an arduous of road trip I examined the oil and it was still a bit dark so I did a drain and refill with engine running  I had just done 80,000km so it is advisable to check oil at 60,000km if you do "High speed driving, Heavy towing or High temperature driving" (ZF web site but they advise 80-120,000km)
Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 10th Dec 2009 7:05 pm |
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amondeggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: Telford
Posts: 155
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I have not seen this pdf before. I think this could be the answer. I will forward on to my mechanic. Again I really appreciate your help.  
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| 10th Dec 2009 7:24 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Sounds like it did the trick, he's picking the car up later Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 11th Dec 2009 3:24 pm |
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amondeggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: Telford
Posts: 155
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Well I have only done a few miles in the car tonight but all appears as it should be with regard to vibrations. The car would judder and vibrate when accelerating hard especially up hill or when towing. I drove the car tonight up some hills accelerating flat out. This before was producing the vibrations and juddering that caused me to consider changing the sump filter and doing a doulble flush. My mechanic has had a bit of a nightmare with this job and has said clearly he would not like to do another again. It was the raising of the right hand side of the engine but this again proved difficult and required 3 people with crowbars to lever both the transmission and engine high enough in order to remove and replace the old filter. My mechanic despite the hours he has spent doing this work was doughtful that this would solve the problem. However from the short test drive I had done tonight the car appears smoother, chages gear better and is (thank god) without the vibrations I had before. I will report back after I have towed with the car which I believe will be the ultimate test. Thanks again to all that have helped especially Bodsy Cheers
You may also be interested in the fact I bought the oil from Millers oils for about £20-00 for 5 litres. BARGAIN compared to the shell stuff that landrover use and exactly the same grade and quality !!
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| 11th Dec 2009 10:44 pm |
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amondeggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: Telford
Posts: 155
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Update, I have had a good hard drive of the car today accelerating flat out up some very steep hills. This before would have caused the car to vibrate and judder. However today I am really pleased to say that the car was faultless.
So my advice to all of you that are suffering from this problem is to carry out a double flush of the transmission and change the sump filter. As I previously mentioned I did not use land rover oils that are rediculously expensive and would appear that the alternatives are just as good?
Please dont ask which garage carried out the work because I know that my mechanic would not want this job again. He made that very clear. He had my car for 2 days to complete the job and could only finish it with the help of 2 other large blokes with crow bars !!!!
All in all I am happy full service and transmission oil double flush and sump filter change £300 including all parts (I did supply the oil at a cost of about £40-00).
Will update again after pull twin axle van up to Peak District for Xmas
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| 12th Dec 2009 5:57 pm |
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DiscoZam
Member Since: 22 Jan 2022
Location: Lusaka
Posts: 13
 
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Hi all,
I have tried searching the forum but couldnt find more details. I would like to replace my transmission pan with OEM. This means I would have to lift the engine mount. How exactly do I unbolt the RH engine mount on a TDV6 RHD? I does not look like there is enough access from below or from the top.
Regards
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| 4th Jan 2023 7:38 am |
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classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 205
 
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If you really want to use an OEM sump and filter that's fine but it is a bit of a faff. FWIW have a look here
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/d3-journey-begins-194444.html
Go to the bottom of page 12 and read on to page 13 you'll find some pictures I took when I did mine. HTH.
While you're in there I would suggest you do the mechatronic seal, bridge seal and tube seals because you'll regret it if you don't.
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| 4th Jan 2023 8:53 am |
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DiscoZam
Member Since: 22 Jan 2022
Location: Lusaka
Posts: 13
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Wow thats some excellent help. I will just try my luck with the metal pan than and hope it will not leak. I have got all the seals ready.
Thanks again
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| 4th Jan 2023 3:12 pm |
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ekwan
Member Since: 24 Apr 2016
Location: P Jaya
Posts: 35
  
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| 5th Jan 2023 4:07 am |
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