Member Since: 10 Jul 2022
Location: Elgin
Posts: 15
Leak or Electrical
My reason for being here is I am not getting much help on the RR Sport forum L320
I went into live values and Test Valves on GAP11D . Each corner started the compressor but only the rear went up . Although I sure on a short press the valve is clicking on something , Its maybe needing stripped. I think if I seek a second hand one .
Tested around the compressor while running but no leaks.
I spent all day looking for and repairing a leak. The push on couplings I bought were leaking , well one of them which I fitted to the top of the airbag, but unfortunately it was compromised by the pipe while fitting. Very tight up there! I t is all back together and working a tiny bit better with a new valve which was checked for leaks before assembling the whole lot back together. The compressor is still coming on too frequently. All seals and desiccant changed.I am going to pull the fuse for ride control overnight and see if any one side of the front axle still goes down , I am not sure if its still air that's causing it as in physical loss and the drivers front can never be raised to the same height as the nearside , unless you raise the whole lot to full height off road and drop it to correct level with the GAP Tool.
So taking fuse out that controls the suspension, the front has dropped by about 30 to 40 cm,They have stayed unequal as well.\i dont know , is it leaks , probably . Especially if the pump keeps bringing the pressure up. So if I have pulled the fuse , can I assume that its ether the front valve block or height sensor after ruling out my new plumbing when fixing leaks. I can test the valves and they do operate with the procedure on the Gap tool.Im sure they are operating as in the morning they are all at 0 percent.
Would one of the valves will be letting Air past porting to exhaust all the time.
10th Jul 2022 10:27 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14152
Hi
Welcome to the asylum
May i ask if u would be so kind plse to fill in ur profile to let us know what year etc model u have
Also what fault codes do u get please , thks
Last edited by gstuart on 10th Jul 2022 10:40 am. Edited 1 time in total
10th Jul 2022 10:38 am
alfapat
Member Since: 10 Jul 2022
Location: Elgin
Posts: 15
HAfter an overnight rest for me and Rangey and fuse in the front still dropped by about 30cm, each different and has always been that way , something telling me a story perhaps?
I got these readings which I selected and notice the voltage was very low to front right height sensor. But would that account for airloss in gallery.
Some help in deciphering all this would be good, I'm confused . Sorry its not a Discovery , maybe should have got one instead of this !
So have stripped back to front right strut and the push on coupling or to be more exact the small length of pipe I cut was allowing air past it. Cut a new length and replaced it , surely this part of the fault will cure this time 3rd time lucky perhaps..
10th Jul 2022 10:40 am
alfapat
Member Since: 10 Jul 2022
Location: Elgin
Posts: 15
gstuart wrote:
Hi
Welcome to the asylum
May i ask if u would be so kind plse to fill in ur profile to let us know what year etc model u have
Also what fault codes do u get please , thks
I cant do the profile bit as my vehicle is a Range Rover Sport v8 L320 2007
The air system is the same.
codes change but more recently C1A20-64(2E) and U0421-81 (2C) MOSTLY THE FIRST
I did find a leak in the same place where I made up pipes for push on couplings, hopefully they are sealed . I am able to check that today and see if the suspension heights have changed.
11th Jul 2022 10:55 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14152
No probs and many thks
Personally after ensuring the other leaks u found were fixed and checked using some soapy water I would check ur reservoir tank, alas they can leak on top where the weld seam is and can’t be seen , easy option is to disconnect the reservoir tank pipe then either vacuum or pressure test the tank , doing that will save u from having to remove it
Can use ur gap iid to deflate the system in order u can safely disconnect the tank pipe
thing I found to make life easier was using one of the garden sprayers that have the long nozzle , allowing u to access the hard to reach strut connections with some soapy water
Also enclosed a chart on what the pressures should be so an easy way for u to compare urs
Hope that helps to give u something to start with , plus not wishing to try and teach u how to suck eggs, but please don’t ever get under the disco without axle stands
Click image to enlarge
11th Jul 2022 12:23 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14152
Plus ref that screen shot of ur sensors , I think the wiring connectors for urs is behind the passenger side headlight , so well worth double checking them along with ur air leaks
I Normally use a multimeter on both sides of connectors , that way u know the signal/ voltage is passing through the connector
11th Jul 2022 12:31 pm
alfapat
Member Since: 10 Jul 2022
Location: Elgin
Posts: 15
Yes many thanks for all your help and suggestions , it gives me a fresh look at things. Yes I've used GAP to deflate twice to get a good look at the front strut and take it down. I have a 4 poster so it helps.
I have sprayed as much soapy water at the tank , but as you suggest t maybe at the top its letting go.
The good news is that with the ecu fuse in overnight the car has stayed up at maximum height pretty much Front Nearside 520mm to 500mm Front Offside 451 to 450
Rear Nearside 525mm to 520mm Rear Offside 525 to 525
Now set back down to normal height. for a monitor, when I did this the fronts dropped to being spot on in guided calculation the rears a little to high I will do the guided once more now that the front will stop LEAKING! Perhaps third time lucky the inner wheel shield will go back and stay on.
As far as pressures go while the gallery was being pumped up and at that time the front must of been leaking it did go up to 1350 kpa but then is stops on diag and settles a lot lower . I notice in that chart there are two configurations . Why is that , do you know please. Is the tank meant to hold pressure at 1500kpa and shut the valve at pump when no longer required.
This all went wrong when I renewed the front set of pipes for the ACE SYSTEM (Dynamic Response)
I suppose history is telling a story. Notice a leak at ace valve block where a new filter was put in with a new O ring . Away and sort now
O ring compromised , now fixed .
so tried guided again and consistently the front right doesn't budge up, it insted goes down , it will go up a little if in off road height as I didn't notice the switch was sitting in that position. So could it be the valve block venting.
11th Jul 2022 2:57 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14152
Hiya
Ur so welcome , please let me have a read through some of the manuals I’ve got , as I know somewhere I’ve got details regarding the dynamic system
In the mean time , would u be so kind to plse
Put the suspension into normal ride height , then measure each wheel from the centre of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel arch liner plse in mm
Then raise the suspension to off road height , remeasure all the wheels in the same way plse, then pull fuse F26 from the engine bays fuse box, leave overnight , then in the morning see if it’s dropped and re measure all 4 x wheels again plse
Apologises for all the questions , thought then we will have a starting point to go from and allowing us to then work through it step by step , more than happy to help as much as I possibly can but just needed a good starting position to go from, hope that’s ok
Ref , The different figures , higher one is whilst the vehicles engine is running , then when the engine is turned off ur hear that hiss from the compressor , that’s basically the reserve amount of air stored in the system so when the engine restarts the compressor doesn’t need to build air pressure up from zero and in doing so reduces the amount of stress on the compressor
Picture below showing the loom connectors that go to the compressor and rear of the vehicle , are these in ur passenger side wheel arch behind the plastic liner , or are they behind ur near side headlight plse , thks
With ur gap iid, have u also taken some screenshots of the compressors max and min PSI readings please
At the end of the day we might also have issues with the height sensors but really need to ensure that any leaks are firstly 100% fixed
Hope this helps and therefore a starting point that we can go from stage by stage
PS, very jealous u have a 4 x post lift and bet that makes life considerably easier
11th Jul 2022 7:31 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14152
This is the type of sprayer I used when looking for leaks, very handy for the strut connections , raised the suspension to off road height , put some axle stands underneath as an extra safety factor
Removed the bottom compressor cover to gain access to the fittings on the compressor , reservoir valve block , etc etc with the soapy water
Apologises meant to ask, what push in fittings did u use please , or were they the Voss ones, many thks
Also have u recently checked the front pair height sensor connections/ wires plse to see if the pins were clean and no broken wires etc , as a side note if they are bad u can get repair looms but no point worrying about that just yet until we check the rest
Once again don’t want any of this to come across in trying to teach u how to suck eggs , fingers crossed will be able to pin the faults down
11th Jul 2022 7:46 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14152
Sorry, Knew there was something else, lol, ur battery is virtually dead at 12,3 Vdc , really needs to be a minimum is 12.6 Vdc with the engine off , so an ideal time to give it a good overnight charge
11th Jul 2022 7:55 pm
alfapat
Member Since: 10 Jul 2022
Location: Elgin
Posts: 15
Ok alot for you to ponder on. I use a ctex most of the time , must be Eagle eyed there but realise the importance.
I'll get results for you reheights over 10 hrs to morrow , but know that they are not correct.
No problem in telling me what's what, I have been using Snoop and soap made up spray..The push on connectors are from local suppliers of Airline and hydraulic suppliers hoses and connectors. 6mm. By re cutting with proper hose ones I redid a connector which was a straight connector to an elbow..
The small joint I used initially was compromised so helped by a new section , seems to have helped so secure of leaks tested a few times now.
Give more info tomorrow.
Last edited by alfapat on 11th Jul 2022 10:20 pm. Edited 1 time in total
11th Jul 2022 9:50 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14152
No probs and sounds daft but enjoy doing things like this with fault finding etc ,will try my best to help all I can
That’s great as those CTEKs are very good , indeed with these landies there so power hungry and when voltages start to drop u can get U codes along with other DTC codes etc , U codes are normally nothing to worry about
As a side note regarding the CTEK , I use my 12s towing socket to charge my main battery , installed a socket on the front of my house, fitted a fuse box behind the boot panel, drilled though the wall into my hallway where my CTEK charger is, so as I pull onto my drive way , plug my extension lead in that I made , saves all that messing around in not having to lift the bonnet etc , sorry I digress which isn’t difficult for me, lol
If after all of this is done and u wish to also do the same with ur towing sockets can talk u through it
No worries regarding the measurements , it’s just so we have a starting point, plus after the fuse is removed and left overnight if it drops and by how much which will help towards diagnostics
11th Jul 2022 10:16 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14152
Last edited by gstuart on 12th Jul 2022 4:13 am. Edited 5 times in total
12th Jul 2022 3:51 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14152
Plus this ref a bleeding procedure just in case it’s useful , alas haven’t got experience with this kind of system , but at least we can try and find the air leak issues
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12th Jul 2022 3:58 am
alfapat
Member Since: 10 Jul 2022
Location: Elgin
Posts: 15
Found those pages on RRsite , so still helpful.I managed to bleed the system while anti roll bar links disconnected and engine running , only problem I had was the left bleed nipple snapped and still havent managed to replace it , however I think all air is out now.
So back to air system , I should have gone out last night , but it was late when I read the thread , and IM a bit under the weather with covid . I will do this today.
I have bookmarked the links you provided earlier, thanks.
By the way Im using the hand held pressure spray Hoselock sell.
So Rr at full height and measured, will remeasure this evening..Meanwhile Gallery pressure went 1350 kpa and switched to this
The pressure has gone below 97 by the way and suspension system orange light came on and switches went off socompressor never kicked in fault was this...
Fuse removed however.
Last edited by alfapat on 12th Jul 2022 8:32 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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