Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: plymouth
Posts: 6525
cant see the point of assing around with this stuff it aint cheap..new part..carry on
31st May 2022 11:31 pm
Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 345
Well, seen as how I can get a blob of Sikaflex for free at my work, and a new propshaft is going to set me back some £4-500, and The Grey Shark has cost me about £4500 in spares and labour over my 8 months of ownership, I'm inclined to give it a go...
Many of the synthetic "silicone" pastes are likely to exceed the performance of the original rubber.
I'm looking to use Tigerseal for a non-D4 job but I only need max. 5cm3 ... anyone know how well it keeps after opening? Best way to store?.
Dean
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2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
1st Jun 2022 9:20 pm
jekyllman
Member Since: 27 Dec 2020
Location: Pocatello
Posts: 42
Giving it a go. Wish me luck 🍀
1st Jul 2022 3:00 am
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 810
^^^^^^^^^^ ask yourself why the rubber has worn out ? all the rear props ive changed have had knackered rear uj's so by fixing the rubber all you are doing is saving a few quid for a short time but putting more loading on the rear diff via the uj
i know what i would prefer to change and i know what's cheaper to change also rear prop on the bay (hardy spicer ) cost me 240 a while ago or if you want to take a chance a cheap chinese can be had for under 150
pay your money and take you choice please excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
1st Jul 2022 8:03 am
highlands
Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5107
"ask yourself why the rubber has worn out"
Is it because it is wafer thin, old and carries a fair bit of weight on it so rips?
I've run mine with Sikaflex for many years and many 10s of thous of miles and have a smooth drivetrain and no issues.
If I get vibes from the prop then I'll replace it.
I have to say that ^ does look a bit messy!
Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
1st Jul 2022 10:02 am
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 810
^^^^^ im glad you've had many thousand miles of trouble free motoring don't usually hear that
fingers crossed for you that the prop doesn't snap and do lots of damage
edit:- could the rubber splits because the uj is shot thus making the centre bearing run off centre please excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
1st Jul 2022 1:59 pm
highlands
Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5107
I would have thought that if the prop is running off-centre such that its caused the rubber to split then it'd be felt as vibration.
I've done the Sika as a maintenance measure more recently...the first one the rubber was almost completely separated. Did at least 30k on it after the repair and never had an issue.
On the current one there was only the smallest amount of splitting of the rubber support so got it reinforced before it got any worse.Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
2nd Jul 2022 12:21 pm
Flatlander
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
eightfoot wrote:
^^^^^ im glad you've had many thousand miles of trouble free motoring don't usually hear that
fingers crossed for you that the prop doesn't snap and do lots of damage
edit:- could the rubber splits because the uj is shot thus making the centre bearing run off centre
Exactly the reason for all the ones I've changed - the centre bearing carries no load 'if everything else is working as intended', it's there merely as a support due to the change of angle.
I had one fail on me years ago on a RWD twin-wheel Transit (the bearing seized and ripped the rubber out of the mount) If I drove at 53mph, all was fine, any more or less and it was knocking on the crossmember asking to come in...
I'm all for cost-saving workarounds, this seems more like a short-term bodge in an attempt to ignore the root cause to me.
2nd Jul 2022 5:50 pm
highlands
Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5107
It carries some load - the bearing has to be supported when securing it in place?
It's constantly pulling on the pathetically thin rubber support all its life and eventually the old rubber gives way, splits and the bearing is no longer properly supported.
I've been running Sikaflex in the centre bearing support for over 10 years now.
Not a short-term bodge for me, thanks.
If I had any noise or vibration from there I'd change the prop...but I haven't so haven't.Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
2nd Jul 2022 7:04 pm
Flatlander
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
The only load is the rotational drag and the lift/drop in the carrier on application or release of torque - far, far less than that on the UJ's. I've changed the rear prop on mine at 140k due to the rear UJ having play in it, there wasn't any excessive drag in the centre bearing but you could see 'stretch marks' beginning to form in the support membrane - this was the same tell-tale we use at work as a trigger for checking the UJ's for binding.
If filling the centre bearing carrier with Tiger Seal or similar works for you, fine. I can't see any paying or warranty customer being happy with it though.
2nd Jul 2022 8:40 pm
Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 345
Is there a nice and easy way of checking if the U/J is on it's way out? I recently did mine with Sikaflex, like Highland. The propshaft itself looks fairly new, but there was a tear forming in the upper part, so I filled it up before it loosened completely.
2nd Jul 2022 9:12 pm
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 810
yup undo the four bolts and check for a notch when its centred please excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
2nd Jul 2022 9:25 pm
highlands
Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5107
Flatlander wrote:
I can't see any paying or warranty customer being happy with it though.
You've obviously not met paying customers on the west coast then!
If I replaced each of the props with split rubber I've had over the past >10 years that'd be 3 x new prop costs and the cost/hassle of replacing them vs about a tenner.
I've had a couple of prop UJs need replacing on other 4x4s I've owned over the years and on each I knew it needed replacing because of noise/vibration.
I've not had that on any of my D3s despite doing this fix on each of them early in my ownership.
Looping back to the beginning of this thread, I don't think spending $250 on a carefully designed 2 piece centre bearing support is worth it! Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
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... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
rear prop on the bay (hardy spicer ) cost me 240 a while ago or if you want to take a chance a cheap chinese can be had for under 150
