tzdisco4
Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Lower Saxony
Posts: 10
  
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Please look in your other thread.
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/b11db87-2a-...20f15fc30d
Connect you battery correct and then check everything else again.
A real battery check can be made with a special instrument when dismounted. It drains a very high current from the battery and measures the resultant voltage drop. If it's too low, the inner resistance is to high. Depending on the drop rate one can decide whether it should be renewed.
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 9th Feb 2022 11:19 am |
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Justme
Member Since: 09 Aug 2015
Location: Pwllheli North Wales
Posts: 104
  
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You are better not using the high drain battery tester as that only tells you the rate at which it can deliver power.
You need to know how much power it actually has.
A CCA tester is better. They are also quite cheap now.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=12v+cCA+teste...nb_sb_noss
Other suppliers available.
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| 9th Feb 2022 11:50 am |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
 
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tzdisco4
Well spotted and thanks for your observation. I will reseat and recheck
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| 10th Feb 2022 12:05 pm |
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Hardware
Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: Hiding under the M60
Posts: 12711
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@sceh
There is always the possibility that, by creating several threads, you dilute the information you get back from the clever sods on here.
Don't be thinking you have several problems. Until you 100% prove it's not the battery, then it IS the battery.
Charge battery with it completely disconnected from the car - doesn't have to be out of the car, they are quite heavy after all.
Check it's showing expected volts.
Check again several hours later ... if it's very similar readings, it's probably healthy (as said in at least 1 reply, the ideal test draws BIG current and associated volts drop, but you probably haven't the kit to do that? )
Next, connect both leads. Measure volts after 10 mins, then again in a couple of hours. If it's dropped significantly, you have a problematic drain.
Measure volts across battery terminals AND positive to engine AND positive to body.
If volts across battery is other than marginally higher than other readings, check earth straps. .
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer  ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
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| 10th Feb 2022 12:34 pm |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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My apologies for the several threads. I had the impression that people no longer read some threads so I launched another and my level of frustration was off the scale. I even went down to the local car crushers two days ago but they have lost their licence otherwise it would be a lump now!
APologies once more and I will try to consolidate things.
all the best
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| 10th Feb 2022 4:25 pm |
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sceh
Member Since: 14 Sep 2011
Location: annecy
Posts: 233
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Still not much further forward. I did the hard reset and charged the battery and reset the BMS and now when I start it takes about 20 seconds before I have no EBA or HDC or DSC and the suspension lowers a bit but it keeps going and I don't have every other light imaginable. If I stop, restart, all is well again!
Looking at the graphs of the charging and battery voltage I get the impression that the alternator output and load drops and then rebounds and it is at this point that the warning lights come on. Could this be that the battery is a bit duff and the temporary drop of the alternator also drops the voltage and this is enough to disturb things?
Any other ideas?
thanks
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| 19th Feb 2022 11:18 am |
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