NJSS
Member Since: 06 May 2009
Location: Catherington, Hampshire.
Posts: 10629
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I cribbed this from someone here, possibly DM but have modified it somewhat:-
Quote:
It might be sensible to compile a list of jobs worth considering if and when one has the body off:-
Front & Rear Belts
Front & Rear Tensioners plus Bolts (In the Kit)
Two Idlers Pulleys Plus Bolts (In the Kit)
Oil Pump Casing
Oil Seal for Crankshaft
Crankshaft Bolt
Consider replacing water pump - flush & replace coolant.
Inspect all brake pipes & replace rear brake lines
Front + rear upper arms
Consider changing intercooler hoses, particularly the 2 small ones with silicon
Turbo actuator rod
Check EPB cables
Autobox filter
Clean in-tank pump gauze
Carefully inspect the wiring for damage, and repair if required
Check rear air conditioning pipes
Check EGRs & turbo & turbo pipes
Check High Pressure Fuel Pump
Clean intercooler & radiator - consider replacing & upgrading intercooler
Check all suspension bushes & shims - takes around 60 seconds with the body off.
Check prop shaft & universal joints
Check cross-over pipe at rear of the engine
Wash chassis & underside of body, rub down and underseal any rust reapply Waxoil where necessary.
Remove the turbo, fit new modified actuator rod. Take out the studs and drill the threads out to 8mm. Use 2x M8 flange bolts to refit. This aids future turbo removal massively, and is also much quicker.
Check fuel injectors & glow plugs
If a manual clean XY sensor and consider fitting new clutch (& flywheel) - 1 hours labour as opposed to 6 to 8 hours.
By 100,000 miles expect to have done:-
Wishbones.
Steering tie rods.
ARB bushes.
Ball joints
Steering Column Universal Joints
Suspension bushes, you can get carried away with these. Most common are the rear uppers and front lowers. Body off makes no difference to front lowers, but the rear uppers are 5 mins a side, as opposed to 2 hours with the body in place. A perfect excuse to upgrade to the RRS arms.
Check the exhaust system, it rarely gives any issues. But, a perfect excuse to consider replacement or upgrade.
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5th Nov 2022 10:26 am |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20786
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Hardware wrote:Mastertech wrote:
I do wonder though why they want the body off for a crossover pipe replacement.
I thought it was do-able with body on until one of the bolts seizes/snaps then you need body off to get access to sort that. Am I wrong?
Correct. It's only 1 boot away from lifting the body anyway, so why struggle
14 hours is a little excessive though My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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5th Nov 2022 10:55 am |
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Ade_S
Member Since: 19 Jul 2018
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 90
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Thanks guys. I've received a quote from another, well regarded, independent specialist that comes in at £1650 inc VAT v's the original quote of almost £2300; think that's a combination of slightly lower hourly rate and fewer hours estimated. Looks like I'll be changing garages!
The car has done 130k miles; is it worth changing the EGR valves at the same time? Seems they're about £600 for a pair. The original garage says they have a slight build up of soot around the spindle arms; but sure if that's normal and how long they typically last! Or how much of a job they are if the body isn't off... MY2012 D4 HSE in Siberian Silver, 1967 MGB
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7th Nov 2022 10:47 am |
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