Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Wow, that’s some awesome looking paintwork there , they really do come up nice , seeing that reminds me I must get on with fixing up my front A bar , only thing I’m not looking forward to is removing the front bumper and drilling the holes for the nudge bar
Have u tried unplugging the Egr connectors to see if one of the pins have been bent accidentally, are all the other connectors been plugged back in that u may have removed, ie, one at the front ref the MAF and MAP sensors , has any of the EGR pins been pushed back in the connector
Would a hard reset help at all, just thinking of things generally , how about giving it a run round the block ??
Hope it’s something simple , plus have u looked at the EGR live data to ensure u haven’t got a faulty new one
Plse let us know how u get on
14th Jun 2021 3:55 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
DWDG wrote:
classic kev wrote:
Whilst faffing about outside this evening the sun on the paint really showed how well it had polished up, the flakes in the paint really popped.
Here's a couple of pics
You can see a deep reflection in the paint and the metallic flakes catching the sun. I was pleased with it so thought I'd share
Added one of mine I took today. It’s just looks so good in the right light.
Look superb there mate
14th Jun 2021 3:56 pm
DWDG
Member Since: 27 Jul 2020
Location: Bedford
Posts: 101
I agree with checking the pins and connectors. Take it for a drive and see whether it improves/changes or flags any other issues.2007 Discovery 3 HSE Lugano Teal
2011 BMW 520d Touring Sophisticato Grey
2000 Porsche Boxster 2.7 Arena Red
2002 Porsche 911 3.6 C4 Cabriolet Artic Silver - sold last year
1987 Porsche 944S Black - sold last year
2006 Discovery 3 HSE Buckingham Blue - sold last year
2012 Ford Grand CMax Panther Black (wife’s) wish we’d sold that instead!
14th Jun 2021 6:01 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 204
Thanks guys, I appreciate the support but I am afraid this is likely to take some tinkering.
I removed the battery and did a hard reset. The I popped the cover to look at the ecu. Pulled the 3 plugs; there was some bluish nastiness under all 3 plugs. I cleaned the pins as best I could, one of them is very fragile and ideally needs replacement but I don't want to go there just yet.
Anyway, a sprayed contact cleaner in there and brushed as best I could and blasted with compressed air then put the plugs back. I disconnected both EGR valves and checked the pins, nothing bent or broken.
I popped the MAP sensor but I cleaned it not that long ago but it is very easy to do so gave it a squirt of carb cleaner and a blast of compressed air then put it back.
Reconnected the battery and hoped all would be well. The engine light was still on,
showed code P0403-00(2C) which is egr but I can't see how, the valves are new. I will scream if I have a duff valve. Used the IID to clear the code but still the engine won't rev and lacks power. It is doubtful it will have enough power to make it up the driveway and if I take it anywhere I guarantee it won't make it back up the hill to home. Stumped!
Any ideas welcomed. Cheers.
14th Jun 2021 6:48 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
That’s. Shame
With the gap iid can u see if the % change on the egrs, did u unplug the MAF connector next to the air filter intake pipe or throttle body connector
Have u got one of the old egr actuators , as in could u unplug urs and plug one of the old ones in to see if it may clear the error , don’t know if it’s possible to do that
Don’t know if this would also effect them but are there any vacuum pipes not put back on or maybe accidentally come off
Or can u get a multimeter onto the end of the egrs to see if and what Vdc u have
Fingers crossed it isn’t a faulty new egr , Plse let us know how u get on
14th Jun 2021 7:04 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Just looked on the gap iid menu, so it seems that u can command them to move
Here’s a screen shot for u , hope it helps
14th Jun 2021 7:28 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 204
Hi gstuart,
I had similar thoughts. Part of the problems is the IID tool does not have the ability to command the egr valves; I know this because last month I e-mailed Gap with that very question and they confirmed that although the I/O menu shows this function it doesn't do anything so you can't move the egr valves that way.
So my next plan of attack will be to have a play around with the MAF and also the egr valves I removed. One is seized solid but the other is fine so I will try plugging it in and see what happens.
If I don't get anywhere fast I will start a new thread on this issue and see if the collective knowledge and experience out there can point me in the right direction.
15th Jun 2021 6:28 am
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 204
Well, well, well... the story of the three wells!
Yesterday I looked at possible causes for engine light and special programs disabled. I did fond an EGR fault code but the valves are new, they've done less than 200 miles! I have found the right hand valve is faulty. Not chuffed!
Anyway, I know you all like piccies so here is what I have found so far...
I looked at the control module behind the battery and wish I hadn't.
Guess a new control module will be needed some time.
Back to the no power, no revs, engine light on, no special programs and general wtf..kery I decided to plug in one of the old EGR valves, I used the one that was still working. I substituted the left hand side first - no difference. OK, so it's not that one then.
I then changed sides and plugged in on the right side, fired it up and all is good! Engine revs fine, no warning lights, special programs working. What a pain in the rear.
Anyway, I tried plugging the the egr back in and sure enough the warnings, no revs and no power returned. I wasn't convinced about having an old EGR valve swinging around under the bonnet until I gather the strength to go in there again so with a bit of "dunno if will work" I removed the actuator from the seized valve I replaced just a couple of weeks ago and plugged in. It works! The question is now whether to replace the whole vale or just swap out the actuator. Best guess is that the cheap pattern EGR valve is not feeding back correctly or has some other internal electrical gremlin. Whatever it is I am singularly unimpressed.
So, here it is, some class Land Rover bodgery!
My next question is, if this doesn't cause the engine light to come on, does it mean I can blank the egr valves and not need the software patch?
15th Jun 2021 2:11 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 204
I lied car has only done 128 miles since I did the egr valves.
I have e-mailed the supplier, will be interesting to see what they say.
Might not get away with the no engine light thing, looks like it will pop back on, IID at the ready! Hey ho, at least it runs and drives! Don't know whether to laugh or cry... it's a Land Rover thing, I know you understand!
The relay I was waiting for has arrived so I can wire up the spot lights to keep me occupied.
15th Jun 2021 3:07 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Hi mate
Quick cover the ECM back up, nothing to see here
Dam it, just what u don’t need, so found some details with regards to the EGR’s , apologises if you’ve already seen it but just thought just in case u haven’t and if it may be useful to u
Plus a pic of the egr wiring, hopefully the company will come back to u with regards to the egr
Maybe it’s a combination of the bad ECM pins , do u have enough room to get ur multimeter test leads on the egr actuators to see if the signal and ground is there
See urs is a 2007 so indeed as u say if u blank them will need the software patch , don’t know how expensive it is but at least u have the gap iid , also surprised it can’t motor the EGRs
Egrs are on page 4
Well hope the above helps and plse let us know how u get on
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15th Jun 2021 7:55 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
classic kev wrote:
Well, well, well... the story of the three wells!
Yesterday I looked at possible causes for engine light and special programs disabled. I did fond an EGR fault code but the valves are new, they've done less than 200 miles! I have found the right hand valve is faulty. Not chuffed!
Anyway, I know you all like piccies so here is what I have found so far...
I looked at the control module behind the battery and wish I hadn't.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Guess a new control module will be needed some time.
Back to the no power, no revs, engine light on, no special programs and general wtf..kery I decided to plug in one of the old EGR valves, I used the one that was still working. I substituted the left hand side first - no difference. OK, so it's not that one then.
I then changed sides and plugged in on the right side, fired it up and all is good! Engine revs fine, no warning lights, special programs working. What a pain in the rear.
Anyway, I tried plugging the the egr back in and sure enough the warnings, no revs and no power returned. I wasn't convinced about having an old EGR valve swinging around under the bonnet until I gather the strength to go in there again so with a bit of "dunno if will work" I removed the actuator from the seized valve I replaced just a couple of weeks ago and plugged in. It works! The question is now whether to replace the whole vale or just swap out the actuator. Best guess is that the cheap pattern EGR valve is not feeding back correctly or has some other internal electrical gremlin. Whatever it is I am singularly unimpressed.
So, here it is, some class Land Rover bodgery!
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
My next question is, if this doesn't cause the engine light to come on, does it mean I can blank the egr valves and not need the software patch?
Just made the pics abit sharper , plus as far as I’m aware 2007 onwards when blanking egrs need the software patch and throttle body butterfly removed , egr pipes left in situ and blanked on the engine block side so mot stations don’t see they’ve been blanked
Hope that helps
15th Jun 2021 8:00 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Also found the ECM wiring numbers for u
Hope it helps
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15th Jun 2021 8:15 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 204
Thanks gstuart! That's very useful.
I suspect a new ECM is expensive, any ideas if a new ECM can be installed using the Gap IID or if it is a dealer only licence to print money kind of deal?
As long as it keeps working I will be happy enough but it looks like it will only be a matter of time!
16th Jun 2021 6:44 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
Ur so welcome snd glad it’s useful
To be honest I don’t know , hopefully one of the other members will know if the gap iid can do it , know Pat at gap is very helpful
Have read of some companies that do an ECM exchange / repair service
Also I got a small dentist kit as it’s perfect for removing small O rings , ie in the valve blocks and with cleaning pins inside connectors etc , found them very useful and wonder if u could use them to clean the ecm pins saving u replacement costs
Hope it helps
Last edited by gstuart on 16th Jun 2021 7:53 am. Edited 1 time in total
16th Jun 2021 7:33 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14120
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car has only done 128 miles since I did the egr valves.
