Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5034
OK so at least you have ruled out the rear block terminal and it's no harm to have given it "the once over" anyway.
However you still have open circuits on the two rear wheel sensors, so I would suggest you take a look at the wiring plugs behind the left hand front wheel arch liner. Particularly the black multi plug found on your MY, it's another known area for corrosion!
Unfortunately you just have to work your way through it, but it's not difficult and you will find it. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
20th Jan 2021 2:01 am
Spookie721
Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: Comox
Posts: 21
Sounds good. What do you mean with "MY"?
20th Jan 2021 2:56 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5034
Sorry, model year!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
20th Jan 2021 3:01 am
Spookie721
Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: Comox
Posts: 21
Good morning from Canada.
A little add on before I keep posting the results from taking the front left wheel off later today.
I noticed, that I don't have a correct engine temperature indication every now and then. It stays at o degrees even though its at 90. The speedometer is not working due to the Speed Sensor, I assume.
When I shut down the engine and restart, the temperature indication works fine again.
Thoughts? Is my instrument cluster going out? Might this be the reason for tall these issues?
Took it out the other day and assured the plug was seated correctly. Looked good.
22nd Jan 2021 4:21 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5034
You'd expect there to be dtc's to support any instrument or engine temp faults. The oil temp sensor is a common failure and is located in the sump on the left side. It's also possible there is a fault with the instrument binnacle, and this too is not all that uncommon either, though more prone with MY 07>.
So are you saying both the block terminals at lhf and lhr are ok?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
22nd Jan 2021 5:13 pm
Spookie721
Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: Comox
Posts: 21
Update:
Checked both LHF and LHR. Plugs looked all good in the wheel arches and I couldn't find any damaged cables/plugs or corrosion/dirt. Gave all the connectors a clean and made sure they are seated and connected firmly.
Then I went back to the front left passenger foot area and took out the cable channel cover and bottom of a-pillar cover again. There I revealed the cables that come out of the the channel and move up to the CJB. Its all dry in the area now after i fixed the sunroof drain plug issue. In there I found a red plug. Looks like a dead end cap. Unplugged it and found some water damage and corrosion. Don't know what this plugs serves, but I it evidence for some water issues. Will disconnect battery again tonight and start cleaning the connector. Maybe I will find more hot spots.
I have added the pic from under the CBJ. Does anybody know what this plug is for. could this be the cause for the problems?
>>cleaned the plug - no change
Different thought:
When I pull the fault codes from the Gap tool I get these failures with the corner lamp circuit, left and right. in addition to the speed sensors left and right not working. Could that be an indication for a specific wire is compromised?
25th Jan 2021 1:41 am
Spookie721
Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: Comox
Posts: 21
Different day - different thought.
EPB isn't working either. Wonder if that is due to the fact that the rear ABS sensors are not sending a signal or is it the other way around? ABS sensors not working because there is a fault in the EPB?
Any thoughts?
27th Jan 2021 5:38 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10672
Or a faulty connector or ground going to rear.
What’s the epb doing ?
27th Jan 2021 7:57 am
Spookie721
Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: Comox
Posts: 21
EPB isn't responding at all. Get the fault right of the start with no action or sound whatsoever.
I will dig into the cable boom under the right front and rear door trim today, again. Considering that there was all that water standing there, should be another option. Saw another link where several connector (tape) of a red cable came undone.
Check for water or moisture under passenger side wiring harness that runs beside the seat under the trim.if there is you have likely lost connection on a three wire connection that dissent grates when exposed to water even if it was a while ago. These connectors are wrapped in blue tape and if you can easily pull these from the tape and there's green powder you've found the problem. These wires I believe are red but check them all then solder and shrink wrap .hope this brings these modules back on line!
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App https://www.landroversonly.com/threads/tra...one.97546/
27th Jan 2021 2:43 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10672
I thought the park brake electric cables were under the car. (Left side)
And wouldn’t expect abs wires inside ( they are white with green or yellow stripe)
27th Jan 2021 2:59 pm
Spookie721
Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: Comox
Posts: 21
Quick update: Overall situation unchanged
Had the car on the lift yesterday and checked all the wiring going to the transfer case. All looked good.
Then on the way home I had intermittent EPB warnings. Light flickering and warning tone for faulty EPB.
Could that we the root cause of all this. Faulty EPB ECU?
I pulled the 30 amp fuse in the engine compartment and had the fault messages reduced to pretty much only EPB related. I have attached the read out pics below.
If it is the EPB, what part in particular is it? could i just disable it for right now and take it off the CAN bus?
I had issues with the EPB in the past. The high pitch squeal when applying it.
Thoughts?
30th Jan 2021 5:10 pm
Spookie721
Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: Comox
Posts: 21
Good morning. Here a short update.
Today I fixed the Park Brake module. Had to remove the spare tire, then the coal filter to the fuel tank gases. All screws came out easily.
Was able to open the PB module casing and took out the motor. Replaced all the gears inside the motor. The little clip holding the spring came off, rendering the motor useless. Fixed and put it all back together. Attaching the cables was a major pain but eventually got them on.
The red flashing Park Brake warning is now gone. But....... all the warning lights do still remain and I am getting the occasional PB warning with tone.
Code reader still reports issues with communications with the PB module. I assume there is a wiring issue to it. ???
Any ideas where the problem area could be? Appreciate all the suggestions you might have.
14th Mar 2021 2:47 pm
niquelarondel
Member Since: 03 May 2021
Location: Genève
Posts: 36
Spookie did you fix your problems ?
18th May 2021 6:35 am
Spookie721
Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: Comox
Posts: 21
Still ongoing.
Getting frustrated.
-I have changed the rear ABS sensors. No change.
-Fixed the broken gears in the Parking brake module. No change.
I finally gave in and dropped the car at the friendly indy.
-He found a broken power supply cable to the Park brake module. Fixed that issue, but all other lights remain.
-He then pursued the ABS module and said there is an issue with the receiving comm. We ordered a new module. No change.
I am really at my end and the indy doesn't seem to have any further ideas. Considering, that there was water intrusion that started all this, I still think that whatever took out the parking brake power must have also done damage to some other part.
So far the indy doesn't thing it has anything to do with the dynamic vehicle control module behind the battery.
Thoughts?
17th Jun 2021 5:05 pm
Spookie721
Member Since: 04 Nov 2012
Location: Comox
Posts: 21
Problem solved
Got the car back from the Indy today. He solved the issue. Definitely nothing I could have fixed. Here is what he wrote up:
PERFORMED DIAGNOSTICS FOR COMMUNICATIONS FAULT ON PARK BRAKE SYSTEM. GAINED ACCESS TO MODULE INSPECTED WIRING TERMINALS AND COULD NOT FIND ANY VISUAL FAULTS. NO VOLTAGE PRESENT AT MODULE. ROUTED NEW WIRE FROM KNOW GOOD SECTION AND VERIFIED PROPER WORKING OPERATION.
ANTI LOCK CODES. PERFORMED DIAGNOSITICS AND FOUND NO VOLTAGE COMING OUT OF MODULE. REPLACED MODULE, NOW HAVE VOLTAGE BUT NO FEED BACK FROM SENSORS. BY PASSED CHASSIS WIRING AND WAS ABLE TO GET REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR TO WORK. SENSOR CONNECTORS WERE NOT MAKING CONNECTIONS EITHER FOR LEFT HAND SIDE. CLEARED CODES AND ROAD TEST ALL OK AT THIS TIME.
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