Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5044
So if I understand correctly you cleaned off the visible oil and after a run it was there again?
If that is so it's seems likely the cooler gasket has failed. If not, and you have not cleaned up the original oil residues you need to do this first! Then road test.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
couldn't clean it all off ... there was some "oil" - well, black fluid - towards the back.
there does look to be new black on the very front parts.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
4th Aug 2020 1:23 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5044
Yeah when the fan kicks in it likely will blast the oil everywhere. You could monitor it for a bit before you bite the bullet, but it does look like there's a small leak in the cooler or the filter housing.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
Looking at the last picture just check that the throttle body is on fully, it looks its set off the housing quite a bit, I have seen these not pushed home fully before. You will need to remove the spring clip to see if its move on further.
I was going to put the car in to get this fixed next week with the idea of getting the throttle body seal AND the oil cooler gasket so car gets fixed in one go, even if I end up with spare bits.
However, rang up local supplier and they tell me that "1356789 Gasket Oil Cooler" is ONLY for TDV6 2.7 ... for the 3.0 SDV6 they say you can't buy just the gasket AND the gasket never leaks, the cooler itself fails
At £190+vat, it's not in the list of parts to buy "just in case it's needed".
are they right ?.
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
4th Sep 2020 4:46 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5044
Yes Dean that's correct, I think it's only available for the D4 with the 2.7 V6, but get the problem confirmed first. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5044
There's a Nissens option if you're so inclined, they do make good quality condensers amongst other parts, but get it checked first as it might be the just the top hose "O" ring that's shot. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
Last edited by PROFSR G on 4th Sep 2020 8:38 pm. Edited 1 time in total
4th Sep 2020 8:29 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5044
The "O" rings seen in the LR drawing are all available!!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
4th Sep 2020 8:38 pm
DiscoJeffster
Member Since: 27 Feb 2016
Location: Perth
Posts: 204
As Flack said and I've told you, your leak is from intake oil leaking past the throttle body seal where the "duct" - the 90 bend bolts to the throttle body. It's plain to see!
You also don't have the duct fitting correctly as noted in your photo which is why it's leaking. You need to loosen everything off and get the spring clip to seat home fully.
From my experience, under a magnifying glass I would bet yours is slightly cracked allowing it to flex out of place all the time under boost as mine was. Once I replaced the duct I've not had a problem since. This was a regular occurrence to me. I'd put it back on correctly and it would blow itself skew again.
I am confident the issue isn't the oil cooler from what I'm seeing. Start with the duct and o-ring as it's an easy job and then progress.
As it happens, it's not raining so had a look today.
Yes ... the joint is open enough to let crap out.
I've released the clip but can't see how to get enough leverage to get the joint closed.
What did you use?
6th Sep 2020 4:24 pm
DiscoJeffster
Member Since: 27 Feb 2016
Location: Perth
Posts: 204
You'll see a bolt on the top of the throttle body. If you loosen this off it will allow a little bit of wiggle to get the throttle body to move - might help to get better alignment. There is also a bolt on the front of the intake "duct" which you can loosen to also allow that to move a little to get the alignment better to reseat it.
If someone has been at it before, you might find it's a bit out of whack. You might also find the spring clip in the wrong way - I'm pretty sure the prongs face to the back of the car. Use a flat blade screwdriver to push the bottom of the clip all the way in.
If it's like mine was it'll keep popping until you replace the duct and o-ring together.
LR014212 - Intake duct
LR008353 - O-ring
ok ... between rain and hospital trips, found time yesterday to tackle this.
DiscoJeffster wrote:
There is also a bolt on the front of the intake "duct" which you can loosen to also allow that to move a little to get the alignment better to reseat it.
THAT is the bit of the process I was missing. why on earth they thought hiding the bolt was a good plan, I do not know. Could easily have been at the top of the assembly so a bit more obvious.
DiscoJeffster wrote:
You might also find the spring clip in the wrong way - I'm pretty sure the prongs face to the back of the car.
They were already pointed towards back of engine but I had a good look and I can't see that it matters. they are just there to hold the ends of the clip outside the slot and the sides of the slot are same height above the main part all the way round. Anyway, the only thing I couldn't be certain of was that with prongs forward would the (UUK) offside one foul the tubes that run down in the gap.
what are the tubes btw ?
in terms of throttle-body joint, it's gone from this ...
to this ...
I'm actually amazed at how far apart it was yet didn't seem to have any effect on performance. Probably won't have quite as clean emissions now ... and no more auto-rust-proofing
Whilst I had the engine cover off, spotted this clip had broken.
On inspection, it was quite brittle. I removed the part that should clip to the protuding stud but - because i didn't want to damage the tube as i don't know it's function so don't know if it's an easy fix or not.
I then used rubber sleeves/packings and a p-clip to hold the tube in as close to it's original place as possible.
Quick look round found another couple of brittle/broken clips and sorted using ty-wraps..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
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on the very front parts.
... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
