Member Since: 11 Jan 2018
Location: Hull
Posts: 152
Front Diff Shims
Hi guys,
I've just rebuilt my front diff and when I come to put it back together, the units is too tight and when I bolt it up, the unit locks hard together. It would appear there are some tolerance issues with the new bearings and races in the diff carrier bearings. This has resulted in me needing some thinner shims for those two bearings.
I've tried looking everywhere but I can't seem to find anyone who can supply the shims.
Help!!
Jonathan
15th Jun 2020 2:07 pm
Admirable
Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Fife
Posts: 1034
Is this for the pinion bearings?
15th Jun 2020 2:54 pm
jonathanrichards
Member Since: 11 Jan 2018
Location: Hull
Posts: 152
No, it's for the diff carrier and crown wheel bearings.
It may be an out of spec bearing of course.
I was supplied a bearing from EAC parts with number B64000 in place of the Timken Y32010XM.
So maybe that's a little out of spec...
15th Jun 2020 5:24 pm
Admirable
Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Fife
Posts: 1034
Looking at the exploded view diagram there is only one shim and it's for the pinion bearings?
I could email you the pdf if you wish?
There is a preload spacer between the bearing and the seal?
15th Jun 2020 5:34 pm
jonathanrichards
Member Since: 11 Jan 2018
Location: Hull
Posts: 152
That's not what's in the two diff's I've done.
There are shims on all three fixed bearings.
15th Jun 2020 10:02 pm
matgriff
Member Since: 16 Sep 2019
Location: Newcastle Under Lyme, Staffs
Posts: 171
Hi, I'm interested in this. I have just bought a used front Diff from a 2010 RRS to fit into my D3 as the current one is moaning/whining... also the filler plug is all rounded out, so I can't check or replace the oil.
I was planning to pull the replacement unit apart first and check & replace the two bearings where the half shafts go, and also the oil seals as good measure, using the informative info I've read on this forum.
I would expect that new bearings are manufactured to the same exacting tolerances as the originals, and so would be a direct replacement ??
I don't plan on touching the pinion bearings at all.
Hopefully the whole new diff is in good shape, seller stated it's done 100K miles.
I'm expecting that on mine it's just the "common" left side bearing that's noisy, but I thought I'd refurbish a spare first and then just swap them to save time & hassle .
Please let me know what you find with yours.
Thanks
Mat2005 TDV6 SE Auto
Cairns Blue
16th Jun 2020 8:17 am
matgriff
Member Since: 16 Sep 2019
Location: Newcastle Under Lyme, Staffs
Posts: 171
Quote:
Hi guys,
I've just rebuilt my front diff and when I come to put it back together, the units is too tight and when I bolt it up, the unit locks hard together. It would appear there are some tolerance issues with the new bearings and races in the diff carrier bearings. This has resulted in me needing some thinner shims for those two bearings.
I've tried looking everywhere but I can't seem to find anyone who can supply the shims.
Help!!
Also, could you confirm what bearings you used ? I've read through all the posts on here, and it seems that there's a bit of confusion about one of them.
The imperial bearing is a Timken LM603049/LM603011 that seems to be in every diff that people have stripped down.
On the other side, it seems to be different (from what I can read) between a D3 & D4 diff, even though the diff themselves are interchangeable and notionally the same.
Some people have an original Timken XAB32010XM, this doesn't seem to be listed, but an XAB32010X is the same with a higher speed rating.
Some have stated to use a Timken 32010X, which is very similar but has a slightly different lead in on the back side of the cone.
Someone on here stated that the D3 he stripped had the 3201X and a D4 had the XAB32010XM ?
I think the safe way is to strip down the diff and see exactly what's fitted and replace with the same.
Maybe this is the cause of your problem ?
thx
Mat2005 TDV6 SE Auto
Cairns Blue
16th Jun 2020 12:59 pm
capt_slow
Member Since: 18 Jun 2020
Location: Michigan
Posts: 4
Jon,
Finally created an account here to post this. I rebuilt my front diff a couple of months ago and ran into the same issue with it locking up when I tightened everything done.
You have the wrong bearing on one side, you don't need or want different shims. In fact, if you take a look where the 32010X is on the diff carrier, you'll likely find that it isn't fully seated at the bottom. The inside radius on the normal 32010X bearing doesn't fit on the carrier properly. You can check this at timken's CAD site here:
You'll find dimension "R" - cone to backface "to clear" radius is larger on the XAB part. Use the same shims as you previously had, but you'll need to get the right bearing. I don't believe the cone dimension changes.
There's a lot of conflicting info with people saying they got one to work or that it varies. The big thing is to compare that radius on the bearing with the one on your diff. With the wrong part, it's extremely noticeable when you know what to look for
18th Jun 2020 3:48 pm
matgriff
Member Since: 16 Sep 2019
Location: Newcastle Under Lyme, Staffs
Posts: 171
Thanks for the heads up on this Capt_Slow..... I'll be sure to double check this when I tackle mine.
Mat2005 TDV6 SE Auto
Cairns Blue
19th Jun 2020 8:00 am
matgriff
Member Since: 16 Sep 2019
Location: Newcastle Under Lyme, Staffs
Posts: 171
Well my replacement RRS front diff arrived on Friday. I opened it up to examine the state of the bearings and give it a general clean up.
Good news, everything is in great order, so I'll just put it back together with new seals and fresh oil and hopefully it'll be good to go.
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