Member Since: 14 Oct 2013
Location: 'Sunny' Zomerset
Posts: 9424
Thanks for posting all this, really enjoying the thread
Best of luck with it all Iggy/Ieuan
Current LR =
2015 RR Sport Autobiography
&
1992 Land Rover Defender Camper
- Gone but not forgotten:
MY10 D4 GS
MY05 Disco 3 'S'
MY14 FL2 HSE manual in Blue
MY15 Disco 4 HSE Lux in Santorini Black
MY08 Disco 3 SE manual in Buck Blue
1960 Series 2 88" (No idea why I sold it!)
Here is the latest version of the drivers side (North America) engine mount, the hole is where the 2nd knock sensor is going to be mounted using a M10x1.5 to M8x1.25 38mm long step stud (hard to find).
Just as an aside in case someone else is doing this engine change, the dipstick and oil pan from the LR3 need to be used on the Ranger engine, slightly larger oil capacity...
Edit July 27: Changed M8x1.75 to M8x1.25 and ordered Ford WPT-1231 pigtail repair kit1967 Ford Bronco 289 V8 (1968)
1974 Toyota FJ55 3.9L I6 (1975)
1984 Chev K5 Blazer Camper 400 V8 (1989)
2006 Nissan X-Trail Bonaventure 2.5L I4 (2007)
2007 Land Rover LR3 4.0L V6 (2019)
Getting ready to torque up all the loose bolts, picture is of proper Ford tool for cam alignment checking at TDC #1 compression, both slots below centre line and parallel with top edges of cylinder heads, engine side knock sensor trialled, tomorrow is injector testing and flex plate mounting, hope to start installing on Wednesday...
1-2-3 side with Ford tool
4-5-6 side alignment at same time1967 Ford Bronco 289 V8 (1968)
1974 Toyota FJ55 3.9L I6 (1975)
1984 Chev K5 Blazer Camper 400 V8 (1989)
2006 Nissan X-Trail Bonaventure 2.5L I4 (2007)
2007 Land Rover LR3 4.0L V6 (2019)
Engine is installed, torque converter bolted and starter motor installed, oil temperature sensor with 12" extension leads on the plug, the main harness to the starter motor was installed over the custom made drivers side (North America) motor mount, had to remove the OHV cover to easily install starter motor and get at the torque converter bolts. Just running off to the local speed shop to finalize assembly of the Moroso pre oiler assembly then starting in on the project Monday. Photo is 2008 Ford Ranger 4x4 XLT 4.0L V6 installed in 2007 LR3 (Discovery 3) SE.
I can't understand why more people don't use pre oilers. I don't have experience of the Moroso pre oiler but I have used the Canton Accusump. which is excellent.
I believe that use of a pre oiler both helps you sleep at night, and probably doubles the life of bearings etc..
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
The people over on the Ford Explorer forum that have the 4.0L V6 SOHC all swear by the use of pre-oilers (I should say "many") to keep the dreaded "chain tensioner disease" at bay. One person apparently had over 300K miles on his engine and still no problems, which is rare for this particular engine. I notice that other Land Rover engines also have this problem, but am starting to believe that extended oil changes may also contribute to the chain tensioner problem with any sophisticated modern engine, regardless of make. I only use synthetic oil and change oil and filter religiously every 10K km (6K miles). This engine that we removed had very dirty oil and both front and rear cassettes were broken, but the rear timing gear had slipped and all 3 exhaust valves were bent from hitting the pistons, a pretty good argument for the pre-oiler combined with on time oil changes. We didn't go to all this work installing a new(er) engine just to have to remove it again, it has been a real bear of a job, but we did learn an awful lot about this particular LR3 (maybe we didn't really want to know)…
Edit: to add "I should say many" 1967 Ford Bronco 289 V8 (1968)
1974 Toyota FJ55 3.9L I6 (1975)
1984 Chev K5 Blazer Camper 400 V8 (1989)
2006 Nissan X-Trail Bonaventure 2.5L I4 (2007)
2007 Land Rover LR3 4.0L V6 (2019)
Last edited by enb54 on 2nd Aug 2019 9:02 pm. Edited 1 time in total
I too do an oil & filter change mid-way between JLR's recommended interval.
I believe that manufacturers, not just JLR, recommend extended oil change intervals to reduce the cost of running their cars over their first three years of life (say 36k miles); thus increasing their attractiveness to corporate buyers & leasing companies. They do not consider the private owner who may run cars to 90k miles & beyond.
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
2nd Aug 2019 5:43 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Hi
Apologises for the daft question plse, are pre oilers used on LPG engines or is this another different design plse
Many thks as always in advanced and very appreciative
Ps, great job there
2nd Aug 2019 5:47 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6771
NJSS wrote:
I believe that manufacturers, not just JLR, recommend extended oil change intervals to reduce the cost of running their cars over their first three years of life (say 36k miles); thus increasing their attractiveness to corporate buyers & leasing companies. They do not consider the private owner who may run cars to 90k miles & beyond.
Latest LRM had an article of a 60 plate FFRR TDV8 with 327k miles (~526k km). The conclusion of the article was that the engine was in very good shape as was the rest of the car.
2nd Aug 2019 6:50 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6771
This engine replacement transplant thread is very interesting.
Apologises for the daft question plse, are pre oilers used on LPG engines or is this another different design plse
Many thks as always in advanced and very appreciative
Ps, great job there
Pre-oilers or "accumulators" began to be used in race cars about the mid 1970s I think, to compensate for the effects of forces acting on the oil in hard acceleration and cornering, causing the dreaded "dry bearing" and subsequent early engine failure. Others thought about this and wondered if pre-lubricating an engine at start would improve the engine's lifespan, and a whole new industry was born. The short answer is yes, any internal combustion engine can benefit from pre-lube devices...1967 Ford Bronco 289 V8 (1968)
1974 Toyota FJ55 3.9L I6 (1975)
1984 Chev K5 Blazer Camper 400 V8 (1989)
2006 Nissan X-Trail Bonaventure 2.5L I4 (2007)
2007 Land Rover LR3 4.0L V6 (2019)
Last edited by enb54 on 2nd Aug 2019 9:38 pm. Edited 1 time in total
Enough of this... I don't want to hijack your excellent thread.
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
Just posted this to another forum, but this is my initial ('cause I'm not quite sure about the low cost tech) try at the Moroso plus lower tech solution for pre-lube solution... Looks like BIG trouble in River City for uploading right now, will try to edit later... OOOps... Got it...1967 Ford Bronco 289 V8 (1968)
1974 Toyota FJ55 3.9L I6 (1975)
1984 Chev K5 Blazer Camper 400 V8 (1989)
2006 Nissan X-Trail Bonaventure 2.5L I4 (2007)
2007 Land Rover LR3 4.0L V6 (2019)
4th Aug 2019 2:54 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Hiya
A massive thks for the great explanation and link , will check it out for some interesting reading
As always most appreciated
Plus 1 , apologises also didn’t wish to hi jack the thread
You are welcome, the Ford Explorer and Ranger (4.0L SOHC engines) forums have a lot of information on several different makes of accumulators, basically a cylinder with a movable piston inside, slightly pressurized air on one side, oil on the other side, with a manual valve or electrically operated solenoid valve to prelube the engine or to automatically supply oil when the pressure drops (race cars and dragsters). Am just checking out my solenoid control timer, will post a photo later...
Edit: Added photo of solenoid timer board to open solenoid releasing oil, then start engine and fill accumulator, finally the timer removes power and shuts the solenoid valve, likely about 2 minutes, won't know until engine is running.
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