Member Since: 07 Mar 2015
Location: Dorset UK
Posts: 234
Tailgate actuator wiring
Hi All,
SWAMBO's D3 has given up the ghost on the rear tailgate (upper). I cannot hear the actuator operating when pressing the button on the handle and double pressing the dash. Also I cannot hear the lock operating when locking/unlocking which I guess stops the tailgate opening.
The only thing I did yesterday was to replace the jack on the RH side which I though maybe disturbed a connector. Anyone got a tip or preferably a wiring diagram before i have to under take surgery on the rear panel.
Thanks in advance guys Owning a Discovery 3 is like dating a model.. a firm body and shape, wow.. the ride is fantastic > for this your wallet can take a pounding and you worry about being deflated at any time...
2009 Model D3 HSE
16th Feb 2016 3:23 pm
longclose
Member Since: 07 Mar 2015
Location: Dorset UK
Posts: 234
So re-tried the double button process this morning and realised you need to hold for a few seconds, hey presto it opens (well with two people as mentioned!).
At least I can now check the release button for corrosion etc..Owning a Discovery 3 is like dating a model.. a firm body and shape, wow.. the ride is fantastic > for this your wallet can take a pounding and you worry about being deflated at any time...
2009 Model D3 HSE
17th Feb 2016 7:25 am
longclose
Member Since: 07 Mar 2015
Location: Dorset UK
Posts: 234
So found the culprit after doing some research. The clue is there is no actuator noise, however double pressing the lock/unlock button for 3 seconds or so releases the upper tailgate with someone tugging at the same time. All of these are in different threads but thought I would consolidate my findings which can be moved to faults and fixes later.
The faulty culprit
Click image to enlarge
The temporary fix
The micro switch was stuffed, so I removed the handle switch (and gasket) assembly by pulling the rubber gasket cover out and using a screwdriver to prize the two locking side tabs to release it.
I then cut the two black wires as close to the switch as possible, then stripped the cables in the handle (keep them apart at this stage).
At this point I wanted to program the LR 3rd button which by default activated the headlights. I tried programming using the emergency release which did not work (as I found out on an earlier thread).
So to program, lock and unlock the car just to reset any issues from the failed switch. Hold down the 3rd LR button whilst at the same time touch the two bared wires together. The actuator will activate and should find the 3rd key will now operate the tailgate. This is my temporary fix, PS. dont forget to tape the wires up separately!
I managed to get the old switch out by cutting the resin on the top and levering down the sides with a stanley blade BE CAREFUL! I then used a screwdriver to push the switch out, it actually parted in two with half having to go through the top and half coming through the bottom.
I searched the web high and low and could not find a replacement OEM switch that would click straight back in. I have just purchased this switch which hopefully my Brother will bring on the plane on Sunday for me!
Hoping that I can just araldite this one in and solder the wires to the existing black ones. Will let you know, if it works a fiver and 15 minutes work!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350819414084Owning a Discovery 3 is like dating a model.. a firm body and shape, wow.. the ride is fantastic > for this your wallet can take a pounding and you worry about being deflated at any time...
2009 Model D3 HSE
17th Feb 2016 2:30 pm
longclose
Member Since: 07 Mar 2015
Location: Dorset UK
Posts: 234
So after my brother arrived in SA from teh UK this morning he delivered the £5 switch. after a quick examination it looked as though it would fit after the tabs were cut from the side.
Cutting tabs
Click image to enlarge
Next step was to file lugs that fitted the OEM switch from the housing on the four corners
Click image to enlarge
After filing insert switch and bond with RTV silicon
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Leave for a few hours then solder to cut wires
All in all if you have the switch a half an hour process no need to replace the whole unit or even remove it all for a fiver!
I leave it to the moderators to post in faults and fixes...Owning a Discovery 3 is like dating a model.. a firm body and shape, wow.. the ride is fantastic > for this your wallet can take a pounding and you worry about being deflated at any time...
2009 Model D3 HSE
22nd Feb 2016 8:03 pm
frenchy
Member Since: 05 Dec 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1036
Well done!!!
I'm swapping the switch over at the weekend for a new replacement - albeit a much cheaper Ford Focus unit 2000 D2 TD5 - big red tractor no longer with us
2006 D3 - no longer with us and sadly missed
2010 D4 alas no more, but a lovely colour (Nara)
2016 D4 about to depart
2022 DS nearly...........
18th Mar 2016 12:30 am
ianb4310
Member Since: 22 Feb 2015
Location: Gainsborough
Posts: 513
I'll try this too!D4 rear lights
Beanie grill
Dynachip remap
4x4 info
HSE Wheels
13th Nov 2016 3:08 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10367
I think you can get a complete switch assembly for a ford for about £4 on ebay.
13th Nov 2016 6:26 pm
ianb4310
Member Since: 22 Feb 2015
Location: Gainsborough
Posts: 513
Do you have a link please ?D4 rear lights
Beanie grill
Dynachip remap
4x4 info
HSE Wheels
13th Nov 2016 6:43 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10367
Haven't tried one myself but worth ago at that price.
I did the switch replacement the hard way a few years back in 2012.
It does have the advantage that it uses the newer better corrosion / waterproofed, (I hope), RR Sport switch with a JAE connector. The Japan Aviation Electronics connector part numbers and the RR Sport switch numbers are provided in the link files.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=219752005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
14th Nov 2016 4:00 am
ianb4310
Member Since: 22 Feb 2015
Location: Gainsborough
Posts: 513
Fitted a new switch still no joy !!! What fuse would it be ?D4 rear lights
Beanie grill
Dynachip remap
4x4 info
HSE Wheels
Your problem starts with the fact that there is no fuse as one might reasonably expect.
The switch connects effectively to the door lock "computer" and the computer decides what will happen.
This is not as bad as it sounds however.
The way you test your switch circuit is to touch the two conductors that feed the new switch together. You either get a clicking and release of the upper door hatch or not. Also I presume the switch for the lower tailgate works as it should?
If the lower tailgate unlatches as it should but there is no clicking sound from within the lower tailgate area when the wires connected to the hatch switch above the license plate are touched together, then perhaps the upper hatch unlock mechanism is not working. Also, there can be clicking sounds from within the tailgate but no release. That means the gear motor is working but the cable is broken - very common.
The link below relates to the fixing or replacement of the upper hatch release mechanism which is located within the lower door.
This is the link to the wiring diagram for the locking unlock system.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/displayima...&pos=72005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
I have the same issue (faulty switch) and the below is an absolute stroke of genius. Thank you so much. My 3rd button now opens the tailgate. Prior to this I had a long piece of batten in the car, would hit the double buttons whilst nudging with the batten from inside the car.
Awaiting the arrival of a replacement switch.
longclose wrote:
The temporary fix
So to program, lock and unlock the car just to reset any issues from the failed switch. Hold down the 3rd LR button whilst at the same time touch the two bared wires together. The actuator will activate and should find the 3rd key will now operate the tailgate. This is my temporary fix, PS. dont forget to tape the wires up separately
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
for this your wallet can take a pounding and you worry about being deflated at any time...
