Member Since: 03 Nov 2013
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 64
Offside locks not locking
Hi, I have a problem with my door locks. The offside (drivers and passenger doors) don't lock anymore. The near side doors and boot lock on the key fob button but the offside don't (and the little plastic lever next to the handle does not move). This fault vaguely coincided with me stuffing the car through a barbed wire fence earlier this year and doing damage to the nearside rear door handle. Perhaps this could be the fault (though I did replace that mechanism about 5 years ago)?
I think I'll need to replace the nearside rear door handle as it is insecure but wondered if anyone could shed light on the offside door locking issue ?
Thanks
Will[/u]
23rd Jul 2018 8:44 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13919
Hi
Only thing I can say is remove ur inside door panels just in case they fail and lock closed
Last edited by gstuart on 23rd Jul 2018 9:10 pm. Edited 1 time in total
23rd Jul 2018 9:00 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4485
Replace the lock assembly. Lots of threads on here about lock removal. I did my N/S front last week. Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
23rd Jul 2018 9:03 pm
Rodent
Member Since: 03 Nov 2013
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 64
Rrhool, do you think I should replace the driver mechanism or the rear nearside?
Thanks
23rd Jul 2018 9:12 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10602
One lock relay in the cjb is split left side and right.
Test for power by the door plug.
Will post wire colour tomorrow
23rd Jul 2018 9:24 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10602
check the black wire with green stripe going into the doors.
check a right door and a left door and see if the wire function is the same.
It should briefly go to + on locking or unlocking (not sure which). Let me know!
If the function is different left to right, you need to trace it back to the fusebox connector behind the glovebox
23rd Jul 2018 10:20 pm
Rodent
Member Since: 03 Nov 2013
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 64
Thanks Pete K.
I’m a bit thick when it comes to electrics. So do you mean that i should set my meter to dc volts, then
Put one test lead on the green/black and the other test lead on ground. Then press the lock button to see
If i get a voltage response?
24th Jul 2018 8:04 am
snoz78
Member Since: 14 Jul 2018
Location: northwest
Posts: 5
I would start with the rear lock and see if you can free that one. Think they are cheaper to replace than the drivers one. I changed my front nearside a few weeks ago. Think about £100 for genuine and £50-60 for oem. Easy to change.
If they are split does that mean there are two fuses?
24th Jul 2018 8:27 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10602
Rodent wrote:
Thanks Pete K.
I’m a bit thick when it comes to electrics. So do you mean that i should set my meter to dc volts, then
Put one test lead on the green/black and the other test lead on ground. Then press the lock button to see
If i get a voltage response?
That is correct. It should briefly show about 12V.
YOu may need to press unlock
Do it on the working side first so you can understand what its doing.
And then see if the wiring is ok on the faulty side.
Snoz 2 relays
24th Jul 2018 10:59 am
Rodent
Member Since: 03 Nov 2013
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 64
Thanks Pete k,
Will I need to remove 2 door cards to get at wires on both sides or can I get at them where the wire goes into the door (at the hinges??)
thanks
24th Jul 2018 12:12 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10602
I'm hoping by the hinges.
Note to self. (drivers)
green stripe: + on unlock and + every other lock press (not deadlock)
purple stripe: + deadlock
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