Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13977
turbo question
hi
apologies in advance for the daft question
turbo limp mode has come up, which checking on the iid comes up p132 , until i can at least rule out a stuck actuator or the small intercooler hose for any splits is there any way to unplug the turbo actuator as a temporary measure please
was on the motorway today and it went into limp mode twice, only up hills as it dropped down a gear ,
had to get onto the hard shoulder very quickly
around town etc it’s fine , just so bloody dangerous when all of a sudden looses power
if it is the turbo will try and do it myself as i did get a quote a little while ago from the dealers and they want just over £2,500 , that’s why i thought i would ask if it can be disabled just for some breathing space in case i do have to replace it
will do some searches of who u guys go to for turbos, fingers crossed it’s not , shame it’s not a D4 where u can change just the faulty actuator motor complete with the turbo still in situ
thks again
6th Apr 2018 8:25 pm
johnlad
Member Since: 02 Dec 2016
Location: blackpool
Posts: 408
You could try some turbo cleaner, used for sticking vanes. Best is forte turbo cleaner,
6th Apr 2018 8:36 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13977
hi john
bless u for that , is it sprayed directly into the air cleaner with the engine running plse
is typical land rover , just about to start on getting all the suspension finished and the landy thinks that’s not enough for me to be going on
i did get the actuator software added so it motors the actuator arm when the ign is turned on and off, maybe it’s just sticking ??
meant to add i heard for the first time today and small whistle , just before it went into limp mode, so wondering ref split hose, but alas all speculation until i get eyes onto it
thks again and will get a tin
just quickly , is it above 2,500 the turbo comes in plse , cheers
Last edited by gstuart on 6th Apr 2018 9:02 pm. Edited 1 time in total
6th Apr 2018 8:58 pm
Oswiperus D3 Decade
Member Since: 02 Apr 2010
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
Posts: 1597
When I had P132 (over boost) unfortunately it was the turbo at fault and like you it happened when pushing it on the hills or towing. I learned how to get around it by using command shift to drop a gear or two when towing on the hills. The actuator arm was free moving so decided it must have been the stepper motor/servo on the turbo. I eventually plucked up the courage to change the turbo and all has been good for the last 4 or 5 years.Stu
2016 D4 Landmark current
2022 Defender D300 SE Gone
D4 2014 XS Commercial - Gone
D4 2016 hse lux montalcino red - Gone
D3 2005 se java black - current
D3 2005 base manual - gone
D2 1999 TD5 E white - current
6th Apr 2018 9:02 pm
johnlad
Member Since: 02 Dec 2016
Location: blackpool
Posts: 408
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13977
Oswiperus wrote:
When I had P132 (over boost) unfortunately it was the turbo at fault and like you it happened when pushing it on the hills or towing. I learned how to get around it by using command shift to drop a gear or two when towing on the hills. The actuator arm was free moving so decided it must have been the stepper motor/servo on the turbo. I eventually plucked up the courage to change the turbo and all has been good for the last 4 or 5 years.
hi
indeed that’s what i’m also fearing with it being the turbo, am just coming up to 100,000 miles
will be starting again replacing my front air struts, drop links etc and thought that would be an ideal time to remove the inner wheel arch, finish off the dinotrol and then get the heat shields out if the way so i can have a better look at the turbo
also got silicone intercooler hoses and some T bolt clamps
will try some of the forbes turbo cleaner , ensure the actuator arm is free and hose then at least i know ive checked everything else and move onto the turbo
shame it couldn’t be bypassed in order it just stopped the dangerous limp mode
been reading up on how hard it is to change the turbo in situ , does look challenging to say the least
may i ask did u also replace the turbo yourself please
see there’s quite a few turbo companies around
thks again for the reply
6th Apr 2018 11:40 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13977
many thks for the link and the reviews look promising
must admit when it goes into limp mode on the motorway it certainally gets ur attention pretty dam fast
will get some of that and run a few bottle through , know it won’t be a pleasant job replacing the turbo, but in once sense at least i can see others have replaced it on there driveway so there’s hope yet, lol
thks again for the heads up
6th Apr 2018 11:43 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20802
Never, ever seen a TDV6 with sticky internal vanes. Every single time, it has been the external linkage that has Been seized
No amount of fuel additives will cure it. Seeing as you will be working in the wheel arch anyway, give the actuator a wiggle
Worst case, if it does need a turbo, you can easily knock £1k off the dealers quote by going to a decent Indy My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13977
Hi
many thks ,
shame if that’s the case of not being able to just replace the complete actuator in situ , but then read somewhere that if it was possible it has to be set up on the bench
i might be lucky and indeed be the actuator arm sticking , does have the software that motors the actuator over when the ign is turned on and off
will know more once i can actually see it properly and go from there , but at least i know there’s a few things to try
hopefully it isn’t but if it’s comes to it will try and replace the turbo myself, famous last words
7th Apr 2018 9:14 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10620
nothing you can unplug to improve things
It's probably not the electric actuator, but the mechanical part seized.
Does anyone know if they are worse when the turbo is upto heat or when cool ?
Good tip about using the command shift to down change
7th Apr 2018 10:28 am
camelrock
Member Since: 11 Oct 2008
Location: north yorkshire
Posts: 446
I changed the turbo on mine on the drive. They are a pig to do, I was lucky as the car was only about 4 years old at the time so things came undone but as they get older seized/corroded nuts/bolts just add to the fun. The job cost me about £450 which was the cost of the new turbo which I got from midland turbos I think (it was about 10 years ago) as I’m sure you realise the bulk of the cost is labour
7th Apr 2018 11:00 am
Oswiperus D3 Decade
Member Since: 02 Apr 2010
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
Posts: 1597
I took the body of mine to change the turbo as I'm lucky enough to have a lift so decided to do a few other bit and bobs while the body was off.Stu
2016 D4 Landmark current
2022 Defender D300 SE Gone
D4 2014 XS Commercial - Gone
D4 2016 hse lux montalcino red - Gone
D3 2005 se java black - current
D3 2005 base manual - gone
D2 1999 TD5 E white - current
7th Apr 2018 10:01 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13977
Pete K wrote:
nothing you can unplug to improve things
It's probably not the electric actuator, but the mechanical part seized.
Does anyone know if they are worse when the turbo is upto heat or when cool ?
Good tip about using the command shift to down change
hi pete
many thks, always the learning curve with these,
tried that going up a few hills and decided not to play ball
7th Apr 2018 10:15 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13977
camelrock wrote:
I changed the turbo on mine on the drive. They are a pig to do, I was lucky as the car was only about 4 years old at the time so things came undone but as they get older seized/corroded nuts/bolts just add to the fun. The job cost me about £450 which was the cost of the new turbo which I got from midland turbos I think (it was about 10 years ago) as I’m sure you realise the bulk of the cost is labour
thks, will have a look at there website
indeed won’t be looking forward to doing the job, never know i might be lucky , split hose or actuator arm sticking
7th Apr 2018 10:17 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13977
Oswiperus wrote:
I took the body of mine to change the turbo as I'm lucky enough to have a lift so decided to do a few other bit and bobs while the body was off.
that’s cheating
if it comes to it i was actually thinking what it would cost to have a crane company come and lift the body off, but think that would seriously put a few bob onto the final outlay
did ring round some local companies if they rented out lifts but no go, due to insurance etc
nearest one is north london which isn’t any good
wouldn’t mind so much ref the turbo if it wasn’t bleeding dangerous how it cuts out into limp mode on the motorway
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