Member Since: 09 May 2014
Location: Blackpool
Posts: 156
31st Dec 2017 4:23 pm
salmoner
Member Since: 09 May 2014
Location: Blackpool
Posts: 156
Flack wrote:
I had a customer who mtried to start his car when it was in gear and it blew this fuse, some early ones dont even have a fuse so just bridge it to get you going if your stuck.
Flack
Oh don't we know about that big fuse Mick sure as hell that was the problem
I have seen a few cables chafe against the diff casing, which causes a dead short, blowing the fuse instantly...
I wouldn't expect the fuse to blow immediately, without attempting to crank
.
If the fuse is blowing straight away, unless the starter motor is stuck in the ring gear and has resulted in the solenoid being held in (Don't see this TBH) the power should be off the starter - so sounds more likely to be a cable shorted out.
Quote:
Checking resistance from cable to chassis shows high resistance value.
If this is the case, then it won't be blowing any fuses!
If you mean its approaching zero Ohms, then depending on the value could indicate where the short is.
But to blow a 400A fuse, you have to be way above 400A, so the resistance has to be under 0.03Ohms.Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
_________________________________________________
Disco Picture Website Here
31st Dec 2017 5:11 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
get under the car and follow the cable.
its bolted to the front of the engine
31st Dec 2017 5:58 pm
fhb22266
Member Since: 11 Jul 2014
Location: Oban
Posts: 36
Finally discovered the source of the problem. Not the starter but chaffed positive cable running around the diff. I was starting to remove the starter which seemed like it would come out no problem after getting the fuel cooler and bracket off, when I noticed a small blob of melted copper on the diff next to the cable. Wouldnt have spotted it from straight under could only see from an angle, see pics. Temporary insulation applied to wire and reconnected with a jump lead, Engine started first time.
Ordered used cable from a breakers as apparently the new part comes as part of the loom for £700 so a used good spare will do for me.
Thanks to all for your suggestions, it really helped me get to the problem from a panic situation.
Good result. Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
_________________________________________________
Disco Picture Website Here
2nd Jan 2018 11:31 pm
fhb22266
Member Since: 11 Jul 2014
Location: Oban
Posts: 36
A quick update...
Replacement cable arrived and now installed in car. Removing the old one and installing the replacement was no easy task as it snakes down the left (facing the engine) side across the bottom front of the engine next to steering rack and back up emerging in the nest of cooling and power steering pipes before going to battery box. So it took a good 2 to 3 hours of swearing and pulling.
One thing I would say is there seems to bit of a design flaw. My cable abraided where it crosses in front of the diff. The replacement cable which came from a broken Disco was starting to abraid in the same place (but hadn't gone through the protective outer sheath). After emerging from the cable bracket on the bottom of the engine there is nothing to keep it from touching the diff. Our solution was to install a heavy duty cable tie to a bracket 3 or 4 inches above and pulling it tight which lifts the cable up and away from the diff. The bracket is part of the engine so it shouldn't move. I would advise everyone who has the bottom plates off to inspect the cable and check it's not rubbing like mine was and add the cable tie if needed. I meant to take a quick photo of our modification but it was all back together before i remembered.
Forbes.
6th Jan 2018 10:10 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
be nice if this was a sticky
27th Jan 2018 6:46 pm
fhb22266
Member Since: 11 Jul 2014
Location: Oban
Posts: 36
Hi Pete, yes, I don't know how many Disco 3s could have this cable wear problem, but the second hand cable I bought to replace my burnt through one was showing signs of exactly the same problem. The addition of a heavy duty cable tie has made me more confident it won't happen again, but without anything I think I would end up with the same problem again because the cable is so close to the diff.
Who decides if a topic can be sticky?
28th Jan 2018 12:35 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
Mods decide.
You aren't the only one to have this problem in January!
I inspected mine today.
Tube was significantly worn thru. So much so that I wasn't going to touch it with the battery connected!
28th Jan 2018 5:46 pm
XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
For those that have checked this, do you think there s there any scope to getting an inspection cam in anywhere to avoid taking plates off the bottom?
Sounds like this is becoming one of those “must check” issue for D3’s
Andy
28th Jan 2018 6:22 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
Unlikely.
When the large plate is off for an oil change you can see it.
28th Jan 2018 7:37 pm
fhb22266
Member Since: 11 Jul 2014
Location: Oban
Posts: 36
Pete K wrote:
Mods decide.
You aren't the only one to have this problem in January!
I inspected mine today.
Tube was significantly worn thru. So much so that I wasn't going to touch it with the battery connected!
Wow! Are you going to have to replace it?
Sounds like this is a big problem then!
28th Jan 2018 9:04 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
Finally Did mine today.
Thankfully it wasn't through the condute, though there were serious marks on it.
28th May 2018 8:38 pm
XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
,
forgot all about this and only did an oil change 2 weeks ago!
Oh well, at least I know how to get the plates off now.
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