mronions
Member Since: 22 Feb 2016
Location: Darlington
Posts: 69
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Can I have my oil back please? |
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I had a new oil pump fitted on my 57 plate Disco a couple of weeks back alongside a minor service. All done by a chap who's looked after my cars well for a good few years. He's not a Land rover specialist, but he had his own Disco 3 for a good while, so he's in the know.
Job went well with the exception of the fan being a bit tricky to remove due to some rather aggressive refitting when the belts were changed at the last service.
So the car was all good until I got back from a 120 mile round trip to York at the weekend to find the back windscreen was a bit...oily. On investigation the whole underside of the car was pretty oily. In fact the engine has dumped all of its oil on the A1 at some point and I've continued without noticing.
I put a couple of litres of oil in and took it to a friendly garage for a look this morning and they rightly said that without clearing off the film of oil covering everything they can't guess at where the oil came from (although we eliminated the filter as the problem - I think) so given that I am going to have to book it in for a full investigation in the coming days, what are likely things that could have gone wrong in an oil pump replacement and service that causes all the oil to fall out? My shortlist currently includes the crankshaft oil seal an the pump gasket obviously but I'm looking for other pointers and ideas. Could my spanking new pump have such good pressure that it's blown something else?
Wherever it's coming from it takes less than 10 mins to dump the fresh oil back out into the undertray.
I'd take it back to the original guy, obviously, but he's a 120 mile drive away and I'm not up for footing the recovery costs since it's not driveable. He's said he'll stump up for any remedial work needed to fix something he caused, so the main thing I lose out of this is time with my car.
So for now that car is on the drive quietly crying into an oil drain pan, a piece of carpet and the gravel.
Your suggestions please. ***GONE*** 2007 XS Manual in Wet Weekend (Stornoway Grey) ***GONE***
EGRs blanked and deleted | RLD wheel protector | RLD aerial mount
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22nd May 2017 3:40 pm |
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mronions
Member Since: 22 Feb 2016
Location: Darlington
Posts: 69
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...at least my oil pump casing is safe though. ***GONE*** 2007 XS Manual in Wet Weekend (Stornoway Grey) ***GONE***
EGRs blanked and deleted | RLD wheel protector | RLD aerial mount
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22nd May 2017 3:42 pm |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
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Front crank seal fallen out. Had a couple. Always seem to fail shortly after fitting
After comparing an OEM and a genuine seal, I now only fit genuine, and never had an issue since My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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22nd May 2017 3:57 pm |
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MikeBob
Member Since: 19 Sep 2016
Location: Pretoria
Posts: 105
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I second the crank seal leaking (from experience)
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22nd May 2017 4:01 pm |
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hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1482
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Isn't OEM and genuine the same thing, less fancy box.
Andi.
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22nd May 2017 7:46 pm |
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mronions
Member Since: 22 Feb 2016
Location: Darlington
Posts: 69
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Extraordinary response folks. At least I know I'm on the right lines when I send it in. Could save me precious hours of "investigation" before work can start.
Now, any tips for removing oil from the entire underside of a disco? ***GONE*** 2007 XS Manual in Wet Weekend (Stornoway Grey) ***GONE***
EGRs blanked and deleted | RLD wheel protector | RLD aerial mount
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22nd May 2017 8:54 pm |
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hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1482
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So, OEM not always exactly as genuine less box.
DM
Andi.
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22nd May 2017 9:26 pm |
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mechtrev
Member Since: 05 Mar 2017
Location: N Notts
Posts: 70
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OEM = original equipment manufacturer
Genuine = OEM changing spec, (I do it all the time when I change supplier)
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23rd May 2017 12:42 am |
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mronions
Member Since: 22 Feb 2016
Location: Darlington
Posts: 69
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So this is the part that was fitted:
http://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/1102415-c...2058-p.asp
Could someone help me out as to whether I'm looking an an OEM or Genuine part? And if I'm looking at OEM, where can I get a Genuine replacement? ***GONE*** 2007 XS Manual in Wet Weekend (Stornoway Grey) ***GONE***
EGRs blanked and deleted | RLD wheel protector | RLD aerial mount
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23rd May 2017 9:18 am |
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trailhound
Member Since: 27 Aug 2015
Location: Colchester
Posts: 697
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That's interesting, it the first time I've seen the seal installer and guide appear underneath as related products. Are these essential for a successful install?
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23rd May 2017 9:35 am |
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Chrisholly31
Member Since: 21 Aug 2013
Location: South West
Posts: 67
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I'm due to change my oil pump next month, having read your post I've now ordered the genuine seal. I found it in E-Bay from QP Online, it was £12 incl free p&p, and does look different to the AF one I've ordered. I'm sure you'll be able to get it elsewhere for less. The part no on the listing is: 1102415. Thanks for the heads up on your experience (and to DM for the info on the seal), good luck with the clean up. 57 Defender 110 XS TDCi
55 Discovery 3 TDV6 ‘S’ Manual, re-homed in the West Country, lovingly maintained by Woody32
63 Discovery 4 SDV6 XS (Best of the bunch).
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23rd May 2017 9:43 am |
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mallo
Member Since: 10 Feb 2009
Location: Jersey
Posts: 351
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trailhound wrote:That's interesting, it the first time I've seen the seal installer and guide appear underneath as related products. Are these essential for a successful install?
Hi trailhound, the bit I find interesting on the Advanced Factors web site is the fact that you have to leave the seal for 4 hours before running the engine.
Having been fitting seals for the the last 30+Years I have never really had any problems until we overhauled a compressor about 2 months ago (have done loads of them in the past) and this one compressor leaked oil badly (almost to the point that you would say there wasn't a seal fitted) after speaking to the supplier who spoke to the manufacturer I was told to leave it overnight?!?
So we did, and ran it the next day and although it wasn't 100% dry it was much better, I thought I would run it for a bit longer and the leak got progressively less (I think a combination of heat and the pressure it took up).
So there must be something in leaving it for a while, you learn something new every day.......
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23rd May 2017 12:36 pm |
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defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1420
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The Victor Reinz seal is the exact one I fitted to my genuine pump. It comes with a plastic sleeve to install the seal over the crankshaft to prevent any damage during installation.
Victor Reinz are OEM manufacturer who supply to car manufacturers so a very good quality item.
Modern oil seals are ptfe based and not rubber and last considerably longer than the rubber seals.
They do not have a memory effect like rubber that springs back to shape after deforming that's why you have to be careful in installation and why you have to leave it for a few hours for it to regain shape around the crank.
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23rd May 2017 1:43 pm |
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jetmech
Member Since: 22 Feb 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 269
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I fitted a genuine seal and left it overnight before starting the engine, but it still leeaked!
I thought that I had been careful, but you obviously need to be extremely careful!
Still on the upside the car is getting some extra underside protection and the oil level has not dropped appreciably. Simon.
2008MY Dicovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual
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23rd May 2017 3:43 pm |
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