Member Since: 16 Jun 2010
Location: SW London
Posts: 717
The LED's clip in just behind the holes so if you have them you will see with a torch. They are small and there is no existing loom just the dummy plug. The lights come as a loom and the routing is intuitive once the door card is off and supported with a knee. (It does not need to be removed completely). It took less time to fit the lights in the 4 doors than it did to carefully prise the bright door handle trims off of one. Whole job around 40 minutes.
D3 11y, 425k km - sold, miss it though (MAR, DNK, NOR, SWE, SCO, WAL, MUD ...)
9th Feb 2017 5:03 pm
dalespitfire
Member Since: 14 Jan 2016
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 81
This is what I see in the grab handle. Just looks to be an empty slot. Am I right or can someone please just pop out and take a pic of theirs so I can see what I should have?
Wonder if the old fella that had it before had em unplugged?
Click image to enlarge
Looks like the only way to settle this one is the door card is coming off!
9th Feb 2017 6:41 pm
Soldierboy
Member Since: 27 Jan 2016
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 728
Mine feels like that but haven't had chance to have a proper lookGod created heavy armour on 06 sept 1916, on the 7th the devil stood to attention!
Fuji white D4 MY11 GS 3.0 SDV6 MODS:
SMD LEDS INSIDE, SIDE LIGHTS, REAR FOG AND REVERSE
OEM SIDE STEPS
STAINLESS STEEL SCUFF PLATES
RUBBER MATS
SHORT ROOF BARS
RETROFITTED CC
BLACK HUBS & DUST CAPS
GLOSS BLACK GRILLE, SIDE VENTS AND WHEELS
BLACK BADGES FRONT REAR AND STEERING WHEEL
MUD GUARDS FRONT AND REAR
GLOSS BLACK DOOR HANDLES AND LETTERING
Not enough time to write a full write-up,
but here are the pictures before
Click image to enlarge
and after
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Cardboard completely removed (did it on the first door on the front, realized you could do without removing (and braking stuff )
Click image to enlarge
Shows you how the wire/foam goes ...
The ones on the second row are easier ..
The LED with small part that points upwards is for the opener are, the one that looks like a trident is for the grab handle area.
In the front, the one that has the longest wire and is the broadest is for the large storage compartment.D4
Disco4.com sticker
D3 11y, 425k km - sold, miss it though (MAR, DNK, NOR, SWE, SCO, WAL, MUD ...)
9th Feb 2017 9:10 pm
mjom89
Member Since: 13 Sep 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 593
Is anyone able to tell the part numbers for the bits required for a 2016 model?
Thanks!
16th Jul 2019 9:05 am
jonno1
Member Since: 16 Jun 2010
Location: SW London
Posts: 717
NP, enjoy the installation and the result D4
Disco4.com sticker
D3 11y, 425k km - sold, miss it though (MAR, DNK, NOR, SWE, SCO, WAL, MUD ...)
16th Jul 2019 6:08 pm
mjom89
Member Since: 13 Sep 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 593
Chobby wrote:
However when i was unclipping the door handle cable the white plastic pieve snapped. The handle works ok but need replacing really just cant find how to do it! Lesson learnt on that on unfortunately.
I started this on mine today - thought I would remove the whole door card so I could see clearly how it worked and I too managed to break the same white piece of the door handle cable! Did you ever fix yours Chobby?
Now I know how it works and what goes where, I will do as others have done and leave the door card connected! I am please with the result of the first one, other than the breakage!
6th Aug 2019 9:26 pm
M3bobby
Member Since: 21 May 2018
Location: Sleaford, LINCS.
Posts: 857
Mines broken, it doesn’t do much other than hold the cable in place while card is fitted. Mines been broken for at least a year with no adverse affects.
6th Aug 2019 10:25 pm
mjom89
Member Since: 13 Sep 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 593
In that case, mine can stay broken too!
I completed the passenger door today. Now I know what the cable route is and what I am doing, I left the door card attached. Much quicker and less risk of breaking anything!
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