Member Since: 31 Jan 2012
Location: Canterbury
Posts: 132
Prospeed Rock slider fitting adivce
Hello,
Been looking at fitting the prospeed sliders to my discovery this afternoon and have encountered a few issues.
A) replacing the door seals. Is it possible to remove the old seals in tact with out having to remove the plastic trim?
B) Any good methods for removing the yellow clips from the chassis? any tool thin enough to get under them appears to not be strong enough to remove them. They are incredible well in there! Any ideas appreciated.
C) I assumed there would be bosses or washers to hold the rocksliders away from the paint. I have had mine line X'd and am concerned about this finish up against the paint work on a brand new car, and with regard to warranties.
Thanks in advance for any advice on the above!
Ben
29th Oct 2016 8:44 pm
Dudleydisco
Member Since: 20 Jun 2014
Location: York
Posts: 853
When I fitted mine, the yellow plastic clips in the bodyshell are next to impossible to get out in one piece, so they just got sacrificed! If you want to put the original trim back on, just get hold of a bag of new clips and replace them D4 MY14 XXV - RLD/IID BT
D4 MY13 HSE Lux - RLD/IID BT
P38 RR - Sad parting
110 - Even sadder parting
S3 88" - Still going strong after 23 years of ownership
29th Oct 2016 8:49 pm
BAZ8046
Member Since: 26 Feb 2010
Location: Chatham
Posts: 278
Hi Ben, I found the easiest way with to remove the old seals was to slide them out.
If you get a plastic trim tool in between the seal and the plastic door trim you can make enough room to slide the seal out.
I didn't have much luck pulling them straight off as they are very stiff.
The rears are easier to do from the front edge of the door.
The yellow clips like to break and are hard to get out in one piece.
If you give them a tap sideways with a flat blade screwdriver and hammer they either pop out or break.
About half of mine came out in one piece.
The other couple of things that I checked with Prospeed were the correct way round to fit the new door seals and the torque for the bolts.
The seal fits with the bottom edge of the seal pointing outwards and the bolt torque is 25Nm.
I used Robbie's guide which is excellent
Hope this helps.D4 2016 Landmark, Waitomo Grey.
D3 2005 HSE, Bonatti Grey, now sold but still comes back for servicing.
Defender 2002 Td5 Commercial, had a hard life but slowly being restored.
I only work so I can afford to repair my Land Rovers!
29th Oct 2016 10:46 pm
spikekellyrm
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
1 my seals were old and brittle, I found the best way was to insert a new sharp wallpaper scraper in, and split it in two, then tear the two halves of the seal off.
2, two flat headed screw drivers from opposite sides, under the edges where the little lines are from the mould they were made in, most of mine snapped but after a while this method got the best results
3, I wouldn't worry about the paint beneath the slider, when they're removed the original plastic sill trim will need to go back on anyway. I used a layer of dinitrol beneath mine as per Robbie's guide.
Any snags, PM if needs be
29th Oct 2016 11:13 pm
bw_306
Member Since: 31 Jan 2012
Location: Canterbury
Posts: 132
Thank you very much for all your replies.
Got one side on today, but one bolt will not go in. If we put the side bolts in loose first, you could only get half of the bottom bolts to line up.
With the bottom in loose first then jacking up, I managed to get all bar one bolt in. But this does all seem under pressure due to the jacking?
did anyone have to remove the rubber grommets in the sill at all? not seen this mentioned in instructions or on any posts on here. I would rather not remove them as they cover the holes and maybe offer some paint protection? but maybe they are enough to put the holes out of line.
30th Oct 2016 9:18 pm
Dudleydisco
Member Since: 20 Jun 2014
Location: York
Posts: 853
When ProSpeed fitted mine for me, all the grommets were removed. It enables the sliders to fit flush with the body. Having removed them a couple of years later, there was no sign of any damage to the bodywork or any crud getting onto the holes. D4 MY14 XXV - RLD/IID BT
D4 MY13 HSE Lux - RLD/IID BT
P38 RR - Sad parting
110 - Even sadder parting
S3 88" - Still going strong after 23 years of ownership
30th Oct 2016 9:45 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I leave the grommets in and the trick to getting the bolts in is to fit them all loose, thereby giving you some flex, before running them all down.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
I also couldn't get a bolt in. The rear of the middle pair on each side. I thought maybe the line x was restricting the alignment ever so slightly. It felt if I applied any more force I'd have snapped the bolt so left them. Big squirt of wax in each hole and they've been fine without it.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
