GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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Gerbur wrote:i wish i had known about this system when i had my d3.
It works on the D4 too! Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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23rd Apr 2011 2:53 am |
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Gerbur
Member Since: 27 Mar 2011
Location: Townsville
Posts: 7
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Thanks Graeme. I don't have an immediate need for it, and would prefer not to tinker with car yet. Has anybody had any experience with cv joint wear running at larger angles when lifted? Any suspension warranty claims? 2011 sdv6 hse le
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23rd Apr 2011 2:11 pm |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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I totally understand the need vs warranty issue. I will probably wait until no more warranty on the gbox before fitting a pseudo paddle switch to bump-up the gears without going into sport mode even though its only tapping into 1 wire. However I would have no hesitation in fitting an RRS steering wheel with paddles if I got one at the right price. Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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23rd Apr 2011 9:08 pm |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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~Rich~ wrote:Good idea - A limp home +100mm
Rich has kindly produced a revised installation & calibration instruction guide for the updated version (1.1). It can be downloaded from http://www.box.net/shared/zzgi1qs5rt - thanks Rich.
Note that with recovery mode enabled, +30 provides the normal Llams +50 lift (about on-road height with the forced lowered height) and +50 provides double +50 lift (about off-road height with the forced lowered height).
It is possible to connect a momentary switch to the calibration pins so that recovery mode can be enabled without having to open the module box. The switch would need to be well out of the way because if bumped with Llams OFF, the calibration process would be started, even with the ignition off. This disables Llams height changes and waits for the -20 and +50 settings to create new calibration values, so unless the module was unplugged from the loom before the +50 setting, calibrations are eventually going to be cleared, leaving the driver wondering why Llams no longer works. A proper calibration is all that's required to fix it though.
Thanks again Rich. Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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25th Apr 2011 8:51 pm |
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~Rich~
Member Since: 16 Mar 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 628
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No problem Graeme,
Glad to be of assistance for such a great device with continuing development.
Downloads of PDF files currently at 1064!
Jeeze I wish I was getting a royalty for every one of those. 2014 SDV6 HSE White, LLAMS Height Controller, Tinted Glass, Tuff Ant Sliders and 18" steel wheels, Safari Snorkel, Rhino Rack Platform, ARB Air Compressor, Custom Drawer and storage unit -http://www.box.com/s/jem0ilac3cner2mexq64 UHF CB, 4x4 Intellegence RWC, 120ltr Long range tank, Rock Sliders and Compressor protection plate Beanie grill, De Tango.
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1st May 2011 5:48 am |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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That number is so out of proportion to kits sold that I wonder what's the reason. I can understand people who are mildly interested in fitting the kit wanting to know what's involved, but that many - ??? Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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1st May 2011 8:49 pm |
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Preacher
Member Since: 15 Aug 2009
Location: NE Victoria
Posts: 141
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Graeme
Can you supply this switch set up or at least wire it in so I can use a special switch (similar to those that arm nukes , with the cover onit) wouldn't be happy with the alternative of bumping it accidentally
dj
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8th May 2011 12:29 pm |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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I don't have any sockets for the pins. PC cases with front panel USB ports have sockets that plug onto pins on the motherboard, so an old case can be robbed to make a lead for a switch. Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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8th May 2011 1:24 pm |
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Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
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Hi Preacher,
If you review your post, you'll see how asinine it is to quote ALL of someone's post before asking a simple question.
Best Wishes,
Peter The Bearded Dragon
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9th May 2011 12:21 am |
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Preacher
Member Since: 15 Aug 2009
Location: NE Victoria
Posts: 141
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asinine
is that better!! maybe when I'm as clever as you - I'll work it out
dj
ps with respect - lesson learnt
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9th May 2011 12:45 am |
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Preacher
Member Since: 15 Aug 2009
Location: NE Victoria
Posts: 141
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Graham
thanks for the quick delivery of the updated version - fitted it up very easily - I didn't fancy the idea of pulling the black box apart to activate recovery mode so I fitted a power lock so that to activate the recovery mode you insert the key, turn it and it returns on a spring so all it does is make contact and turns itself off. To save pulling the cab to bits again I installed the lock by my right leg facing me in the side panel - easy enough to get to but inconspicuos to the untrained eye.
I know this was a quick fix for you or should I say fast fix - done in a few days - but to me it's made the Llams unit a real life saver in remote travel. If the suspension system fails - and it can be caused by the simplest of things (this week a blown rear tail light sent the system into shut down (to normal height) - should this happen off road with a van on behind - could be a very serious recovery. My last shutdown in the Flinders with the said van was caused by my steering wheel sensor throwing the strop with my alignment sensor??. However this fix was serious and needed a fair amount of front end suspension work when I got home - on this occasion the Llams unit gave me offroad height while the LR side of things was at on road height - got home OK albeit a little earlier than planned.
I've had a bit of a play around with it this arvo and have now manually achieved 'Extended mode' simply by initiating 'recovery mode' while LR is in offroad mode and Llams is switched to +50 (I think that's how I did it) I tried to duplicate it but the compressor needed to cool down and then got busy with work so will play around tomorrow a little more. Isn't this what we wanted for ever - just in case!!!!
Owning a D3 comes together with the doubt of trouble free running in remote areas - regardless of how much you love it - there's always a greater chance of breakdown than with LC or Patrol with the resultant long hall home somehow. You may not agree with me personally YET but as with each of us 'time will tell'
This additional feature of the Llams kit (I believe it's a FREE upgrade as I've not been told anything different) adds tremendously to the security of the suspension component on the trip, just as keeping the servicing up, and taking spare parts etc, using appropriate tyers and having offroad driving experience.
I am very impressed.
Thanks Graeme - it seems you've only just started.
dj
ps pics in my gallery
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11th May 2011 11:53 am |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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Thanks DJ, and yes the upgrade is free. The key-lock switch is a clever way to avoid inadvertant triggering of calibration mode yet have the switch accessible if its needed. Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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11th May 2011 8:47 pm |
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garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
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Where can you buy one of these key switches - a great idea so that a switch is not accidently activated. I was going to use a switch with a flick up cover over it (like an arming switch) but a key switch is much better idea.
Garry
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12th May 2011 12:19 am |
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Preacher
Member Since: 15 Aug 2009
Location: NE Victoria
Posts: 141
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garrycol wrote:Where can you buy one of these key switches - a great idea so that a switch is not accidently activated. I was going to use a switch with a flick up cover over it (like an arming switch) but a key switch is much better idea.
Garry
Garry
Being in the security industry, I had one lying around.
Some computers use them but you should be able to pick one up from a locksmith (he may have to get one in for you but they are readily available) bight be an idea to print out the pic of the lock off my gallery for reference
dj
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12th May 2011 12:25 am |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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Look at Jaycar parts SM1027, SM1030 and SM1034. I think SM1034 (barrel key, switch spring-loaded to OFF) would be my choice, subject to seeing it in the flesh. They're about $10 individually, hence expensive compared with a little push-button switch but would certainly prevent accidental or mischievous clearing of calibrations or unintended extra height.
Edit: It appears that SM1034 is currently a 2 posiiton rather than a momentary switch. The local Jaycar outlet is trying to find out whether its a labelling or a switch supply problem. Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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12th May 2011 3:15 am |
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