Nessie, thanks for the great pics. It is very clear to me how the lights are mounted.
Drivesafe, good comments, I will see if I can find someone that has roof lights fitted. Probably not a D3, I seem to be the only one in the dutch LR club that is modifying his D3... But there are plenty of D2's and RR's around that have lights fitted.
If your light bar is removable, how do you connect teh wiring? Did you fit a waterproof connector somewhere? I would like to have the option of removing the roof rack and the lights when required, so I need some kind of connector in the cabling...
Thanks for your help guys, much appreciated! 2006 Zermatt Silver TDV6 'SE' Auto, Mantec sump guard, Frontrunner roofrack, Lightforce 140s, split charge system and... a Jetboil.
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TFC, I have been thinking about bumper mounted lights too. I admit that the LR bumper mounted lights look very nice, but I don't care much for the A-bar. Problem is that LR lights are ridiculously expensive, and I dont like the drilling in the bumper. Also, roof rack mounted lights look very 8) , which offfsets the impracticality up to certain point
Is the glare a big problem, even with decent spot lights? Is there a difference between brands/types w.r.t. glare? 2006 Zermatt Silver TDV6 'SE' Auto, Mantec sump guard, Frontrunner roofrack, Lightforce 140s, split charge system and... a Jetboil.
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Last edited by Beaker on 28th Aug 2007 11:01 pm. Edited 1 time in total
28th Aug 2007 10:58 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
there will be a few D3's in Morocco with roof lights and waterproof connectors to enable the rack to be removed
sure you'll have a few minutes to have a look round 8)
Ooooh, but then I need to be patient for a while still..... 2006 Zermatt Silver TDV6 'SE' Auto, Mantec sump guard, Frontrunner roofrack, Lightforce 140s, split charge system and... a Jetboil.
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28th Aug 2007 11:02 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
as above, see for yourself - but the pic below illustrates my point nicely
Chris Tyler's modified grille could be a solution for you you don't have to use the LR lights, the switch can be bought seperately and wired without interference with the CJB
I see your point.... Could a different type of lights give better results/less glare?
I was thinking about a separate switch anyway. I want three positions: permanently off, permanently on, and on with high beam. This should be easily achieved with a relay, although the actual installation of the wiring could prove a bit tricky. What would be the best location for the switch?
Where are those waterproof connectors for the roof lights fitted? In the roof rails, or is there a better place? 2006 Zermatt Silver TDV6 'SE' Auto, Mantec sump guard, Frontrunner roofrack, Lightforce 140s, split charge system and... a Jetboil.
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28th Aug 2007 11:14 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
those are the Warn lights.... yep, different lights give different results, but all give some 'bounce' to some extent
most of the rack connectors have been fitted in the space between the tailgate seal and the rear lights although a couple have succesfully been installed using the 'A' pillars as the cable route and the scuttle panel as the connector point
28th Aug 2007 11:47 pm
drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
Hi 10forcash, I think you will find Rally cars put the lights on the front for both aerodynamics and to keep the centre of gravity as low as possible.
Hi again Beaker, my lights a fixed to the single 3/4†square steel tube that just slots into place and is held there by two nuts and bolts.
All the lights have there cables made up into an 8 wire loom that simply lays down one side of the windscreen and runs into the engine bay via the back edge of the bonnet.
I have all the relays and an 8 way plug near the battery and the loom from the roof just plugs in and the plugs don’t need to be water proof.
The whole thing take no more than 3 minutes to fit or remove.
As to the lights being mounted at the front of the roof and lighting up the bonnet, you could take a page from the railways experience of this type of set up and put shades under the lights to block light shinning on the bonnet. See the pic below.
2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
29th Aug 2007 12:21 am
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
drivesafe wrote:
As to the lights being mounted at the front of the roof and lighting up the bonnet, you could take a page from the railways experience of this type of set up and put shades under the lights to block light shinning on the bonnet. See the pic below.
sorta proves my point
yer, rally cars have the lights in the bonnet pod for a few reasons - although a flat lens is a flat lens (and therefore creates drag) wherever you place them, the main factor is the trailing edge of the pod reducing the turbulence after the lights. having driven and maintained group N rally cars some years ago, the received wisdom was that 'up front' lights were more effective and fog lights were only any use less than 300mm above the track surface.
29th Aug 2007 12:43 am
DG Site Moderator
Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50955
drivesafe wrote:
for both aerodynamics and to keep the centre of gravity as low as possible
As if either make a blind bit of difference on a D3
BTW why is the engine on it's side 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
29th Aug 2007 12:49 am
drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
DG wrote:
drivesafe wrote:
for both aerodynamics and to keep the centre of gravity as low as possible
As if either make a blind bit of difference on a D3
Exactly my point, you really can’t compere a rally car to a D3.
DG wrote:
BTW why is the engine on it's side
The engine was on it’s side because it had been working hard and decided to lay down and have a rest NOT.
2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
29th Aug 2007 1:06 am
tadpole
Member Since: 30 Oct 2010
Location: sheffield
Posts: 5
can you help me with the wiring route for my g4 roof rack with spots
20th Nov 2010 1:46 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2697
NasherHeaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
20th Nov 2010 6:22 pm
tadpole
Member Since: 30 Oct 2010
Location: sheffield
Posts: 5
many thanks nasher ,looks like we are going to be sorted thanks for the thread
cheers paul
21st Nov 2010 5:51 pm
Andrew Hebron
Member Since: 16 Jan 2009
Location: Teddington
Posts: 501
drivesafe wrote:
I think you will find Rally cars put the lights on the front for both aerodynamics and to keep the centre of gravity as low as possible.
Er, not really. They weigh all and aerodynamics is not a big issue especially on gravel events.
The key difference is that when rallying you know there's a reasonably good road / track and all you need to do is point the car at it and try and spot corners. When you're off road you need more information to decide what route to take / spot landmarks / etc. Compare the difference of drivesafe to me the other weekend!!:
Click image to enlarge
The bonnet pods are close to being at the eye line of the driver and are good enough...one drawback though is "puddles" of blackness where the road drops away below the lightbeams. I guess roof-mounted spots would help with this as they could spread downwards more.Andrew
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But there are plenty of D2's and RR's around that have lights fitted.
2006 Zermatt Silver TDV6 'SE' Auto, Mantec sump guard, Frontrunner roofrack, Lightforce 140s, split charge system and... a Jetboil.
yep, different lights give different results, but all give some 'bounce' to some extent
all and aerodynamics is not a big issue especially on gravel events.
