skipyskiphire wrote:

For what they're worth, these are my observations/opinions for the dreaded, intermittent 'Water in Fuel' warning when there is clearly NO water in the fuel.

I opted for the 'Replacement Fuel Filter Housing with Water Sensor Wire Repair Kit', from JGS 4x4.
This is the part that the Fuel Filter screws up into, which incorporates the fuel inlet/outlets and the Water in Fuel Sensor and Wiring.
If you are getting the above warning AND there is no water in the Fuel Filter, then it is more likely that THIS is the part that you need, rather than the probe that fits onto the bottom of the Fuel Filter (However, note my 'Two weeks later' comments towards the end of this post).

I class myself as just above novice and I warn you, that IMHO, this is quite a difficult job and not for the faint hearted, as it seems to me as if Land Rover attached the Fuel Filter Housing and metal bracket to the chassis and then built the rest of the car around it!
I managed to do it without completely removing the metal bracket that holds the Fuel Filter Housing in place and without dropping the crossmember…… It ‘may’ be easier to do either or both of the above, but either way, space is limited, and it is fiddly.

I would strongly recommend using a 7mm Ratchet Spanner and you may need a telescopic magnet tool for retrieving any lost screws (that’s me being pessimistic from my experience).

Once you have access to the Fuel Filter, disconnect the two wiring plugs (the larger one from the wiring loom and the smaller one from the probe fitted to the bottom of the Fuel Filter).
Some may differ in opinion, but I found it easier to remove both the Fuel Filter and the two bolts that hold the metal bracket in place (you can see/feel the bolts in the area just this side of the base of the filter), as doing so gives you a few more valuable mm to play with.

I then bent the top of the metal bracket (which holds the Fuel Filter Housing in place) down slightly and used the 7mm ratchet spanner to undo the three self-tapping screws which hold the top of the Fuel Filter Housing to the metal bracket, being careful not to drop the screws (if you do, curse and use the magnet to poke around inside the crossmember gaps below the base of the metal bracket).

There are two Fuel Pipes attached to the top of the Fuel Filter Housing, and you need to squeeze a certain soft rubbery part of the fitting to release the clip whilst gently pulling the fitting away from the housing. The nearest one is simple enough, but the rear one is a bit hit and miss, just keep squeezing whilst pulling until you find that soft spot........ The Filter Housing should now lift out.

The 7mm screws that fit into the top of the housing are self-tapping rather than fine threaded, so re-fitting them into the new housing can be 'trying' due to the lack of space and thread. I found it marginally easier to 1. Insert the screws into the new housing and then remove them ‘before’ re-fitting the housing (to start the self-tapping process) and 2. Start by replacing the nearest screw first (to line up the holes) and then work back to the middle one and then the rear one, for which I used a tiny spot of grease to hold the screw into the spanner, otherwise you risk dropping it..... again!

Replace the Fuel Pipes by sliding them back onto the fitting until you feel a reassuring click. Start with the rear one, which again, is more difficult than the nearer.

Replace the two bolts that secure the metal bracket in place, note that at the rear right hand bottom corner of the metal bracket, there is a lip that must be slotted over the lip on the chassis to 1. hold the rear of the bracket in place and 2. enable the two bolt holes to line up. If you look up from underneath the car in this area, you can see what I mean.

Replace the Fuel Filter and re-connect the two wiring plugs.

At this point, I turned the ignition on and off two or three times, to prime the Fuel Filter, checked for leaks, found none, and started the engine....... Woof…… Sorted!

*******************************

Two weeks later and touch wood, all was well. So, I took a closer look at the old Fuel Filter Housing to see if I could ascertain what was wrong with it.

The wiring plugs both looked sound and clean, and the four wires enter a unit that fits on the top of the Fuel Filter Housing. Again, the wiring looks sound, with good continuity from the plugs to the sealed unit.
The unit itself is well sealed and inaccessible. I prised/cut it open, and it contains a circuit board.
This unit is attached to the top of the Fuel Filter Housing and held in place with one TX20 screw. This screw also secures an earth connection, which in turn connects to a spring wire that connects to the top of the metal Fuel Filter when it is screwed tightly in place. It is rudimentary but functional.

I did note that the earth connection (as described above) was slightly corroded on both the top and the underside and as such, continuity between the metal spring and the connector was a tad intermittent. As such, this 'may', I repeat 'may' be the problem and all could be cleaned with emery paper and contact cleaner.
However, if the fault lies within the sealed circuit board, that's it and you will need the new part.

Personally, for the sake of £62 or so, the time involved and because it is (touch wood) proven, I would replace the Fuel Filter Housing, but if you like working under cars, cleaning the earth connector, spring wire and screw might be worth a go and let us know if it works long term!