Member Since: 28 Jun 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 92
Front belt tensioner pulley
Hi all, I have noticed a squeaking noise from the engine bay which started off only at idle, but these days can now be heard over the whole rev range. I can also hear a sort of minor grinding noise in the same area.
I believe it to be the bearing for the belt tensioner. However, I just wanted to check, should it be vibrating back and forth at all? My gut feeling is no. You can hear a vibrating noise, and it occurs all the time. I'm guessing maybe the bearing is off balance causing it to constantly move back and forth.
Wow, 5 1/2 years since my front tensioner failed on the old D3, I remember it well. The tensioner does move quite a lot with the engine running, so if it's still squeaking I think your bearing is still intact, but probably dry. Mine stopped making any noise once the rollers completely failed, and it the tensioner wheel looked off centre as you can see in the photos on that thread from 2010. I had the same problem on my current D4 recently, and the tensioner was again causing the problem - an easy component to change once you get the fan off (it may be possible to change the tensioner from underneath without removing the fan?)
1st Oct 2015 8:11 pm
Roob
Member Since: 28 Jun 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 92
Cheers for the write up in that thread, it was very helpful! I'm not sure whats more work, taking the fan out or dropping the D44 skid plates underneath!
The vibration looks to be a little more violent that I am happy with (to be fair though, I have nothing to compare to), but the only thing that could cause it is the bearing, so hopefully with a new bearing I will be able to see if there is any difference. If there's no difference then at least I know it's normal.
I'm going to call a few garages to see if they can squeeze me in to get it changed next week as it seems like a quick job, and I'm not convinced I can get it done myself in good time without making a hash of it. Lacking a few tools to make it an easy job.
I will be sure to ask the garage just to change the bearing, as the tensioner arm itself is probably all ok.
It's 110000 miles, so I think it's done reasonably well to last this long!
Once you've got yourself some viscous scanners taking the fan out is a 5 minute job
You can t really acces it from underneath in any case
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Definitely change the whole tensioner, not just the bearing. They cost about £50, and as Wyn said, the tensioner part can wear too
(I only changed the bearing in the original post because the tensioner wasn't in stock at my local dealer and I needed the car at 4 am the next day!)Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
1st Oct 2015 11:18 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2344
There is no need to take the viscous fan off at all, and the tensioner can be accessed much more easily from underneath, just by taking the small panel off, fwd of the sump plate. If you need to change the upper fixed roller assy too, that can also be done while the aux belt is de tensioned and slipped off the crank pulley. I changed both together @ 60 odd k miles, as the bearings had play in them,but had not reached the terminal stage D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
2nd Oct 2015 12:09 am
Roob
Member Since: 28 Jun 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 92
Hmm, all very valid points!
As the 'vibrating' I am seeing appears to be normal operation, or "flutter" as described by Dave T on ridgeback_moor's guide, I am inclined to pick up a 36mm viscous fan spanner, and the whole tensioner assembly as advised. It does look like an easy fix once the fan is out of the way. I was a bit worried initially as I am planning to take it off road in a week, and didn't want any known points of failure to spoil my day .
I am going to avoid doing it from underneath, as I have a D44 front and transmission guard fitted which weighs a ton, and I'm not a fan of trying to remove or refit them at any time .
Member Since: 28 Jun 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 92
All done!
I picked up a spare tensioner for £77 from my local Land Rover parts counter. Got a 36mm spanner, and made up a locking tool. All went smoothly. No more squeak.
The old tensioner was starting to separate at an angle, and the bearing was dry / rough, but still intact.
I found that the bolt for the tensioner should be torqued to 7nm, but I have probably gone a few lb/ft above that. I can't see this causing any obvious problems, but would like to hear what everyone else did.
Lastly, it did have a minor rattle when I first started up after changing, but I can only guess that it everything settling, or a normal cold diesel sound that I just haven't noticed before!
Thanks for all the help.
2nd Oct 2015 3:43 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20837
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Well worth checking the other so called tensioner pulley and the idler pulley, also good idea to fit new belt as well, that way all bases covered.
2nd Oct 2015 4:09 pm
Roob
Member Since: 28 Jun 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 92
Sorry, I meant 7 lb/ft, not Nm. Although even that seemed low to me too.
Turns out I was also looking at figures for a TD6 L322 RR :S. I'll pay more attention next time.
I put it on reasonably tight using the torque wrench. When I switched back to my normal ratchet, I couldn't make it any tighter, so I am happy it is tight enough.
All belts were changed about 13k miles ago, so should be good for a while. Everything else seemed ok when I poked around. I'll keep an ear out for them, but at least I know how to get to them now.
Last edited by Roob on 2nd Oct 2015 4:13 pm. Edited 1 time in total
2nd Oct 2015 4:11 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20837
Member Since: 28 Jun 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 92
Sounds good to me! As one mechanic I know has put it "We just wang them up as tight as we can by hand". Seems to have worked for most things!
Bit sad, I've created a video of before and after for reference purposes. Someone might find it useful!
It was good to be able to see the difference it has made.
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(it may be possible to change the tensioner from underneath without removing the fan?)
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